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Deck filler repair

rmchrgr

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Working on a '72 Challenger with a vinyl top. Yesterday I found that the trunk hinge bracket spot welds had popped at some point and were poorly repaired by bolting them through. (!) I know this is not uncommon as the trunk can snap open with some force. If the metal is thin, it will eventually happen.
IMG_8675.jpg

IMG_8676.jpg

While looking under the filler panel to see what caused that to happen, I noticed that there was rot along the flanges of the deck filler panel where it meets the quarters (both sides) and at a few points where it butts up to the package tray. A bit odd but that's what I could see.

Today I figured out what caused it. This car was painted in the '80s. As you'd expect, the vinyl top trim was removed before paint. The trim is held on by clips that slide into studs along the base of the window. Whoever removed the trim gorilla'd it and somehow broke a couple of those little studs. To prevent the trim from flopping around, the same genius replaced them with regular screws but left the holes from the broken studs right next to the screws! Seriously! You gotta be unconscious to do that. OK, perhaps it's possible the bottom of the broken studs were still there when they put the screws in and they rattled themselves loose over time and fell out but who knows. Either way, there are holes.

How does this happen???
IMG_8710.jpg


This is under the deck filler looking toward the back of the package tray.
IMG_8696.jpg

Once it got inside the deck panel flange, the water would then run down the seam and settle in the gutter on the hinge bracket spot welds. Like I said, eventually it got thin enough that when someone opened the trunk without holding it they pulled through. This is obviously also why the filler panel flanges are rotted. I need to get the window out to know for sure but there is no other rust in that area from what I can tell. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see how I can avoid not painting the entire car as the vinyl top would have to come off to repair the deck panel.

The trunk is scaly but there are no holes. Unfortunately the same dumbass probably used whatever left over paint they had to cover the deck panel and painted right over the scaly trunk floor...yeah.

No rot through in the trunk but needs to be srtipped and repainted.
IMG_8687.jpg


Might as well do the quarters while I'm at it since the flanges are rusty where they attach to the filler panel. Not sure if there is rot on the bottoms, can't see. Quarters also means left and right trunk gutters... I honestly don't see how the filler panel can be repaired properly otherwise.

This is the snowball effect x100. I don't mind getting deep into the weeds but this is not something I planned on with this car. See my Welcome Wagon post for more details on that. Sure I can leave it but the deck filler ties several pieces together and it's going to bother me to no end knowing that it's compromised.

Kind of a subjective question but if this was your car, how would you proceed?

Thanks for any input!
 
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Deathproofcuda

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It's a nice clean looking 72 that you've already said you paid too much for. I'd gently close the trunk, keep the car parked in a dry garage, and drive the wheels off of it on nice sunny days. :steering:
 

rmchrgr

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Yeah, you're probably right. I'll never be able to ignore the rust completely but taking apart the entire car to fix it is not worth the exercise.

Last night I found screws that mimic the OE trim studs, just have to figure out how to plug the extra stud holes which shouldn't be a big deal. Stripping and re-painting the trunk floor does not involve the rest of the car so that's something I can improve without getting too involved.

The trunk hinges do bother me though and the current 'repair' looks ridiculous. Best solution would obviously be to weld in a new panel or patch the gutter but in lieu of that, maybe there is a way to secure the hinge bracket so it doesn't look so half-assed. A patch would be a bit tricky as there is not a lot of room and there would be a lot of heat in a small area. Perhaps an elevator bolt with a flat top that sits relatively flush could work. Also looked into gas struts to dampen the opening of the hinge.

More than one way to skin a cat I guess.
 

wannadrag29

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Yeah, you're probably right. I'll never be able to ignore the rust completely but taking apart the entire car to fix it is not worth the exercise.

Last night I found screws that mimic the OE trim studs, just have to figure out how to plug the extra stud holes which shouldn't be a big deal. Stripping and re-painting the trunk floor does not involve the rest of the car so that's something I can improve without getting too involved.

The trunk hinges do bother me though and the current 'repair' looks ridiculous. Best solution would obviously be to weld in a new panel or patch the gutter but in lieu of that, maybe there is a way to secure the hinge bracket so it doesn't look so half-assed. A patch would be a bit tricky as there is not a lot of room and there would be a lot of heat in a small area. Perhaps an elevator bolt with a flat top that sits relatively flush could work. Also looked into gas struts to dampen the opening of the hinge.

More than one way to skin a cat I guess.
You are the only one who will know of the "half assed" repair. Close the trunk and drive the wheels off of it and enjoy it. Deathproofcuda nailed it. The repairs you mentioned above easily hit 5 figures.
 

Adam

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Working on a '72 Challenger with a vinyl top. Yesterday I found that the trunk hinge bracket spot welds had popped at some point and were poorly repaired by bolting them through. (!) I know this is not uncommon as the trunk can snap open with some force. If the metal is thin, it will eventually happen.
View attachment 135908
View attachment 135909
While looking under the filler panel to see what caused that to happen, I noticed that there was rot along the flanges of the deck filler panel where it meets the quarters (both sides) and at a few points where it butts up to the package tray. A bit odd but that's what I could see.

