AMD vs Dynacorn

[batman7349]

Quite a shortage on available AMD parts right now. I’ve found almost everything I need from Dynacorn what kind of luck is everybody having with Dynacorn? I also have read the last batch of AMD stampingsvwere not up to par…

 

[Carolinachallen]

I definately prefer AMD, but I have been using some Dynacorn pieces lately. I can't say that I've been unhappy with any of their products. Sometimes you just gotta work with what's available.

 

[enforcer505]

Dynacorn: I have used full quarters, full rear car sect (w6000 i think its call), valance brackets and various other pieces. Everything fit great! no issues and the metal is very weldable.

AMD: I ve used rear deck filler panel- was made 3/4inch to short. had to cut and modify. Used the full front floor section- the width was off by again 3/4 of an inch. had to cut and modify. mind u the gauge of steel seemed thicker than dynacorn.

I think they both come from the same factory just different dies and specs for making them. from what I have heard from many dealers. my 2 cents.

 

[EW1BH27]

The Dynacorn 6000WT (rear seat/trunk floor) was a godsend for my car, fit perfectly.

 

[Cuda416]

Rather than start a new thread with identical title/topic, I'll try asking here first.

Looking for input regarding the firewalls and cowl side panel fitment. AMD is out of stock on firewalls and my AMD cowl panels are really warped.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I have used, AMD, Dynacorn, Goodmark, Spectre, and Sherman panels. I think most of all of them come from the same overseas manufacturer and then just put their name and part #'s on them.

 

[Cuda416]

I have used, AMD, Dynacorn, Goodmark, Spectre, and Sherman panels. I think most of all of them come from the same overseas manufacturer and then just put their name and part #'s on them.

The cowl side panel I bought a couple years ago is just horrible compared to the rest of the the AMD sheet metal I have (damn near a whole car, lol). Is this simply what people are having to work with? I'm hoping there is a chance AMD retooled and these aren't like this anymore.

Also, I know someone with the exact same part in the exact same condition.

 

[Xcudame]

I would make a guess that any sheet metal you buy is going to need 10 to 40 hours prep time (reshaping, trimming, sanding and applying more primer) just to get it to fit correctly. Some are worse that others. There are some folks here that have done amazing things using multiple body panels to fix up their cars.

 

[Cuda416]

I would make a guess that any sheet metal you buy is going to need 10 to 40 hours prep time (reshaping, trimming, sanding and applying more primer) just to get it to fit correctly. Some are worse that others. There are some folks here that have done amazing things using multiple body panels to fix up their cars.

I am aware that things aren't expected to fit perfectly out of the box, however every other part I've gotten from AMD at the very least is able to be placed into it's respective spot and it will "fit".

The inner cowl panels shown above are the only pieces I've seen that literally require something akin to stomping on them get into the general shape they are supposed to be. As mentioned, the dynacorn parts are arrow straight, but seem "thinner".

 

[Xcudame]

I think the inner cowl panels have to be one of the hardest panels to replace. Others please correct me if I'm wrong, but they connect to so many other pieces - cowl, firewall, inner fender, frame, etc. And the door hinges connect there with additional bracing. I appaulde you for replacing them and fixing up another E-Body. There's been many a Mopar I passed on because it was just too much work for me.
I wonder if newer panels are better from AMD. Wouldn't hurt to call them, tell them what you encountered and if they haven't changed the panels, they might in the future based on your feedback.

 

[Cuda416]

I think the inner cowl panels have to be one of the hardest panels to replace. Others please correct me if I'm wrong, but they connect to so many other pieces - cowl, firewall, inner fender, frame, etc. And the door hinges connect there with additional bracing. I appaulde you for replacing them and fixing up another E-Body. There's been many a Mopar I passed on because it was just too much work for me.
I wonder if newer panels are better from AMD. Wouldn't hurt to call them, tell them what you encountered and if they haven't changed the panels, they might in the future based on your feedback.

Thanks, the car is rough for sure.

'70 Vert - waited long enough...

A phone call is probably in order, though I know for a fact I'm not the only person who's dealt with these.

 

[Bahboo]

Cuda416 and Xcudame, I can definitely relate. I just recently finished the right side cowl panel on my 70 Chall and just started welding in the left side today. I bought the same AMD panels that Cuda416 bought, and, like Xcudame noted, there's always some tweaking that needs to be done. But I do like AMD's metal thickness, particularly in this structural area, so I forked out nearly double the cost compared to other brands. Because the metal around my door hinge mounts were good, rather than go through the difficulty in replacing the entire side cowl panel (drilling out spot welds and dealing with multiple metal layers and risking positional shift, I cut the AMD panel in half and butt/spot welded in the new piece. At times I felt like a ball turret gunner in a B-17 while welding in under the dash...very cramped, especially with the welding helmet. As I've been welding in new replacement pieces, I try and leave as much of the original EDP(?) on the new panel seams, while at the same time, I cover the original, exposed metal with Eastwood Encapsulator Plus. Then I take a small, modified wire-wheel, put it in a hand-held drill, and place it in the spot/plug weld holes to reveal fresh metal for welding. That way the encapsulator coating between the two welded pieces gives a little more rust protection. I didn't put seam sealer in between the panels because most of it melts or is chemically altered from the weld heat and just makes a mess. Granted, the encapsulator melts/alters as well, so I may be throwing rocks at my own glass house. In my humble opinion, the seam sealer between panels is a two-edged sword. Yes, it quiets potential squeaks, etc., but it creates an environment for rust to form, especially when some of it is melted by plug welds. You can see in the pic of the ribbon of rust/rot around the right side cowl panel. That is what it looked like when I removed the old seam sealer, followed by a big, heavy sigh...three steps forward, two steps back. Wish you all the best in your restoration efforts. Thanks for listening.