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BIG BLOCK DECISION

BSG

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I am searching for an engine for my 71 ebody. After searching all over los angeles I found several different engines to choose from. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between 440 4bb that came out of a 69 charger and a 440 that came out of a 78 motorhome? looking for performance over date code. I believe over time they found ways to make the heads cool and breath better. I'm sure one of you mopar maniacs know the answer. Thanks
 

DrEamer

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The big difference is that the motorhome engine will have lower compression, a cast crank that can only be used with an automatic. None of that matters if you are going to replace the rotating assembly, but in stock form you are giving up some things. I'm sure other will pipe in.
 

Rapidfire

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Go to 440source.com and go to their misc general informational pages, they will tell your more than you want to know about the different years of 440 blocks/heads. Should answer most of your questions.
 

BSG

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Thanks to both of you for answering that’s pretty wild I wouldn’t have thought there was enough bb MOPAR enthusiasts to support a business dedicated to just that. Proving once again how little I know about it. there’s just a huge difference in $ I can get those Rv engines complete with trans carb everything for 600$ 70k or so on most of them and that magnum eng trans 2500 has about 90k. if it were 500$ I’d just jump on the the magnum but 1900 I could have the Rv engine punched out and new cam etc or just throw it in as is I’m building something I can drive around without worrying about it getting scratched or wrecked.
 

fasjac

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Supposedly the later casting blocks were just a bit stronger. I used a 78 block to do a 500 stroker. There are some noticeable differences in the webbing thickness and just overall better technology used on those later blocks .
With that said, I’ve built both early and late blocks that have performed perfectly. I don’t think it matters until you want something well over 500 hp.
JMO
 

Adam

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I agree with all of the above. I generally would not throw in a used engine; it’s just too much work to find out if it’s good enough... but when you rebuild you can get/achieve what you want. I would, and have, rebuilt a 440 from an RV, I used a crank pilot bearing to use a manual transmission behind it. It’s a beast!
Also the RV heads probably have steam/water holes on the deck, this is not a problem, just something to be aware of..
 

BSG

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This is why I ask. all you guys here are just a wealth of great info. Thanks for taking a moment to share it.
 

BSG

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I had figured the accessories would be placed differently and probably has an alt not generator? an a/c pump half the size all stuff i can use my redneck engineering degree on. hopefully it doesn't have a smog pump? Ill have to see it in person fasjac you sound like you been there? is there a legit reason why one can't use the config of the accessory drive off the rv? I just invested in a hydrolic hose crimper. looks like ill get to break it in? unless k member or something has me hunting old brackets down
 

fasjac

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Yea, just take a look, it seems to me the front cover would work ok, I was already going to purchase an aluminum cover anyway.the upper radiator hose needed to be on the passenger side for the old radiator and the cover needed to exit on the driver side for lower hose. Kinda same deal with the intake manifold. It had a few more vacuum T's and connections. I already had an aluminum single plane intake I was going to use. Other than weird brackets for accessories, all good. I think the head casting numbers were 452's which turned out to be really good heads. K member should be just fine unless yours had a hemi.
 
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BSG

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Yea, just take a look, it seems to me the front cover would work ok, I was already going to purchase an aluminum cover anyway.the upper radiator hose needed to be on the passenger side for the old radiator and the cover needed to exit on the driver side for lower hose. Kinda same deal with the intake manifold. It had a few more vacuum T's and connections. I already had an aluminum single plane intake I was going to use. Other than weird brackets for accessories, all good. I think the head casting numbers were 452's which turned out to be really good heads. K member should be just fine unless yours had a hemi.
one can only wish for the hemi
 

MerlinsMopars

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Had a 78 that was from Marshall engines. Reman thru Advance auto. Long block had a forged crank and 452 heads and .060 over. $1498.00 with core. 1 year warranty. They never put the rear main seal in it and I had to tear it back out to install it. They sent me a 500$ check for the warranty. Changed out the cam, rockers and springs and that motor was badass. I told them it was for a 69 roadrunner 4 speed car which was a lil higher rated hp but put it in an a body. I'd have to say the rv motors are ok. You can tell by the crank damper if its cast or forged or just buy the internals you want. Reman can be a good direction tho if you don't want to spend alot.
 

BSG

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Just bought for 400$ I'm gonna have the machine shop do the heads cam & cam bearings and check the rotating Assembly. Worst case I bought a expensive core.
 

stroker BBs

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I am searching for an engine for my 71 ebody. After searching all over los angeles I found several different engines to choose from. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between 440 4bb that came out of a 69 charger and a 440 that came out of a 78 motorhome? looking for performance over date code. I believe over time they found ways to make the heads cool and breath better. I'm sure one of you mopar maniacs know the answer. Thanks
hi ,I'm down in tex. see that you are looking for big block. I happen to be interested in selling my 451 stroker motor in 70cuda. motor just getting broke in. it is a street car. this car just came out in the latest Chrysler Power mag. I will motor and every attached to it. also have dyno sheet. the article states it is putting out 580 horses and 630 ft.pnds. it is a little more than that now. if you like to talk about it more, give me a call. i'll give you all the details and pics. Gary, 210-884-8393
 

Adam

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Just bought for 400$ I'm gonna have the machine shop do the heads cam & cam bearings and check the rotating Assembly. Worst case I bought a expensive core.
If you need an excellent machine shop, try Jim Grubb Motorsports, they are up by Magic Mountain, off I-5 fwy. They did a 408 stroker and a 440 for me.
 

stroker BBs

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Howdy Gary! Welcome to the site.
Sure would like to know what your asking for the 451.
give me a call. I can go over every thing I did on this motor. this is not an average build. did you look at lay out in latest Chrysler Power mag? I built this motor with the best stuff. I may also entertain the sell of the cuda. 210-884-8393
 
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