Adding disk brake qestion

[asaprtse]

I have a 1970 Challenger RT SE with factory drum brakes...

I bought factory Disk brakes with included Spindles, calipers, disks, backing plates, new bearings, races all put together and ready to install...
I also bought a factory brake booster 18628 numbers on booster...

1.. I need a part number for MASTER cylinder. I know I won't find the correct number as I have been reading I WANT on though.... One that will fit faculty booster
2.. ALSO proportioning valve for disk brake set up
3... ALSO do I need any brake lines?

((PICTURES)) of the set a up would be great! ( proportioning valve, lines)

PLEASE any help would be GREAT!

 

[EV2RTSE]

A couple of aftermarket master cylinders that 'kind of sort of' resemble the original 2229171 are
Raybestos MC36283 and Centric 130.63055. Paint them and the booster black as original and will look good unless you're out to win a judged show or something.

Also, for another option, Billl Rolik has some Bendix master cylinders that resemble the 71-74 unit.

Master Cylinder 71-74 B-Body/E-Body, 5 BRAKES - SERVICE, 3461176 - N.O.S., Reproduction, and Replacement Chrysler Parts

www.billrolikenterprises.com

Have not had good luck with the reproduction disc proportioning valve / metering block setups (leaks). If you can track down an original, there are rebuild kits available for the valves here- (Kelsey Hayes for 1970).

Home | Muscle Car Research LLC

musclecarresearch.com

 

[70chall440]

You are just doing front disc's right?

 

[moparleo]

Replacing brake lines is a great idea on a 50 year old car even if you weren't doing a brake conversion. Avoid s/s for the rigid lines as they are hard to get a good seal on. Do go with braided lines for the 2 fronts and one rear. This helps o get a firmer pedal as the hose does not swell up under pressure.
Was this a commercial assembled brake kit sold through a company? If so, they should be able to supply the rest of the parts or give you a source for them.
Do it right. The most important system on any car is the brakes.
Reference your Factory Service Manual since you say it is a factory system. That makes it much easier to get things right.

 

[Challenger RTA]

You are going to replace all you lines right? Just want to say that. use stainless steel or copper nickle.I prefer copper nickle. what year factory disc setup? top one is a a 11 70 build date original on 71. bottom is a re manufactured.If this is the setup you have. top line goes into back of master cylinder front line goes into front of master cylinder.the smaller block is for the front lines.Before you bleed system pull the reset out on the front block and hold. You might want to use DOT 5.1.

 

[asaprtse]

You are just doing front disc's right?

Yes sir!

 

[340challconvert]

Something to be aware of!

There were two different sets of brake lines for the 70 Challenger
Early cars used a two piece brake line to the rear of the car with a proportioning valve under the driver's side frame (under the driver's seat)
As shown above, they eliminated the under the frame valve and incorporated it into the metering valves set up (second pic). This now required a one piece front to rear brake line.
As others have suggested; changed the brake lines for safety. Stainless steel is a pain to keep from leaking; I used the standard, 2 piece version after ordering the SS version.(Inline tube- nice fitting)
I also used the Centric Unit above and Centric rotors and maintained the original booster.
I still had the two piece rotors that were original to my A66 on the car (original disc brake car); Centric replacements are one piece rotors.

 

[asaprtse]

Something to be aware of!

There were two different sets of brake lines for the 70 Challenger
Early cars used a two piece brake line to the rear of the car with a proportioning valve under the driver's side frame (under the driver's seat)
As shown above, they eliminated the under the frame valve an incorporated it into the metering valves set up (second pic). This now required a one piece front to rear brake line.
As others have suggested; changed the brake lines for safety. Stainless steel is a pain to keep from leaking; I used the standard, 2 piece version after ordering the SS version.(Inline tube- nice fitting)
I also used the Centric Unit above and Centric rotors and maintained the original booster.
I still had the two piece rotors that were original to my A66 on the car (original disc brake car); Centric replacements are one piece rotors.

View attachment 87856

View attachment 87857

I'll have to look under my car...Not sure what have..This is great info! thank you!

 

[asaprtse]

You are going to replace all you lines right? Just want to say that. use stainless steel or copper nickle.I prefer copper nickle. what year factory disc setup? top one is a a 11 70 build date original on 71. bottom is a re manufactured.If this is the setup you have. top line goes into back of master cylinder front line goes into front of master cylinder.the smaller block is for the front lines.Before you bleed system pull the reset out on the front block and hold. You might want to use DOT 5.1.

View attachment 87851

View attachment 87853

I bought Master # 2229171 and booster is 18628... I found front disk brake complete set up off 1971 spindles, rotors, calipers, lines

 

[asaprtse]

You are just doing front disc's right?

Yes just front

 

[70chall440]

Shouldn't be too hard to set that up since they were offered that way. There lots of parts/pieces out there. Get ahold of Dr. Diff (Cass) if you want all new stuff.