As I mentioned before, I got multiple bad repop valves and I couldn't solve my leaking problem until I installed an OEM valve. Spring for an original unit!
Brake Leaks In need of Advice/Suggestions
- Thread starter BriceRoad
- Start date
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Did you try tightening it up?
Steve Blair
Well-Known Member
I realize this thread is really old but thought I would share my experience. I purchased stainless brake lines and could not get them to stop leaking so I replaced the stainless lines with steel and no more leaks. I also installed new front calipers, brake lines, a new brake booster and master cylinder. The car is a 71 Barracuda with 4 wheel disc brakes (rear brake calipers and rotors from Dr Diff on a Dana 60 with no problems). Dr Diff said use the proportioning valve for 4 wheel drum brakes and my 4 wheel disc brakes work great (no leaks, hard brake pedal, car stops straight). I will never use stainless brake line again! I could not stop the leaks!
I have been thinking about what you wrote. I didn't miss it. I am seriously considering buying the one on eBay. I think it is still good but is there a way to restore it and make it look nice? It should be bare metal correct?
I did email In Line Tube and told them what happened. All the guy said was he thinks the valve is bad. However, I didn't explain to him that I bought it brand new from his company (although it was 3-4 years ago). So i did second a second email explaining that. We will see if he offers me a new one but even if he does do I want to trust another valve from In Line Tube?
Did I try to tighten it up? No, I didn't realize that part is just screwed on. I know, duh! I will give that a try. I'm surprised the rep from In Line Tube did not suggest that as well.
Here is a pic of the valve on eBay:
Actually I have been keeping up with the thread as time allows and things happen in case anyone else in the future has the same problem. I totally agree with you. At my age the steel lines will long outlive me. I am selling my SS lines for my Challenger and I think if I had more time then switching to 4 wheel disc is a great solution. The problem for me is I want this car to be drive able for Carlisle. I would need the drum proportioning valve for my car which is long gone. I think it is an original drum brake car but I am not sure. It has had front disc for as long as I have owned it (23 years). I imagine the drum brake version is easy to find at the swap meets but it is the time factor.
Steve Blair
Well-Known Member
Hin Phil,
Dr Diff has the proportioning valve you need to convert to 4 wheel disc brakes (the proportioning valve is the same one used for 4 wheel drum brakes and its new). He also has the rear disc brake setup you need and the cables that work for your emergency brake setup (you just need to measure the length of the cables you have so you get the correct length cables). Super easy conversion through Dr Diff!
Dr Diff has the proportioning valve you need to convert to 4 wheel disc brakes (the proportioning valve is the same one used for 4 wheel drum brakes and its new). He also has the rear disc brake setup you need and the cables that work for your emergency brake setup (you just need to measure the length of the cables you have so you get the correct length cables). Super easy conversion through Dr Diff!
Steve, that is a good suggestion but I really want to take my car to Carlisle and I would never be able to order the parts and get it done in time so I just want to fix what is there for now.
Update: Once I mentioned to the customer service guy from In Line Tube that he should do something for me since his part was bad right out of the bag he ghosted me. Well, I will be ghosting his company for any future purchases. If the valve had lasted even a month I wouldn't have mentioned it but right out of the box is totally unacceptable. So I was going to order the used original part shown above and I contacted the seller on eBay and asked him some questions about it. I just wanted to be sure it was still good since the price would be $200 with shipping. The seller, who seemed honest, checked it out and he found that the low fluid switch was rusted in position and then he removed the valve from eBay. I told him about my troubles and he even gave me some suggestions. So that part is no longer an option.
Next, I tried tightening the top part of the valve but I couldn't get it any tighter.
After thinking things over I decided to just order another reproduction valve and new steel lines from SS Tubes. Hopefully they come in before Carlisle.
Update: Once I mentioned to the customer service guy from In Line Tube that he should do something for me since his part was bad right out of the bag he ghosted me. Well, I will be ghosting his company for any future purchases. If the valve had lasted even a month I wouldn't have mentioned it but right out of the box is totally unacceptable. So I was going to order the used original part shown above and I contacted the seller on eBay and asked him some questions about it. I just wanted to be sure it was still good since the price would be $200 with shipping. The seller, who seemed honest, checked it out and he found that the low fluid switch was rusted in position and then he removed the valve from eBay. I told him about my troubles and he even gave me some suggestions. So that part is no longer an option.
Next, I tried tightening the top part of the valve but I couldn't get it any tighter.
After thinking things over I decided to just order another reproduction valve and new steel lines from SS Tubes. Hopefully they come in before Carlisle.
Just want to put an end to this story. The parts came in from SS Tubes before Carlisle. I got everything installed and finally there was no more brake fluid on the floor!! I bled the brakes after the install but upon a test drive I noticed every now and then the brake pedal would go all the way to the floor. I bled it 2 more times and each time the frequency of the brake pedal going to the floor increased. I suspected that my 20 year old master cylinder had given up the ghost. I am not sure what happened as it worked fine before I took the car off the road. No way I could take it to Carlisle so I took my truck. I picked up a brand new master cylinder at Carlisle. I bled it and installed it last week. I finally have my car back. I drove my car 65 miles to my friends house in north Jersey. I made it there and back with no problems except it started getting a little hot in traffic and some other bugs turned up but at least now I can drive the car locally without worrying. Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help. It is much appreciated.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the follow up. Big or small business have failed because they didn't follow through with a plan,plans can change.
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