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Fast steering- 70 T/A

Challenger RTA

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I just have to say looking at the wide tires and the T/A hood it looks good. It seem to say Don't F***K With Me or you'll find out. Makes me want to take R/T hood off and put The T/A hood back on.
 

moparleo

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The picture looks like the ride height is set too high. Ride height is the first thing that you do when doing an alignment. If it is set incorrectly, the rest of the alignment will be compromised. Maybe trying to accommodate the wider tires.
The closest radial tire in dimension to the original T/A tire (E60-15 ) is a 215/65-15. On a 15X7 Rally wheel.
Your tires are 2 sizes larger than factory.
Raising the vehicle decreases camber. You want more camber.
Your popping sound is likely broken spot welds at the trans tunnel cross member. Another great reason for subframe connectors.
 
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VillaTA

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Photo reference for ride height. I agree that the wide tires need to get smaller. I also agree that the ride height is high. I definitely prefer the lower look. Tires are next on my list.
 

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Challenger RTA

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The picture looks like the ride height is set too high. Maybe trying to accommodate the wider tires. The closest radial tire in dimension to the original T/A tire(E60-15 ) is a 215/65-15. 15X7 Rally wheel. Your tires are 2 sizes larger than factory.
Raising the vehicle decreases camber. You want more camber.
Your popping sound is likely broken spot welds at the trans tunnel cross member. Another great reason for subframe connectors.
Here we go.I was waiting to see if there was a mention of setting ride height first.read service manual first.What don't have one! get one! I think this is the right track to run down.Put the front tire on the back and maybe a 225 60 15 or equivalent on the front. When I set mine up as per manual. FULL TANK OF GAS! or about 120 lbs junk in the trunk.or may be the wife! think she'll go for it? 2 or 4 jack stands mason string strung front to back,2 for each side. remove trim rings.set strings 6-8 in from wheel.set sting height to center of hubs.Back end of car car is more than likely true. wheels true? Spin wheels check against string line.Set string line by measuring off back wheel. have someone move the front of the string line until the measurements are equal front and back of the back rim.There is more to it. Read the service manual.Then you know what a shop should do.I know you can get way close than what it is now.As far as the noise I think you will find it as you go. A lot of good advise above. Don' forget to roll and bounce the suspension before aligning. Yes I know there's more to camber and caster .Later
 
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VillaTA

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I got the car back yesterday from the alignment shop. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I had QA1 UCAs installed and the stock idler and pitman arm. It is night and day comparitively. I am so pleased. Also, no more popping noise. I plan to wait until spring to go for any more changes. The steering gear box may get rebuilt next. Maybe. It’s no worse than any other old car I’ve had or driven. I’m just glad it is tracking straight and not darting randomly. There is no substitute for a tech who knows old cars and who is meticulous about getting things right. Thanks to everyone who made suggestions!
 

TomyG

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I just came across a 1970 T/A Box and pitman arm. This was installed in a 73 rallye challenger that had been in a garage for 25 years. Needless to say this box belongs on a T/A ! I am having a problem trying to come up with a value on it? I have done several searches and have not found one for sale. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

moparlee

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I just came across a 1970 T/A Box and pitman arm. This was installed in a 73 rallye challenger that had been in a garage for 25 years. Needless to say this box belongs on a T/A ! I am having a problem trying to come up with a value on it? I have done several searches and have not found one for sale. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I remember someone posting about a T/A Box this past fall on FaceBook for $1600 and the pitman arm for $250. I have no clue if those $$ are reasonable or not.
 

fastmark

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I remember someone posting about a T/A Box this past fall on FaceBook for $1600 and the pitman arm for $250. I have no clue if those $$ are reasonable or not.

That is a fair price. You won’t see any for sale long enough to be able to buy them. I think there is at least two adds floating around of people looking for them. I had a friend sell one a couple of years ago for $1800. I had another friend looking for one and I saw one complete with pump, arm,hose and cooler for $1600! That was a deal. I called on it less than an hour after it was listed or it would have been gone. He was very pleased as he had an AAR that came with fast ratio steering new.
 
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