zeus
Member
DASHBOARD Removal DIY
Hello. I read on another forum, it was only six bolts to remove a dashboard, and "maybe some other things need unbolted". Boy did it make it sound easy to pull it. Well it wasn't. So I'm doing a quick small write-up on it. Sorry I didn't take pics, didn't know it was going to write this. I think that guy who gave the previous advice had dropped his whole steering column too, which could make it easier but I don't think it's worth the effort. He also lied and made it sound like you need to take the coolant out of the a/c system, which wasn't even connected to the dash and was a complete lie, it's still stuck to my firewall sans dashboard.
Ok, here are the bolts- There are 4 bolts in the dash on top on either end of the defroster/ac vent holes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the steering column, and for the record they had wayyy too much extra length on the studs which prevented later removal of the dash, so I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and shortened their excess length. They are still usable, and much shorter which made tilting the dash out easy. The last two bolts are on the extreme bottom of the dashboard on either end, where the kick panels are.
Here is all the fun electrical- you must remove the main bulkhead connectors on engine side (4 total, all shaped different so you dont have to keep track of them), then remove the two bolts holding the connector to the firewall. Then all the electrical connections to the steering column. I also had one wire which ran from somewhere behind the dash through a grommet on the firewall and went to one side of the ignition coil. I found a connecter somewhere near the coil and pulled the wire with the grommet through the firewall. I also pulled the vacuum hose group connector that runs off the back of the a/c selector. Furthermore, I removed the kick switch for the high beams (and just kept it with the dash), electrical for stereo (bottom left kickpanel), and the driver door sensor (1973). There's also two connectors that run to the brake switch on the brake pedal arm. The passenger door sensor I had to cut, since it didn't have a connector that I could locate. Also remove the speedo cable! Mine pulled out, good opportunity to lube it for smooth speedo operation. Make sure you remove the hood release and leave it on the floor. Oh and if you have a/c there's a cable that runs to the heater control valve device, which is mounted on the coolant hoses near the top of the passenger side fender, just remove the cable where it attaches to the device and pull it through the firewall, as I couldn't see how to remove it from the back of the a/c selector from underneath the console.
This is for dash clearance- I already had my seats removed. They are only four bolts each and this will make the job a ton easier. Removed the steering wheel by popping the cap, disconnecting the three nuts, and the horn. I also needed to remove one of the trim peices to the lower right side of the steering wheel. I felt I would break it if I tried to pull it without removing that peice but I'm not sure if it's necessary. Removing it, the tricky part is three or so screws are visible, the other three are accessible if you remove the three screws holding in the ashtray, and you can feel them to the left. The screws are pointed towards you, and it's only like 3 inches between the screw heads and the wall of the panel, so you need a stubby screwdriver and some patience. Other than that, I think it took a buddy to help heave it out. I think that covers everything I had to do to get it out. If I think of anything else I will edit it and add it in. Installation is reverse, atleast I hope!!!!!
PS. took about 3 hours, but I had some extreme difficulty getting my bulkhead connectors to pop out. since mine seemed stuck (like the outer plastic twangs were flexing without releasing) I had to get a tiny flathead in there in the crack of where they need to open and manually shove them open). Good time to sand those connections a little too!
I hope this helps! EDIT: I just found this link: http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/717/1/ but he chose to take most of it apart before pulling the whole thing.
EDIT: I accidentally titled it "console" removal instead of "dashboard" removal. Whoops!
Hello. I read on another forum, it was only six bolts to remove a dashboard, and "maybe some other things need unbolted". Boy did it make it sound easy to pull it. Well it wasn't. So I'm doing a quick small write-up on it. Sorry I didn't take pics, didn't know it was going to write this. I think that guy who gave the previous advice had dropped his whole steering column too, which could make it easier but I don't think it's worth the effort. He also lied and made it sound like you need to take the coolant out of the a/c system, which wasn't even connected to the dash and was a complete lie, it's still stuck to my firewall sans dashboard.
Ok, here are the bolts- There are 4 bolts in the dash on top on either end of the defroster/ac vent holes. There are two bolts on the bottom of the steering column, and for the record they had wayyy too much extra length on the studs which prevented later removal of the dash, so I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and shortened their excess length. They are still usable, and much shorter which made tilting the dash out easy. The last two bolts are on the extreme bottom of the dashboard on either end, where the kick panels are.
Here is all the fun electrical- you must remove the main bulkhead connectors on engine side (4 total, all shaped different so you dont have to keep track of them), then remove the two bolts holding the connector to the firewall. Then all the electrical connections to the steering column. I also had one wire which ran from somewhere behind the dash through a grommet on the firewall and went to one side of the ignition coil. I found a connecter somewhere near the coil and pulled the wire with the grommet through the firewall. I also pulled the vacuum hose group connector that runs off the back of the a/c selector. Furthermore, I removed the kick switch for the high beams (and just kept it with the dash), electrical for stereo (bottom left kickpanel), and the driver door sensor (1973). There's also two connectors that run to the brake switch on the brake pedal arm. The passenger door sensor I had to cut, since it didn't have a connector that I could locate. Also remove the speedo cable! Mine pulled out, good opportunity to lube it for smooth speedo operation. Make sure you remove the hood release and leave it on the floor. Oh and if you have a/c there's a cable that runs to the heater control valve device, which is mounted on the coolant hoses near the top of the passenger side fender, just remove the cable where it attaches to the device and pull it through the firewall, as I couldn't see how to remove it from the back of the a/c selector from underneath the console.
This is for dash clearance- I already had my seats removed. They are only four bolts each and this will make the job a ton easier. Removed the steering wheel by popping the cap, disconnecting the three nuts, and the horn. I also needed to remove one of the trim peices to the lower right side of the steering wheel. I felt I would break it if I tried to pull it without removing that peice but I'm not sure if it's necessary. Removing it, the tricky part is three or so screws are visible, the other three are accessible if you remove the three screws holding in the ashtray, and you can feel them to the left. The screws are pointed towards you, and it's only like 3 inches between the screw heads and the wall of the panel, so you need a stubby screwdriver and some patience. Other than that, I think it took a buddy to help heave it out. I think that covers everything I had to do to get it out. If I think of anything else I will edit it and add it in. Installation is reverse, atleast I hope!!!!!
PS. took about 3 hours, but I had some extreme difficulty getting my bulkhead connectors to pop out. since mine seemed stuck (like the outer plastic twangs were flexing without releasing) I had to get a tiny flathead in there in the crack of where they need to open and manually shove them open). Good time to sand those connections a little too!
I hope this helps! EDIT: I just found this link: http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/717/1/ but he chose to take most of it apart before pulling the whole thing.
EDIT: I accidentally titled it "console" removal instead of "dashboard" removal. Whoops!
Last edited:
