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Edelbrock 383 Top End kit

71 challenger

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Hello all
I have a couple of questions I hope someone could help me with, any input would be appreciated.
First let me explain I have a fairly basic knowledge of engines but have never rebuilt a top end, I've read anything and everything could find, asked friends opinions and called both Edelbrock and Summit tech lines, but I need more info before I feel confident enough to tackle this. My first question is in the instructions from edelbrock it says to use adjustable rocker assembly (which it did not say in the description when I bought the kit)but gives no other description or model suggestions. Does anyone have ideas or has anyone installed this kit. I found a Rocker assembly from Summit(Harland Sharp#CSPS700-5K)But before I spend another $700 american I would like input from experienced Mopar guys not the kid at Summit that probably drives a Honda civic
Second question is about pushrods.The instructions say to use pushrods that are 8.250" long with the hydraulic flat tappet lifters that also came with the kit. There is no mention of wall thickness,end type,material or diameter.Any suggestions? Will the pushrods be determined by the rockers I choose? I have so many questions and so little knowledge any input would be appreciated
Thanks
Matthias
 

moparleo

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I would contact Edelbrock with these questions since they sell the kit, they have to know what other parts are compatable and/or recommended for best results.
I would do that first before asking for info that might be good or not good. The best source is always the manufactuter of the parts. It is great that you are reading all that you can, because nobody is born with this knowledge although I think some people think they were. Good luck
 

Chryco Psycho

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Well I would skip the Eddy cam assuming it is part of the kit
I assume the heads are RPM which will take stock rockers so any rocker arm will bolt on with std offset , I would recommend the PRW kit
the pushrods would be determined by spring pressure & ball or cup type ends , the PRW uses a ball / ball pushrod , Smith Bros in Bend Oregon can get yoy a set tailered to your needs basically in 2 days . typically you need a 3/8 pushrod with 5/16 ball on both ends for the PRW rockers , make sure you measure for correct length as the racker may use a custom length
 

moparleo

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:icon_study:OK Here we go. Did you get the Edelbrock kit #2086 ? It does require an adjustable valvetrain. You will need the rockershafts and either adjustable rockerarms or adjustable pushrods. Again I would call Edelbrocks tech line 1(800)416-8628 first. Also it would be a good idea to team up with someone who has more than 1 rebuild under his belt to help you . You are probably going to need to buy/rent/borrow some tools eg. good torque wrench, not a cheap $19.99 type. Also a quiet, clean area preferably garage or room with a door as you don't want to be disturbed or have wind blowing dirt around while you do this. According to Edelbrock the correct kit would have been part# 2086 which was for 383. The #2087 was for 440. The only difference is the intake manifold which has different port to head diameters.
I am going to assume that you haven't ever measured push rods before, so don't worry about it. It won't be needed. Keep it simple, go with the manufacturers recommendations for compatible parts and you can't go wrong. They have spent hundreds of thousands of dollars developing their parts. They know what will give good service. Later if you want to be the neighbor hood racer and have money to burn, you can try out whatever parts the local racer recommends, but That is down the line. Again good luck and its your money, spend it wisely.:icon_thumright:
.
 

Chryco Psycho

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agreed to a point , do they recommend a specific rocker arm ? the PRW kit is a stainless rocker arm , very durable for street use & comes with a pushrod measuring tool & is about 1/2 the cost of a set of Harland sharp rockers . The other problem with Harland is they use needle brgs which will premamturely wear the rocker shafts & will fill the engine with rollers if they fail .
 

71 challenger

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Thank you Leo and Psycho for you help.
I have contacted Edelbrock about these questions and felt like I was bothering the guy. He read the instruction manual to me verbatim. And since I myself can read, this was of little use to me.
Next, I do have the 383 kit #2086, so it does need to use the adjustable rocker arm assembly. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions of a good rocker setup to use. I looked up the PRW kit and assume I would need the 1.6 ratio kit #3244013. Is that right? Another question is what makes this adjustable? I think I understand the adjustable pushrods but am unclear on the rockers.
The pushrods that were in the car when I tore the motor down were 5/16 x 8.600 ball/ball with hydraulic lifters and stock stamped steel rockers. The edelbrock kit tells me to use pushrods that are 8.250" But I think I will wait until I get the rocker situation sorted out.
Lastly Psycho just wondering why you suggested to leave out the edelbrock cam? It is what the kit was designed for (and I already installed it).I'll keep checking in for suggestions and updates
Thanks Again
Matthias
 

Chryco Psycho

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The PRW rockers are good value for the $$ & come with the pushrod measuring tool , what are the cam specs ?? You can probably go with 1.6 ratio rockers , this will make the valve lift approx .030 more with out significantly increasing duration . I just feel the Eddy cams are not the best design , your are right they are designed as a pkg , I just think there are better choices , I was not sure how far along with this you were , if it is in , try it !
the 1.6 rockers are part# http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRW-MOPAR-1...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5adea2526d
You can see the adjuster nut on the short side of the rocker arm , it uses a ball / ball type pushrod , do not order pushrods until you verify the length you need , the gasket thickness , I would recommend using Cometic gaskets BTW , milling of thehead surface etc can affect pushrod length .
 

Chryco Psycho

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the only ones I have seen are Stainless & bushed with needle brgs only in the roller on the valve tip not on the shafts
 

Chryco Psycho

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Not yet , no time , worked til 1 am last night & working a 14 hr day today on 4 hrs sleep
 

moparleo

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:icon_salut:Any way , this guy is not a racer. He is just trying to get his engine running. For normal driving, any major manufactures parts will work fine. Now if he was building a hardcore ,highreving hotrod, he might choose something different what what you or I personally like. There are options, not just what we recommend.:wave:
 

71 challenger

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Leo you are Right I am not a racer I just want to do this correctly with the best parts for the money. I am not against spending the money for better quality parts I just dont want to waste money. I looked up the SS PRW kit # 3244012 and I think that is what I am going to go with, It seems really well made and bulletproof and at $500 I believe it will be money well spent although I am still open for suggestions.
By the way, Saturday I got the timing set and lifters installed and was all set to to install the heads (bought a $250 Digital torque wrench to replace my decent but not digital blackhawk) made sure I had plenty of anti-seize,inspected, stared,lovingly carresed, speculated weight reduction over the stock cast heads and as I tell my dad what a shame it is theydon't make a kit like this for the 360 magnum we are installing in the '37.Then right after my smug comment I layed the gasket on the block and noticed it's not even close to fitting, so right then I decided to write a letter to edelbrock blaming them and then shoot myself in the face.
Thankfully cooler heads prevailed and instead I looked up the part number stamped on the gasket and found it to be for a 350 chevy, so all this time was wasted I had people over to help me,made a big dinner bought lots of installation fuel for nothing except to feel like a fool for spending all this money on a kit that was described complete and ready to run only to find out it is neither, a tech line that took forever to get though and when I finally did they were anything but helpfull.and the final straw the wrong head gaskets, I mean seriously this is getting ridiculous Matthias
 

Chryco Psycho

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I am not trying to build a race car for you either , just my experience with the best quality for the $$ , yes there are cheaper rockers & there are more expensive rockers , for street use I prefer to use Iron or steel & the Crane nodular are no longer available , PRW is good value & strong , the Cometic head gaskets are better on alum head engines as the layers will slide with the different expansion rates between alum & steel , & do not tear the fibers as regular composition gaskets will , you do not wnat to do a tear down to swap gaskets in a year or two , yes they are expensive up front but will save headaches down the road . I am only offering advice from experience , you do not have to follow it !!
Sorry about the frustration with the gaskets .
 

71 challenger

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I got the top end done

download
 
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