Edelbrock heads on ~stock '74 340..Worth it?

[TeeScott]

All, I still have the 73 Ralleye 340 challenger I have mentioned in several posts over the past year or so. I received no history/details about the car from the PO. Quick summary of what I think I know:
--Nearly stock '73 Ralleye optioned 340 car (92,500Mi)
--original engine(Engine block #s: 2780930-340-6 & VIN: JH23HB576882) w 727 trans & 8-3/4 sure-grip Diff.
--Currently has some beat up long tube 1-5/8" headers with a full 2-1/8"O.D. exhaust with ~stock type mufflers.
--Has Stock heads (some topside casting#s: 34189 maybe 349891) that don't look like they've ever been pulled.
--LD4B Edel intake and a Edel 600CFM carb
--Stock type ignition w new stock type distributor & orange Ignition Module fm Mancini Racing.
--Car idles pretty smooth (might be a slightly over stock size cam, but barely discernible at idle if it's been changed), drives well, runs smooth, stays cool, and pulls pretty well. Plugs all run medium tan colored.

So,...Next project is to replace the Badly leaking original Steering box(w an OEM style replacement) and upgrade the exhaust. I plan to use TTI's 1-5/8" shorty headers for ease of install/clearance/etc.. and will likely use their full 2-1/2" exhaust system that pairs with them. IS IT WORTH MY $$, to upgrade the heads to a set of Edel. performers when I install the exhaust while leaving everything else as it is? Should I anticipate any type of clearance issues btwn the original pistons and the Edel heads? (Might also consider going with an Edel Performer Intake but I kind of like the nostalgic look of the LD4B-though I believe it flows less). I am NOT worried about whether the car is a 14 second car or a high 13 second car, etc... but A little more power than what I currently have would be nice...

THX-Scott

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

All, I still have the 73 Ralleye 340 challenger I have mentioned in several posts over the past year or so. I received no history/details about the car from the PO. Quick summary of what I think I know:
--Nearly stock '73 Ralleye optioned 340 car (92,500Mi)
--original engine(Engine block #s: 2780930-340-6 & VIN: JH23HB576882) w 727 trans & 8-3/4 sure-grip Diff.
--Currently has some beat up long tube 1-5/8" headers with a full 2-1/8"O.D. exhaust with ~stock type mufflers.
--Has Stock heads (some topside casting#s: 34189 maybe 349891) that don't look like they've ever been pulled.
--LD4B Edel intake and a Edel 600CFM carb
--Stock type ignition w new stock type distributor & orange Ignition Module fm Mancini Racing.
--Car idles pretty smooth (might be a slightly over stock size cam, but barely discernible at idle if it's been changed), drives well, runs smooth, stays cool, and pulls pretty well. Plugs all run medium tan colored.

So,...Next project is to replace the Badly leaking original Steering box(w an OEM style replacement) and upgrade the exhaust. I plan to use TTI's 1-5/8" shorty headers for ease of install/clearance/etc.. and will likely use their full 2-1/2" exhaust system that pairs with them. IS IT WORTH MY $$, to upgrade the heads to a set of Edel. performers when I install the exhaust while leaving everything else as it is? Should I anticipate any type of clearance issues btwn the original pistons and the Edel heads? (Might also consider going with an Edel Performer Intake but I kind of like the nostalgic look of the LD4B-though I believe it flows less). I am NOT worried about whether the car is a 14 second car or a high 13 second car, etc... but A little more power than what I currently have would be nice...

THX-Scott

It really come down to how much you want to spend on the project, and how much work you want to do. If it was my project, I would pull the engine and give it a refresh. The gaskets on that engine are old and likely leaking. The timing gear set is also likely in need of replacing due to age. In your case, the Edelbrock heads will flow better but unless you change the cam you probably won't see a lot of difference. You should not have any issues with piston clearance either unless you change the valvetrain and/or pistons. The LD4B was a decent intake and for your application it would not be worth going to a Performer.

 

[Xcudame]

If going to aluminum heads, I'd go with a pair of Speed masters and spend the money saved on them (compared to the Edelbrocks) and have a competent machine shop take them apart and fix any issues. Of course you can do the same with you're iron heads! Definitely time to consider a complete rebuild.

