73 Cuda-no fluid to rear brakes

[YellowstoneYeti]

I've got a 73 Cuda that I have had since I was a teenager. I made it into a nice ride and then life got in the way and she went into storage. Fast forward 30 years and I'm finally getting around to working on it again. My present project is the brakes. I have basically replaced or rebuilt the entire front disc/rear drum stock setup. New master cylinder, lines, hoses, calipers, discs, etc. My problem is that I cannot get any fluid to the rear wheels. When I put the new lines on, I pulled the stock proportioning valve apart and cleaned/inspected it. All the o-rings, gaskets, etc. were in good shape so I did not replace them. Even with the rear line removed, I can't even get a drip while pressing the brake pedal. If I loosen the lines from the mc to the proportioning valve, they will leak, so I'm getting pressure from the mc. I suspect the proportioning valve is bad? Did I miss something when I was in there? Searched the internet and can't find a stock replacement. I found this one on ebay-http://www.ebay.com/itm/390486260576?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Has anyone used one of these with success or failure? I know about the Wilwood adjustable but would like to remain as close to stock as possible for now. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

[bc3j]

Maybe the piston in your original distribution block is off center blocking flow to rear. Might be able to work backwards from the rear loosing fittings looking for fluid flow until you find the point where you get a flow.

 

[704406]

I think bcj3 is correct, the distribution block will slide over to block the outlet of either front or back brakes if you had a failure of a line. So make sure the piston is in the middle or no fluid will flow. I think you can push the piston back by hand. look for the small "pin" sticking out of the block. Good luck Ken

 

[all original]

Do not buy a reproduction brass proportioning valve, they simply do not work! I have two new ones and I ended up buying a used one off of ebay and rebuilt it.

 

[AUSTA]

I've got a 73 Cuda that I have had since I was a teenager. I made it into a nice ride and then life got in the way and she went into storage. Fast forward 30 years and I'm finally getting around to working on it again. My present project is the brakes. I have basically replaced or rebuilt the entire front disc/rear drum stock setup. New master cylinder, lines, hoses, calipers, discs, etc. My problem is that I cannot get any fluid to the rear wheels. When I put the new lines on, I pulled the stock proportioning valve apart and cleaned/inspected it. All the o-rings, gaskets, etc. were in good shape so I did not replace them. Even with the rear line removed, I can't even get a drip while pressing the brake pedal. If I loosen the lines from the mc to the proportioning valve, they will leak, so I'm getting pressure from the mc. I suspect the proportioning valve is bad? Did I miss something when I was in there? Searched the internet and can't find a stock replacement. I found this one on ebay-http://www.ebay.com/itm/390486260576?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Has anyone used one of these with success or failure? I know about the Wilwood adjustable but would like to remain as close to stock as possible for now. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Do you have the brass delay block under the driver door area it is to delay the rear brakes so they come on a moment after the front discs that can also jam.

 

[YellowstoneYeti]

So, I would just need to pull or push this pin in the opposite direction to center it? Does the system need to be full of fluid and bled to keep it centered? How exactly do I know when it is centered?

I have fluid to the proportioning valve, both front brake are getting fluid, but nothing to the rear out of the proportioning valve. I do not have a separate delay block. It is the cast iron valve used on 73 and newer. Thanks for the heads up on the brass blocks.

 

[all original]

If the valve is slid too one side your brake light should be on in the dash. You can sometimes get the valve to move back by opening a line or bleeder on the opposite side and push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. You can sometimes actually feel the valve move when you do this.

 

[Cudakiller70]

Have you tried this place yet? Might help you figure it out?
1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Valve Rebuild | Muscle Car Research LLC
check this page out for more info links
New Mopar Brake Valve Kit and Rebuild Instructions | Muscle Car Research LLC
Good luck