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Edelbrock 1406 tuning

7DCUDA383A

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Looking for info on idle mixture . All the videos I find have the vacuum gauge on the manifold side but mine ia an Auto , so does the gauge go on the ported side , have not seen any like this to tune , also I guess since I have disk brakes is why the hose from the valve cover goes to the rear of the carb . Here are some pics .
 

pschlosser

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Looking for info on idle mixture . All the videos I find have the vacuum gauge on the manifold side but mine ia an Auto , so does the gauge go on the ported side , have not seen any like this to tune , also I guess since I have disk brakes is why the hose from the valve cover goes to the rear of the carb . Here are some pics .

The procedure I have followed uses a tune-up tachometer to set the highest RPM possible when adjusting the idle mixture screws. The screws are turned 1/8 at a time. Once the highest idle is found, we turn them in an 1/8 of a turn to leave the mixture slightly on the rich side. You may need to adjust the idle speed DURING the procedure to bring the idle back up/down to spec.

Regarding Disc Brakes, your images show a manual master cylinder, so no power brakes. Disc Brakes from the factory were generally bundled with Power Brakes. The hose from the valve cover to the base of the carb is for the PCV crankcase ventilation.
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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View attachment 128921View attachment 128922Looking for info on idle mixture . All the videos I find have the vacuum gauge on the manifold side but mine ia an Auto , so does the gauge go on the ported side , have not seen any like this to tune , also I guess since I have disk brakes is why the hose from the valve cover goes to the rear of the carb . Here are some pics .
I don't like how the throttle/kickdown/springs are attached to the carb. You should be using the Edelbrock Mopar adapter, which provides the correct alignment for everything. Also, please put the PCV vacuum connection to the front of the carb and plug the back. The back is for a power brake unit, which you don't have. My engine has too much of a cam to use a vacuum gauge so I use the tach on my timing light. I go for max RPM's then a very slight turn counter clockwise to keep it a tad rich. If you use a vacuum gauge, you must put it on the full manifold vacuum port.
 

7DCUDA383A

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I don't like how the throttle/kickdown/springs are attached to the carb. You should be using the Edelbrock Mopar adapter, which provides the correct alignment for everything. Also, please put the PCV vacuum connection to the front of the carb and plug the back. The back is for a power brake unit, which you don't have. My engine has too much of a cam to use a vacuum gauge so I use the tach on my timing light. I go for max RPM's then a very slight turn counter clockwise to keep it a tad rich. If you use a vacuum gauge, you must put it on the full manifold vacuum port.
Ok , thank you for confirming that about the pvc connection , like I said in my Newbie section this is all new to me , I want to learn everything but I know it will take years , if I unhook the vacuum from the manifold do I move it to port side or just let it hang .
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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Ok , thank you for confirming that about the pvc connection , like I said in my Newbie section this is all new to me , I want to learn everything but I know it will take years , if I unhook the vacuum from the manifold do I move it to port side or just let it hang .
No sweat man, and welcome to the forum! All of us had to start somewhere, and you're in a great place to tap the Mopar "wisdom" of the group!

I would use a vacuum "T" connection so you can keep the vacuum advance line connected to the distributor and also provide vacuum to your gauge. You'll need a little extra vacuum line and the "T" to do this, but it does not cost much and you can get it thru Amazon or a local parts house.
 

7DCUDA383A

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No sweat man, and welcome to the forum! All of us had to start somewhere, and you're in a great place to tap the Mopar "wisdom" of the group!

I would use a vacuum "T" connection so you can keep the vacuum advance line connected to the distributor and also provide vacuum to your gauge. You'll need a little extra vacuum line and the "T" to do this, but it does not cost much and you can get it thru Amazon or a local parts house.
Not sure whats going on here but I thought the PVC hose went to the front of the carb but when I went to move it from back to front the hose was in the manifold , the bottom connection .

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Ricks72Chlgr440

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Not sure whats going on here but I thought the PVC hose went to the front of the carb but when I went to move it from back to front the hose was in the manifold , the bottom connection .

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You can leave it where it was, as that connected to the plenum of the manifold. Like Challenger RTA said, downloading the service manual will help you immensely. Contact us if you have questions.
 

pschlosser

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The FSM can be less useful, sometimes, when working with non-original components, because the diagrams and text won't match what's on the engine.

Regardless, let us know if you want to know more information about the "idle mixture tuning procedure." We're here to help.
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I have heard its better on the carb .
I would argue that. You can certainly put it on the carb, but if you take the carb off and look at the bottom where the PCV opening is it is also open to the plenum like where your current hose goes. Try it out, experiment with it. Won't hurt a thing to play with where your hose goes. Check the vacuum on the engine while connected to each place and see if there is a difference. Think you'll find no difference, but hey, it's your car. Part of the joy of owning our older girls is learning about what works, and what does not. Enjoy!
 

7DCUDA383A

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I would argue that. You can certainly put it on the carb, but if you take the carb off and look at the bottom where the PCV opening is it is also open to the plenum like where your current hose goes. Try it out, experiment with it. Won't hurt a thing to play with where your hose goes. Check the vacuum on the engine while connected to each place and see if there is a difference. Think you'll find no difference, but hey, it's your car. Part of the joy of owning our older girls is learning about what works, and what does not. Enjoy!
Thanks man , this is new territory for me but I do have some mechanical skills just not the numbers skill like compression etc .
 

7DCUDA383A

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I would argue that. You can certainly put it on the carb, but if you take the carb off and look at the bottom where the PCV opening is it is also open to the plenum like where your current hose goes. Try it out, experiment with it. Won't hurt a thing to play with where your hose goes. Check the vacuum on the engine while connected to each place and see if there is a difference. Think you'll find no difference, but hey, it's your car. Part of the joy of owning our older girls is learning about what works, and what does not. Enjoy!
Thanks man , this is new territory for me but I do have some mechanical skills just not the numbers skill like compression et
The FSM can be less useful, sometimes, when working with non-original components, because the diagrams and text won't match what's on the engine.

Regardless, let us know if you want to know more information about the "idle mixture tuning procedure." We're here to help.
This forum is much needed for my future , y'all are badass , thanks .
 

Xcudame

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You can tune and time a Mopar with only an RPM gauge and vacuum gauge. The 383 is a very forgiving engine in that it will take a licking and keep on ticking! There's a reason Chrysler built over 3 million 383 Big Blocks!
 

7DCUDA383A

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You can tune and time a Mopar with only an RPM gauge and vacuum gauge. The 383 is a very forgiving engine in that it will take a licking and keep on ticking! There's a reason Chrysler built over 3 million 383 Big Blocks!
I have both , going to try today , the start up idle won't Idle down , im sure the carb needs rebuilt , looks dirty but also thinking of getting the AVS2 .
 
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