AAR Rear brakes

[Obash]

I posted previously about sticking rear brakes on my AAR. Today I tried to bleed the Rt Rear brake cylinder. This is the one that has been sticking after driving a couple of miles ( car comes to complete stop without using the brake pedal). I opened the bleeder screw, attached hose to it and pumped the brake pedal several times. Nothing came out the bleeder but when I took the cap off the master cylinder the fluid in the front reservoir was a nasty milky yellow color. I then siphoned the rear brake "chamber", refilled it and tried again, Same issue-yellow/milky fluid in the chamber. took the bleeder screw out completely then pumped the brake and not a drop came out of the wheel cylinder. how do I proceed from this point?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Undo the line to the brake cylinder & see if fluid comes out , if yes replace the cylinder , if not undo the line into the flex hose to the diff & see if you get fluid ther , if not go to the proprtioning valve & see if you get fluid there

 

[moparleo]

Also determine what contaminated the fluid. You nay end up replacing every component that uses a rubber seal. Eg wheel cylinders, calipers all 3 flex hoses, master cylinder, rebuild prop valve. Replace/flush out steel lines completely. Personally. the brake system is the most important system on the car, Safety wise.
Preventative maintenance. Star with a new, not rebuilt master cylinder and just replace the complete system including hard lines.
Replacement pre-bent lines are available for nominal money compared to what a brake system failure can cost.
The car is over 50 years old with an unknown history.
Replace and keep fresh/new brake fluid in the system. No wasted time diagnosing something that you can't see into.
Start new and with peace of mind/safety.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The above information is good. To start. Drum drum, drum disc or other system.

car comes to complete stop without using the brake pedal

It could be a shoe or caliper hanging up or the paring brake hanging up( Not adjusted correctly). The rubber brake hose or hoses might be bad inside and act as a check valve.
Yes I would say you need to do a complete brake system rebuild. It will be a lot easer then trying to fix a multitude of issues. The use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.

 

[Challenger RTA]

master cylinder

Just a passing thought. If it is original see about getting it rebuilt. Or hang onto it if you do get a reman. Use something else for a core.

 

[Obash]

Just a passing thought. If it is original see about getting it rebuilt. Or hang onto it if you do get a reman. Use something else for a core.

It is not the original. Doesn’t look anything like any of the AAR pics I’ve looked at.

 

[Obash]

Also determine what contaminated the fluid. You nay end up replacing every component that uses a rubber seal. Eg wheel cylinders, calipers all 3 flex hoses, master cylinder, rebuild prop valve. Replace/flush out steel lines completely. Personally. the brake system is the most important system on the car, Safety wise.
Preventative maintenance. Star with a new, not rebuilt master cylinder and just replace the complete system including hard lines.
Replacement pre-bent lines are available for nominal money compared to what a brake system failure can cost.
The car is over 50 years old with an unknown history.
Replace and keep fresh/new brake fluid in the system. No wasted time diagnosing something that you can't see into.
Start new and with peace of mind/safety.

Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations as to which brake line kit works best? Stainless steel or original type?

 

[mrmopar340]

Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations as to which brake line kit works best? Stainless steel or original type?

Stainless is one and done. The ones I put under my car will outlast me.