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Front End Alignment

MoparCarGuy

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So you ended up with...
CamberCasterToe-In
LEFT-1/8°+3.5°0" total
RIGHT-1/8°+3.75°
The Camber and Toe-In results are optimal for drag racing where minimal camber and toe-in reduces rolling resistance. Not the best camber for handling though.
The range for performance handling would be Camber -0.5° to -1.0° and Toe-In +1/16" to +1/8". Note: Toe-In is a positive number of inches that the tires are angled toward each other.
The Caster is outstanding and will return the wheel to center quickly and provide high-speed stability sometimes referred to as "tracking".
Overall, see how you like the way it drives and tracks down the road. It is the resulting drive experience that really counts.
Can you post your alignment printout for before and after?

*Messing around with the table function is a trip. Not an easy feature to work with. LOL
 
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KennyCuda

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Im gonna ask him again about the toe in- He didn't give me a print out just wrote it down for me. Charged 250 for the alignment
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I had my alignment done today the numbers I got were-- toe in 0--left side caster positive 3-1/2. right side caster positive 3-3/4 left side camber neg 1/8 right side camber neg 1/8 does that sound ok
How does it drive? You really need 1/16 to 1/8 toe in. Also, the caster should be the same side to side. The camber should be -.5 to -.75. The skosh chart gives recommended specs for different driving styles.
 

Xcudame

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I've got over 250,000 miles on my Challenger and she still handles well on an alignment done thirty years ago. I don't remember the numbers except the toe in is 3/32". Cornering I can hang in there with my son's 2015 Scat Pack, but he leaves me in the straight aways!

A steering gear box has a certain number of turns from stop to stop. It's not rocket science finding the center! And tie rods are very easy to adjust. Funny thing is, you get everything adjusted just perfect and you drive on a road with a lot of crown and your steering wheel won't be straight!
 

Challenger RTA

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I have to agree with XCUDAME on the toe. I have moved roads and bridges. One had a super built in. I'll show a couple examples.
Way back( when nylon tires were thing. thumped y thump down the road you go. Anybody that had them knows.) someone that rebuilt cars explain the reason why a car is aligned the way they are. it is to compassionate for the crown in the road for water run off. I would question him why no toe. He might have reason. Try it it might be ok.
On the 1/4 mile track 0 toe is faster. If I recall right.

crown on 20' road surface.jpg


Superelevation.jpeg
 
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cuda joe

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yes those specks sounds good .you don;t need a car running however when adjusting the upper control arm cam bolts you should jack up the car
 

KennyCuda

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I asked the guy today about the toe in and he said he did it to 1/16, I miss understood him earlier
 

i_taz

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As far as shocks, I had the QA1 TS501/901 and on hind sight there weren't as bad as I felt they were mainly because even though they where adj you had to pretty much keep them in the middle setting.
Also, there a racing style with no rebound. It basically feels like your riding on the suspension only, a floating sensation not that I bottom out or anything severe. Whatever you do stay away from the Gabriel Classic. The only good thing is there cheap so you won't mind taking them off there so harsh. Typical old school gas shock...
 
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