AC "un-delete" on a 73 challenger with a 360

[bobs73challenger]

Hi everybody,

My name is Bob, I'm new here, and my 73 Challenger is being shipped from MA down to NC to me this weekend!

One of the first things I want to do to it is put AC back into the car and I'm scratching my head on what I need.

So here's the short history. Best I can tell, car was originally a 318 with factory air. At some point, someone put in a 360 and took out AC.

It gets hot down here in NC, and I plan to drive to car on a pretty regular basis and AC really is going to be a must for me.

Dash still has vents and the control box is still setup for AC, so I guess I'm trying to figure out what I'll need under the hood.

Best I can tell, I have a couple of options: RV2 or a Sanden style compressor. I think I've convinced myself Sanden is the way to go (lighter, robs less power), but I can't figure out which Sanden will work with a 360.

I'm betting its also going to need a condenser and evaporator, but some of the under-dash stuff might still be there (I'm ripping that off next week).

Any advice at all on where to start with AC parts? I'm not afraid of installation, as I've installed AC compressors before, I'm just worried about buying the wrong part

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Bob in Raleigh

 

[ramenth]

You could always go the boneyard and grab the compressor and brackets off a late '80's, early '90's pickup. The downfall to that is the rear compressor bracket can't be mounted unless the boss is in the intake and the thermostat/housing it offset to the side. If you could grab the intake off an M-body cop car, or the truck is a 4bbl you could grab the intake, too. Edelbrock also makes an intake that has the boss with the offset T-stat/housing. You'll have to have lines made.

You can also call Classic Auto Air and check out their conversion kit. I believe there are a few other vendors out there offering a conversion, too.

Depends on what your pocketbook allows.

 

[moparleo]

Ramenth has the right idea. An aftermarket a/c kit will work much better than the original factory a/c and in the end will be comparable in price. Another company would be Vintage Air.
http://www.vintageair.com/2012catalog/2012 VintageAir Catalog Final WEB (Page 30).pdf

 

[stu in wichita]

My situation is exactly the same as Bob's. Classic Auto Air makes two kits specifically for E-Bodies:

-One kit has pretty much everything for under the hood - compressor, condenser, hoses, engine brackets. That's the one I'm looking at.
http://www.classicautoair.com/MOPAR_OEM_Parts_Engine.html

-The other kit is similar, but doesn't include the condenser. If yours is still there, you can save some $$
http://www.classicautoair.com/MOPAR_Sanden_Compressor_Conversion.html

Plan B for me is to pull everything out from under the dash and install one of their complete systems. They are kind of generic, but compact enough that you can tuck them in real nice.

I've installed CAA's systems before and they have top notch people and products. I like their cable control units, which Vintage Air doesn't offer.

Whatever direction you go, posts lots of pics along the way.

-Stu

 

[74 challenger]

YES go with the after market set up because it will cost the same in the long run. Redid my ac and still working on it.Figured the cost would be the same if I bought a after market set up so learn from my mistake and I live in S Carolina .

 

[bobs73challenger]

Allrite, so I'm looking at the Sanden SD7H compressor listed on BPE's website. They sell the matching bracket for the engine.

Will the current evaporator work with this setup?

Also, a friend of mine has a condenser out of a 72 challenger that he's willing to give me. I know BPE sells brand new condensers that will work with this setup, but would the 72 condenser work with the new compressor?

I wasn't sure if mixing and matching R12 and R134A components would even work.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[roadman5312]

You will need a expansion valve and drier for 134 . Also the correct oil, I use ester oil, which if you go with the Sanden compressor that what it comes with. The factory condenser and evaporator will work fine in a r134 system. Make sure you use a 6 or 7 blade cooling fan, or better yet electric.

 

[moparleo]

A/c is not a cheap system and instead of trying to mix 40 year old parts with new, you will know that all of the parts are new and compatible . R134a is not as efficient as the now discontinued R12. The new systems compensate for the differences in pressures, 0-rings and hoses. Also the stock blower fan on Mopars don't move very much air. Go with either the Classic or Vintage systems. In the end you will spend about the same amount of money as a stock system and the new systems work a LOT better than the stock a/c that these cars came with.

Your cooling system must also be in top condition as the condenser is going to block some of the air flow to the radiator and when the a/c is on the engine will have more load on it which will also raise temps. The heat of the radiator will be transferred to the condenser raising the pressures and lowering the cooling ability of the system.
Electric fans are the way to go as they move air through the condensor even when you are at a stop.

 

[joekamm]

I had a similar situation with my 340 Cuda. I went to a junkyard that had a mid 70's Volare with a V8 and air. My 340 has Edelbrock performer with Holley Avenger so I did not expect a perfect match for brackets, but I took every thing from the firewall forward from the Volare, all braces and brackets. I used the rotary vane compressor ( not a Sanden) as a core at auto zone telling them it was from 1976 Volare. i don't remember the price for compressor but it was reasonable. Bought a CCA hose and drier kit and the biggest parallel flow condensor that would fit in front of radiator. i had the hose ends crimped on at a shop that also brazed on the proprietary Mopar fittings for the hose ends. It works great and it was a bit cheaper than all aftermarket, though the kits sold work well also. There is an engine bay pic on my other post, sorry I couldn't imbed from Ipad

 

[roadman5312]

R134a is as efficient as R12 if set up correctly. The molecules of R134 are smaller than R12 hence they need to be squeezed tighter at the expansion valve (oriface) to produce the same or better cooling. Also R134 won't push the mineral oil that was used in R12 systems, that's why you must use a synthetic lighter oil, such as pag or ester. Lastly the desiccant used in R12 driers is not compatible with R134. When I do a retrofit I always achieve as good if not better vent temps than R12. A auxiliary electric cooling fan is always a good idea because R134 systems run higher pressures which is directly tied to airflow across the condenser.