74 Cuda camber maxing out before 0

[JedIEG]

My 74 Cuda has had its suspension aligned professionally but camber is maxed out at ~ -5.5 degrees passenger and -2 degrees driver from what I have measured at home. The guy I took it to said that the camber was the best he could do because of the deflection in the frame caused by the car's age. My concern is for the passenger side tire which seems to be wearing on the inside rather quickly.
Has any one else experienced this kind of alignment problem or knows a way to fix it?

*(all suspension pieces are stock)

 

[moparleo]

I think somebody is blowing smoke at you. The camber settings you are giving would almost require something in the front suspension to be damaged. Caster is usually the biggest problem. There are many companies like C.A.P, Hotchkiss, Magnum Force and others who make front end components like longer upper control arms, designed to allow more adjustment of camber and caster. Our cars have no frame in the conventional sense, body on frame. Ours are actually intergrated to the body, that is why it is called a uni-body, one piece. -5.5 degrees is severe, tilting the top of the wheel inwards.
Negative camber is good if you are making sharp turns but is hard on tire wear. Did the shop give you a print out of your alignment ? What did you use at home to give you these measurements?
In order of tire wearing angles is #1 Toe-in #2 Camber #3 is Caster.The suspension components like the idler arm, inner & outer tie rods, strut rod bushings, upper & lower control arm bushings, ball joints, steering box etc. must be in good condition or the alignment will go back out of specs as soon as you drive down the street.

 

[Adrian Worman]

Mopar Leo is, as usual I might add, dead right on all counts, you must have all joints, bushes, bearings, even tyres, etc in perfect order before attempting any alignment.
One thing that may help asssuming all else is cool is the offset UCA bushings from Moog

 

[moparleo]

I forgot that one. Great when you don't need much more camber or caster, definitely a lot lower in cost. Thanks Adrian

 

[HPP]

camber is maxed out at ~ -5.5 degrees passenger and -2 degrees driver from what I have measured at home.

Wow, no wonder your tires are wearing. For a street car, you should try for zero to -1 degree TOTAL camber on either sides.

Caster you may want to get up around 3-5*, but certainly not camber.

Tell you alignment tech you want 3 to 5* positive caster, 0 to -1* camber and .0625 to .125 total toe IN. This shoudl improve the road feel and reduce the tire wear substantially.