Factory exhaust manifolds...2 questions

[Super-G]

OK I scored a nice clean set of 69 B body HP manifolds for my 440 Challenger. I'll be installing them soon once the engine is finished being detailed.

I also ordered a set of Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets as well as the manifold bolt kit with the stainless steel sleeves. What's the scoop with the sleeves? Do they thread into the manifold? Because my manifolds are not tapped for these sleeves. It appears to me that most of the manifold mounting bolts are in reality just studs which should make installation simple I'm just can't figure out how the sleeves work.

Also the factory heat riser has been removed leaving 2 holes in the side of the manifold where the center piece sat. I'm certain that these holes can just be plugged. Has anyone else done this? Any previkous experience is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[moparleo]

The simplest way to deal with the heat riser holes is to plug them by brazing a plug made by cutting the correct diameter bolt long enough to fill the holes. The reason I prefer brazing as opposed to welding the hole shut, is that brazing is reversable and welding is not. Also this should be common knowledge but the reason the stock manifolds don't leak from the factory is because they don't use a gasket. Gaskets are needed only where the 2 surfaces attached to each other have different expansion rates when heated or cooled. The gasket allows for there to be materials like aluminum/steel to maintain a seal between the materials. If all the parts of an engine were made from the same material and machined to the same specs, gaskets would not be required.The manifold and head surfaces are machined so that a gasket is uneccessary. Make sure to use antisieze on the manifold studs and have the manifolds machined for a precision fit and you won't need a gasket unless you are using aluminum aftermarket heads.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

the factory used short studs for the exhaust manifolds , there is no way to get a nut on the manifolds in 3 positions so the long stud / nuts were used so with a stud in the head & sealed to prevent coolaant leaks the sleeve nuts thread onto the studs & the sholder pulls the manifold tight . I agree do not use a gasket or you will create leaks

 

[Super-G]

OK cool, so if I'm reading you guys right, I should install all the studs (with anti-seize), and then just slide the manifolds onto the studs and torque them down without using a gasket between the heads and manifold??

Other than using a straight edge on the manifold and exhaust ports, how can I guarantee that the sealing edges are exact?

Sorry if I sound like a rookie I am a former GM guy and relatively new to Mopars.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use sealer like pipe dope on the studs into the heads then I use a thin layer of Ultra Copper RTV between the manifold & head just to insure a seal . I have never seen the manifolds warp like the GM ones do but checking them with a straight sdge or on the heads is a good idea .

 

[moparleo]

Ditto, Good advice.
Happy New Year