 

[Xcudame]

Speedmaster cylinder head link:

Mopar Chrysler SB 318 360 170cc 65cc Hydraulic Flat Assembled Cylinder Heads

SpecsBrand:SpeedmasterPart Number:PCE281.2146Part Type:Cylinder HeadsCylinder Head Style:AssembledCylinder Head Material:Aluminum Cylinder Head Finish:NaturalCombustion Chamber Volume (cc): 65 ccCNC-Machined Combustion Chamber:NoIntake Runner Volume (cc):170 ccExhaust Runner Volume (cc):n/a...

www.speedmaster79.com

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

If going to aluminum heads, I'd go with a pair of Speed masters and spend the money saved on them (compared to the Edelbrocks) and have a competent machine shop take them apart and fix any issues. Of course you can do the same with you're iron heads! Definitely time to consider a complete rebuild.

I went all out and put Trickflow 240's on my engine. Hey, if you're gonna do it, then do it!!!

 

[Xcudame]

I went all out and put Trickflow 240's on my engine. Hey, if you're gonna do it, then do it!!!

True, but he stated he wanted to keep it mild.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Edelbrock quality is not good , , low quality alum , pourous casting , core shift etc , I would use a better brand

 

[TeeScott]

Gents, As usual, your support and recommendations are "pure gold" to me as a "somewhat' mechanically proficient car guy (I've pulled a few engines, changed transmissions and driveshafts, numerous radiators & accessories, leaf springs, shocks, etc... Mostly stuff I can do in my garage with a set of jack stands). And though i thoroughly enjoy some troubleshooting and doing the work on my cars, my back & shoulders, etc... are starting to see great value in employing the help of a "good" local shop.

MY GOALS: to refresh the entire car to a level so that I am comfortable driving to car show/events within a few hours of my house. Not really worried about retaining 100% OEM type equipment & will make upgrades where they make sense to improve safety/reliability/efficiency/fun. (I can currently stab the long pedal and the car will lay 2 nice 15+' black marks w no type of cheating power breaking. Expect it would do more, but I really haven't been pushing the car too hard as I work through issues.)

So,
1) the advice about the Speedmaster heads is great, (I've seen them mentioned on various posts and reviewed the specs. For the $400+ price diff. btwn a set of Edels, I am sold.)
2)The advice about pulling the engine for a refresh is also solid.
--The old oil pan is pretty rusted and "weeps " a little around the full circumference.
--The water pump works fine, but looks like it might be original (or at least decades old)
--Hadn't thought about the double roller timing gears/chain since it operates very quiet, but since it is likely original, I'll renew it all if we pull the engine later this fall.

Will provide some feedback down the road as I make progress later this Fall/Winter.
-Scott

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Gents, As usual, your support and recommendations are "pure gold" to me as a "somewhat' mechanically proficient car guy (I've pulled a few engines, changed transmissions and driveshafts, numerous radiators & accessories, leaf springs, shocks, etc... Mostly stuff I can do in my garage with a set of jack stands). And though i thoroughly enjoy some troubleshooting and doing the work on my cars, my back & shoulders, etc... are starting to see great value in employing the help of a "good" local shop.

MY GOALS: to refresh the entire car to a level so that I am comfortable driving to car show/events within a few hours of my house. Not really worried about retaining 100% OEM type equipment & will make upgrades where they make sense to improve safety/reliability/efficiency/fun. (I can currently stab the long pedal and the car will lay 2 nice 15+' black marks w no type of cheating power breaking. Expect it would do more, but I really haven't been pushing the car too hard as I work through issues.)

So,
1) the advice about the Speedmaster heads is great, (I've seen them mentioned on various posts and reviewed the specs. For the $400+ price diff. btwn a set of Edels, I am sold.)
2)The advice about pulling the engine for a refresh is also solid.
--The old oil pan is pretty rusted and "weeps " a little around the full circumference.
--The water pump works fine, but looks like it might be original (or at least decades old)
--Hadn't thought about the double roller timing gears/chain since it operates very quiet, but since it is likely original, I'll renew it all if we pull the engine later this fall.

Will provide some feedback down the road as I make progress later this Fall/Winter.
-Scott

The goal of a very dependable car is what we all want, for sure. As for water pumps, I use the FlowKooler high flow pump with a high flow thermostat. That combination has worked well for me. While you're looking your car over be sure to inspect the radiator for leaks or when looking down into the radiator to see if the core tubes are clean. If the radiator is older it may need to be pulled and cleaned out by a radiator shop. That's the thing about our older cars; by this time there has been a lot of fingers in the pie! Who knows what folks have done (or not done) that needs to be checked.

If the engine is running well, you could certainly pull & clean the pan/pickup tube and replace the pan gaskets to fix your leak. Replacing the timing chain would also have you replace the timing cover gasket too. After you swap the heads you'll be replacing the head & intake gaskets... which would effectively reseal your engine!

Have fun!