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Help Needed: 70 383/727 throttle linkage identification

WDO72

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Hi, and I hope you're doing well.

I purchased a refinished set of throttle kickdown linkage from ebay for a '70 383 4 barrel/'68 727 trans combo. The engine and trans will eventually go into my '72 'cuda. My understanding is that the throttle linkage is for a B body and is complete.

I believe that the 727 is out of a '68 Charger. I'm not exactly sure originally where the 383 came from, yet it is a '70 engine.

I've included some photos for reference.

My questions: Will the linkage set in the attached photo work for my engine/trans configuration, and are all the parts in the photos correct for a 4 barrel 383/727 68-71? (Do the B body and E body interchange or do I need a new set? I was told today that the bracket in the photos is not correct for a 4 barrel and only works for a 2 barrel.)

Any and all help is welcome and greatly appreciated.

Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (1).jpg
Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (7).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (2).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (3).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (4).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (5).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (6).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (8).jpg


Mopar ORIGINAL 1968 - 71 383 4 Barrel Throttle Transmission Kickdown Linkage (9).jpg
 

Xcudame

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It looks correct to me. Yes, B-Body and E-Body kinkdown linkage is interchangeable. See photo from the E-Body Restoration Guide. It's for cruise control, but the linkage and bracket looks correct.

IMG_20240405_175640698.jpg
 

WDO72

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Update: Turns out, I've been informed that the first rod (which connects to the carb link) in the photos above is for a 2 barrel carb not for a 4 barrel carb. Additionally, the throttle bracket is correct for 66-67, but may work for other years. I'll update this thread with photos and info when I receive the correct rod and bracket.
 

Xcudame

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I've almost always had to extend the carburator linkage because of running high rise intakes. Even on my 70 Challenger when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl, I just extended the 2bbl linkage because I've done it so many times!
 

WDO72

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I've almost always had to extend the carburator linkage because of running high rise intakes. Even on my 70 Challenger when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl, I just extended the 2bbl linkage because I've done it so many times!
That's exactly the case with the carb link rod I originally had for the 383. Someone at some point extended it. However, I'm not sure which carb or carbs were in use with the extension rod, as there was a tunnel ram with 2 Holley 650s on the block when I purchased the engine. (Incidentally, I'm not convinced that the engine was running very well for the previous owner, considering the configuration.)
 

Xcudame

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The cool thing is the factory shop manuals have a detailed section on how to adjust the throttle kickdown. Some clever member will probably post pictures or a link before I can.
 

moparleo

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Problem is that there were so many different factory setups over the years that there is no one correct one.
You really need to see an actual setup on a real car like yours.
And they are for factory manifolds. If you use a high rise, there may be problems.

Coverting from a 2 to a 4 is simple if the linkage was alteady there. But buying parts is another story.
Here is a link for many reference downloads.
I prefer to download them as they take up no space, never get dirty or ripped.
Just print the pages you need, take out to the car and look at them as needed. When you are done, recycle them.

Click here -> MyMopar

display-of-factory-kick-down-linkage-types.jpeg
 

pschlosser

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This topic can be really frustrating when you don't have a "correct example car" from which to compare yours to and learn from.

Many of the linkage parts between the 383 and 440 (4-barrel) configurations are interchangeable. Some exceptions are:
1716167900442.png

(image from a 1970 Parts Catalog for reference)

Rod 14-11-9 (P2) is a different part number between 2 and 4 barrel setups. This confirms it's likely a different part. The 4-barrel rod has to reach further than the 2-barrel rod.

Bracket 14-26-6 (T3) is also different (part numbers) between 383-2, 383-4 and 440-4 setups. The upper tab-portion of this bracket - where the throttle cable affixes and containing the threaded post - is longer (further medial) on the 383-2 bracket than the 383-4 bracket. The angle in the bends of the bracket vary between 383 and 440 setups. When bolted into place, the correct bracket places the post (on which Lever 14-26-11 P3 rotates) horizontally.

Rod 14-11-9 (P8) is different between 383 and 440 setups (440 is longer) but the same between all 383 configurations.

In terms of hook-up locations, the 727 transmission did not vary much between 1967 and 1974, so you won't have to adjust for this tranny being a 1967.

I have some of these parts and can take measurements, if there is need. Once you start bolting yours on, and adjusting it to the FSM, it will become evident of any of the parts are wrong.
 
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WDO72

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Thank you, Moparleo & Pschlosser. Your help and info is much appreciated.
 

moparleo

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You didn't say what carb and intake you are dealing with. If they are stock you only need the carb and intake manifold for tesing.
Just sit the intake on your work bench and a couple of bolts for the carb.
The kickdown is seperate and can be worked out later.
Just mount the bracket to the intake and start testing the different linkage parts to the carb.
. The geometry is what is importatnt.
Youtube is a good resource for pictures as well.
 
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Xcudame

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There is adjustment in the vertical rod coming up from the transmission up the back of the block. the height difference between a RB block and a B block is only .545". Plus the piece that goes from the
 

Xcudame

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top bell crank to the carb throttle bolt is adjustable. In most of my situations, I'm running a Thermoquad on a highrise intake. So I'm always extended the top arm. I usually weld it, grind it and cover my weld with shrink wrap tubing.
 
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