Drumb to Disc Swap

[71droptop]

Read this article on using factory parts to improve your brakes without the headaches of going aftermarket. Next, watch every E-body video you can here.
A killer factory setup is to go with a Bendix E-body power brake booster, a 3461187 master cylinder, factory 11.75" front rotors (most call these 12") and either stock 10" or 11" rear drums. The TA-style metering valve is a must have item and is approximately $71. If you have enough engine vacuum, you are good-to-go. If not, use the LEED Brakes VP002 ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP KIT - BANDIT SERIES and you will have a system that can hang with any aftermarket kit out there.

Hey Mopar guy- great feed back. Where did you see that article. Who has the T/A metering valve. Thanks in Advance.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Hey Mopar guy- great feed back. Where did you see that article. Who has the T/A metering valve. Thanks in Advance.

My post has embedded hyperlinks.

 

[bc3j]

Hey Mopar guy- great feed back. Where did you see that article. Who has the T/A metering valve. Thanks in Advance.

Dr Diff has the metering valve.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

My post had embedded hyperlinks.

Link to Disc/Drum Proportioning Valve and Metering Valve

 

[Fireman Dan]

Read this article on using factory parts to improve your brakes without the headaches of going aftermarket. Next, watch every E-body video you can here.
A killer factory setup is to go with a Bendix E-body power brake booster, a 3461187 master cylinder, factory 11.75" front rotors (most call these 12") and either stock 10" or 11" rear drums. The TA-style metering valve is a must have item and is approximately $71. If you have enough engine vacuum, you are good-to-go. If not, use the LEED Brakes VP002 ELECTRIC VACUUM PUMP KIT - BANDIT SERIES and you will have a system that can hang with any aftermarket kit out there.

Great info. I’m doing a swap on a 70. Some years ago I bought a disc set up from a 73 or 74. I understand those are the brackets for the 12” upgrade. Can you supply the part numbers for the correct ones? What vehicle is source for 12” rotors?

 

[hdwrench]

Yeah pretty much have to have the brake pedal to the floor during any stop also get some pull to one side so yeah. Bottomline is yeah I need to do a deeper inspection on the whole system. I started the thread though as yeah advice on the conversion kits as still thinking of swapping the rear, I yes realize it's more of a looks thing than functionality. Thanks all for the advice.

if your pedal is near the floor while braking your current system is not working properly. if your change to new rear disc w/o fixing this problem your brakes could sill not work properly.

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

As was already mentioned the factory brakes are actually pretty good. but if you are converting to disc using factory parts you want the master cylinder and proportioning valve to match what you are using. I have done an A-body swap using spindles from a 74 Dart to a 67 Dart then swapping C-body disc and drums (axle change required for the rear bolt pattern change) and I have a 4 wheel disc conversion using Baer disc brakes on my 72 big block Barracuda, I also converted my nephews 66 Charger using the disc brakes from the Barracuda.
Mopar brakes are pretty straight forward and you can have some pretty inexpensive options with a little research. Spindles are usually the key for the front...

 

[moparleo]

If the brake pedal is low and does not have air in the system it could be that the rear brakes are out of adjustment.
This can also cause a pull. But before anything, the car needs an all 4 wheels off brake inspection.
So many things can be needing maintenance.
Check for any fluid, grease seal leaks. Inspect brake lines both steel and rubber.
Brake lines deteriorate from the inside out. So don't assume because you don't see anything obvious that the lines are good.
Get a service manual to use for reference when doing the inspection. At minimum if the rear braks are in servicable condition, They should be adjusted properly.
If they were way out of adjustment your brake pedal should be higher after the adjustment.
Check the inside of the M/C for sludge, in the bottom or leaks.
Do a complete brake fluid flush. Brake fluid absorbs water. The fluid becomes degraded with the water and under hard braking the pedal can drop to the floor. Brakefluid gets hot under braking, If the braking is hard enough it can cause the water to evaporate in the lines. Because air is compressable the pedal drops.

 

[Challenger RTA]

All the info above is good. Gone through all that BS of brake repairs many times. I have 3 or 4 new rolls of copper nickle laying around. For myself friends and family. I'll even fix an enemies brakes if need be. TRUST ME. I don't know if I have any enemies anymore. It's one thing for a limp it home repair it's an other when you have the time to fix it right. If not new take it all out and start over. When you have X amount in an classic, you put a little more care it to it. After redoing the brake system I came to the conclusion to use DOT 5.1 and mark it.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Follow-up

Great info. I’m doing a swap on a 70. Some years ago I bought a disc set up from a 73 or 74. I understand those are the brackets for the 12” upgrade. Can you supply the part numbers for the correct ones? What vehicle is source for 12” rotors?

Try the Doctor Diff site for the larger caliper brackets for 11.75" a.k.a. 12" rotors.
Don't forget the larger rotors will need 15" or larger wheels to clear.

 

[DaveBob]

Hey all, looking to swap my the drumb brakes to disc on my 73 Challenger here this winter. Anyone have any suggestions on kits? I've seen a few from Wilwood, Classic Performance, etc. Wondering what people have had experience with and who had the best experience with which kit?

Thanks All!

The best bang for the buck braking system that I did on a vintage MoPar was on my 69 340 Dart. I swapped the front drum brakes for factory discs, kept the rear drums, and installed an NOS master and an adjustable proportioning valve. I dialed out a lot of the braking from the 10" rear drums to get the proper balance. I didn't add a booster initially, (even though all my friends said I would have to do so) but then found that I preferred the manual brakes as they were much easier to modulate at impending lock up and didn't lock up when I hit the brakes quickly in a panic situation. I replicated the setup in my 70 Cuda, but it never worked as well as the Dart system. The biggest difference between the two was a multiple piston, fixed caliper on the Dart and a single piston, floating caliper on the Cuda. I would lean toward the multiple piston fixed caliper setups, but since they are all aftermarket (that I have seen) you need to be prepared to correct a lot of little issues that come with "universal fit" parts. I prefer the Baer kits over the Wilwood, but had to correct a half dozen little things on stuff from Baer. I can give you details if you go that direction.