chickwitha_Cuda
Active Member
#truthNo. it's every girl's dream just to own a cuda.
HA.
Cuda Girl.
#truthNo. it's every girl's dream just to own a cuda.
HA.
Cuda Girl.
Or maybe what you really meant was, Every guy wants a Cuda to just get chicks?Every guy wants a cuda too, not just chicks.
Couldn't stop thinking about you rear end vibrating. No pun intend. Yeah there was! No really.Did you find it? If so what was it? Loose nuts bolts or other?The vibration comes from the rear wheels at speeds of 70mph+ and became pronounced after the installation of the new springs. The wheels have been balanced and it took out some of the vibration, however a full diagnosis will have to wait until I'm ready to replace the entire rear-end. Which will be happening in the next few weeks. Then all parts, nuts and bolts will be removed, examined, and either restored or replaced and reinstalled to spec.
Married one! She even bought, set up and installed her own trickflow heads.Isn't it every man's dream to have a Chick that comes with a Cuda....
I lost two out of three threw out the years. LMAO!Maybe it"s every ckick's dream to have man with a 6pak!
Ditto. To tired and lazy to get one of them back.There are 3 different kinds of 6 paks! At one time I had all 3 at different times
Your car your way. That’s the only way for me.I had drum brakes on the rear of my Lancer. I didn't like how they stopped. I'm running BFGoodrich 275/60 TA Radials on the Cuda as recommended by the performance wheel/tire shop I have worked with for the past 8 years. I was trained to brake by my father who has owned muscle cars since the 1960's, and on the local tracks doing weekend timed runs in my Lancer and my buddy's BRZ. As for the shocks... Do you mean like the new +2" leaf springs, and mounts I mentioned installing as well as the QA1 Tier 3 double adjustable handling shocks?
The vibration comes from the rear wheels at speeds of 70mph+ and became pronounced after the installation of the new springs. The wheels have been balanced and it took out some of the vibration, however a full diagnosis will have to wait until I'm ready to replace the entire rear-end. Which will be happening in the next few weeks. Then all parts, nuts and bolts will be removed, examined, and either restored or replaced and reinstalled to spec.
I'm not looking to be combative or rude here, because I really do feel it is important to hear and acknowledge others who may be more experienced than myself, but I also feel it's imprudent to assume you know the level of experience of another when you 'explain' to them your opinions. How you choose to upgrade/maintain your own car may not be how I choose to handle my own. My knowledge my come from other owners/builders who hold different opinions than you, but that doesn't make their knowledge less than yours, nor the changes I make based on their opinions. It might help the tone of your post to be more suggestive and less lecturing.
Nice pics and story/history. I have one suggestion... the oil pan... desperately needs oil control baffels... the factory non-baffled pan welcomes oil starvation in cornering, acceleration and deceleration. Simple flat steel plates can be welded in front and rear of the sump (a little channeled cut for clearance for the oil pump tube is needed, as well as a small hole for the dip stick). Or else, install the Milodon ProTouring style pan with Milodon pick-up... money well spent. Modifying the factory type pan with internal baffels is the lowest cost best mod for our engines!... and without any hassles with the new headers or k-frame.Update 11/15/22
No time like the WORST time to decide to swap your engine! My 6 week gig is wrapped and the money is gone.
But after scrounging what little together I could, I was able to piece together a serviceable engine! It's gonna take a bit of time to get it all in and running, but only 2 hours after leaving her in the experienced hands of my buddy, he already had the 318 out and on the ground! Now it's time for me to do my part to clean up the wiring in the engine bay and start considering the next move... The remaining items are more expensive bits... A new radiator, AC system, and new wiring harness... None of which can be afforded right now... So this is about to get interesting...
But the good news is every photo looks better and better! I went with a matte black for the block. A lot of people will want to argue with color choice. So let me cover the two most asked questions on my instagram already::
Why not orange? Because it's not a Hemi, and I have enough of a job explaining my engine build to people without giving them the additional "Why is it Hemi orange if it's not a Hemi?"
Why not Chrysler blue? Because the car is teal, and will be eventually painted a darker teal and the Chrysler blue clashes horribly with the current color and will not fair much better if I darken the teal. I'm an artist, I care about color.
While I'm leaving the oil pan gold ((no one can really see it anyhow)) the rest of the engine is all going to be in silvers. Brand new Doug's ceramic coated headers, newly blasted, ported and bladed Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake, and silver painted water pump and timing chain cover. Eventually I want to cover all the hoses/wires in braided steel looms or just replace with braided steel tubing. The end result I want is a very clean black and bright look that will contrast with the blue of the car.
Justin Hunter, if you're reading this:: I need you to explain to me why you connected the windshield washer pump to the smog filter...
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I've been running a set of Doug's headers since the mid-90's. Great choice.Update 11/15/22
No time like the WORST time to decide to swap your engine! My 6 week gig is wrapped and the money is gone.
But after scrounging what little together I could, I was able to piece together a serviceable engine! It's gonna take a bit of time to get it all in and running, but only 2 hours after leaving her in the experienced hands of my buddy, he already had the 318 out and on the ground! Now it's time for me to do my part to clean up the wiring in the engine bay and start considering the next move... The remaining items are more expensive bits... A new radiator, AC system, and new wiring harness... None of which can be afforded right now... So this is about to get interesting...
But the good news is every photo looks better and better! I went with a matte black for the block. A lot of people will want to argue with color choice. So let me cover the two most asked questions on my instagram already::
Why not orange? Because it's not a Hemi, and I have enough of a job explaining my engine build to people without giving them the additional "Why is it Hemi orange if it's not a Hemi?"
Why not Chrysler blue? Because the car is teal, and will be eventually painted a darker teal and the Chrysler blue clashes horribly with the current color and will not fair much better if I darken the teal. I'm an artist, I care about color.
While I'm leaving the oil pan gold ((no one can really see it anyhow)) the rest of the engine is all going to be in silvers. Brand new Doug's ceramic coated headers, newly blasted, ported and bladed Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake, and silver painted water pump and timing chain cover. Eventually I want to cover all the hoses/wires in braided steel looms or just replace with braided steel tubing. The end result I want is a very clean black and bright look that will contrast with the blue of the car.
Justin Hunter, if you're reading this:: I need you to explain to me why you connected the windshield washer pump to the smog filter...
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I’m not gonna lie, that’s a damn cool car. The color and the stripe look very good together. I know I’m a little late to the party here, but welcome from the Mitten. My daughter is another Cudagirl, and she loves her car as much as you do! This is her not long after we got her the car, I think she was about 10, she’s 23 now! Happy motoring in that beautiful Cuda.
It has a new Milodon pan. The pan on the 318 doesn't fit and the 360 was only a block when i got it. And the K-frame was replaced in 2021 with a full QA1 Suspension system.Nice pics and story/history. I have one suggestion... the oil pan... desperately needs oil control baffels... the factory non-baffled pan welcomes oil starvation in cornering, acceleration and deceleration. Simple flat steel plates can be welded in front and rear of the sump (a little channeled cut for clearance for the oil pump tube is needed, as well as a small hole for the dip stick). Or else, install the Milodon ProTouring style pan with Milodon pick-up... money well spent. Modifying the factory type pan with internal baffels is the lowest cost best mod for our engines!... and without any hassles with the new headers or k-frame.
Cool! Which Milodon oil pan did you install? Stock, drag, or touring?It has a new Milodon pan. The pan on the 318 doesn't fit and the 360 was only a block when i got it. And the K-frame was replaced in 2021 with a full QA1 Suspension system.