Today I figured out what caused it. This car was painted in the '80s. As you'd expect, the vinyl top trim was removed before paint. The trim is held on by clips that slide into studs along the base of the window. Whoever removed the trim gorilla'd it and somehow broke a couple of those little studs. To prevent the trim from flopping around, the same genius replaced them with regular screws but left the holes from the broken studs right next to the screws! Seriously! You gotta be unconscious to do that. OK, perhaps it's possible the bottom of the broken studs were still there when they put the screws in and they rattled themselves loose over time and fell out but who knows. Either way, there are holes.

How does this happen???
View attachment 135919

This is under the deck filler looking toward the back of the package tray.
View attachment 135910
Once it got inside the deck panel flange, the water would then run down the seam and settle in the gutter on the hinge bracket spot welds. Like I said, eventually it got thin enough that when someone opened the trunk without holding it they pulled through. This is obviously also why the filler panel flanges are rotted. I need to get the window out to know for sure but there is no other rust in that area from what I can tell. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see how I can avoid not painting the entire car as the vinyl top would have to come off to repair the deck panel.

The trunk is scaly but there are no holes. Unfortunately the same dumbass probably used whatever left over paint they had to cover the deck panel and painted right over the scaly trunk floor...yeah.

No rot through in the trunk but needs to be srtipped and repainted.
View attachment 135912

Might as well do the quarters while I'm at it since the flanges are rusty where they attach to the filler panel. Not sure if there is rot on the bottoms, can't see. Quarters also means left and right trunk gutters... I honestly don't see how the filler panel can be repaired properly otherwise.

This is the snowball effect x100. I don't mind getting deep into the weeds but this is not something I planned on with this car. See my Welcome Wagon post for more details on that. Sure I can leave it but the deck filler ties several pieces together and it's going to bother me to no end knowing that it's compromised.

Kind of a subjective question but if this was your car, how would you proceed?

Thanks for any input!
An option to consider: get some metal etch/prep solution (available at Home Depot). It’s main component is phosphoric acid. It will neutralize the rust. It leaves a residue and the directions say to wash it off with water, but I would not do that; use acetone instead. You then need to clean the rusty areas as best you can; I would use a paint strip wheel like this https://www.amazon.com/3M-03171-Paint-Rust-Stripper/dp/B000W9XYDO?th=1

With the rust neutralized, and the areas cleaned up with the wheel, you can use body panel adhesive https://www.amazon.com/3M-08115-Pan...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482456791592&th=1 to add reinforcement pieces to the bottom areas. Make paper templates and then 18 or 19 gauge sheet metal patches. The adhesive is stronger than the sheet metal, with proper preparation and application.

Best part is no heat and no damage to the paint on top. I would then spray paint any exposed or rusty areas with an etching primer.
I would consider this a temporary repair that would last a few years.
 

rmchrgr

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An option to consider: get some metal etch/prep solution (available at Home Depot). It’s main component is phosphoric acid. It will neutralize the rust. It leaves a residue and the directions say to wash it off with water, but I would not do that; use acetone instead. You then need to clean the rusty areas as best you can; I would use a paint strip wheel like this https://www.amazon.com/3M-03171-Paint-Rust-Stripper/dp/B000W9XYDO?th=1

With the rust neutralized, and the areas cleaned up with the wheel, you can use body panel adhesive https://www.amazon.com/3M-08115-Pan...&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482456791592&th=1 to add reinforcement pieces to the bottom areas. Make paper templates and then 18 or 19 gauge sheet metal patches. The adhesive is stronger than the sheet metal, with proper preparation and application.

Best part is no heat and no damage to the paint on top. I would then spray paint any exposed or rusty areas with an etching primer.
I would consider this a temporary repair that would last a few years.
Those sound like reasonable ideas but the one thing I'd be wary of is leaving any chemicals sitting in a spot that I can't get to or clean out 100%.

I'll probably just clean the area up as best as I can and seal it with epoxy primer when I do the trunk floor. If I ever decide to paint the whole car I'll repair the panel properly at that time.
 

don selleck

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I have to agree with deathproof also, I zoomed in on your trunk and can see small rust holes in the stamped grooves, and the lower area of the inner wheel housing, you strip that down to bare metal and there won't be much left, that's a big can of worms. If anything maybe knock of the high spots and use some rust encapsulator on it. Good luck drive the car and have fun with it
 

rmchrgr

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I have to agree with deathproof also, I zoomed in on your trunk and can see small rust holes in the stamped grooves, and the lower area of the inner wheel housing, you strip that down to bare metal and there won't be much left, that's a big can of worms. If anything maybe knock of the high spots and use some rust encapsulator on it. Good luck drive the car and have fun with it
I'm not sure where you're seeing any holes? There is an exhaust hanger thing missing on the lower right that someone put screws through from the bottom but other than that I'm not seeing any actual rot holes in the trunk pan itself. It is pretty scaly underneath the paint though.

Even though I've said I'll just clean it up and drive it, I am still going back and forth with repairing this stuff now while the car is apart. Part of me wants to do the deck filler and trunk pan repairs for the experience and for the peace of mind knowing that everything is 100%. In practical terms, with the trunk pan removed it would give me more room to do the deck filler and trunk hinge brackets.

Problem is the snowball effect. No matter what, the car would have to be painted to some extent. My guess is I'd end up doing the quarters too since there is likely rot along the seam where they meet the deck filler. There is one older repair towards the door. I don't know what the results of trying to blend the repaired filler area with the existing paint would look like but doing quarters would obviously require painting the whole car.

That all may not be a bad thing. I'm already upside-down on the car I'm just not sure I want to bury myself completely.
 
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