In-line tube brake valves

[kevinede1]

Good morning all. Does someone have a detailed picture of how the brake line run into the valves? I have a 73 rear drum and front disk challenger. The original proportioning valve is no longer available and I got the BLK-251 and BLK 252 from in-line tube (what they recommended). I was told the 252 is for the rear but the fitting is bigger on my brake line than what’s on the valve.
Would like to know what goes where from master on down.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Kevin

 

[Chryco Psycho]

that is the 70 only 2 part system , you can follow the 70 service manual & you need different tubes or will need to make them .

 

[Rapidfire]

This might help. 70 challenger front disc. Looks like you have the valve with the bracket mounted upside down?

 

[kevinede1]

This might help. 70 challenger front disc. Looks like you have the valve with the bracket mounted upside down?

Thanks, I probably do have it upside down. By the looks of the pic there is a small line going from one to the other correct? And you have 2 plugs? One in each? I’m trying to follow where the lines go. I can get a few but a couple on the far side are hard to see. Sorry to be a pain but the guy from inline said there were diagrams on their website but I can’t find them.

 

[Rapidfire]

Thanks, I probably do have it upside down. By the looks of the pic there is a small line going from one to the other correct? And you have 2 plugs? One in each? I’m trying to follow where the lines go. I can get a few but a couple on the far side are hard to see. Sorry to be a pain but the guy from inline said there were diagrams on their website but I can’t find them.

I can get you some more pics this week no problem. I converted to front disc and used inline like you are and works great, you just have to get yours plumbed correctly. Yes, you will need a line from one block to the other.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

I made these labeled pictures for reference a few months ago. My Cuda was a factory 11" front/rear drum brake car. My brake lines are original so some of the brake line fittings are larger. Several adapters had to be used to reduce 7/16"-24 to 3/8"-24 for some of the connections. I am running the later model factory 11-7/8" discs with matching caliper adapters in front using 1973 spindles. The rear brakes are the factory 11"x2-1/2" drums, same as T/A-AAR. I had issues with the reproduction combination/metering valve setup and ended up changing it out for a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. It is mounted in the factory valve's hole in the fender. I will also be adding my Roll Control (Line Lock) solenoid and bleeding the brakes this week.

The info below should help in getting you connected.

 

[kevinede1]

I made these labeled pictures for reference a few months ago. My Cuda was a factory 11" front/rear drum brake car. My brake lines are original so some of the brake line fittings are larger. Several adapters had to be used to reduce 7/16"-24 to 3/8"-24 for some of the connections. I am running the later model factory 11-7/8" discs with matching caliper adapters in front using 1973 spindles. The rear brakes are the factory 11"x2-1/2" drums, same as T/A-AAR. I had issues with the reproduction combination/metering valve setup and ended up changing it out for a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. It is mounted in the factory valve's hole in the fender. I will also be adding my Roll Control (Line Lock) solenoid and bleeding the brakes this week.

The info below should help in getting you connected.

View attachment 96195

View attachment 96196 View attachment 96197

View attachment 96199 View attachment 96200

Thank you, this is pretty much what I was hoping someone was able to provide, and then some with the detailed callouts. I will have to look for the adapters for my rear line coming in. What issues did you have that caused you to switch to Wilwood valve?
Thanks again, Kevin

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Thank you, this is pretty much what I was hoping someone was able to provide, and then some with the detailed callouts. I will have to look for the adapters for my rear line coming in. What issues did you have that caused you to switch to Wilwood valve?
Thanks again, Kevin

I had a spongy pedal even after putting in the repro factory combination/metering valve. I cannot say the valve was the problem yet as I have not connected the master cylinder to the Wilwood valve and bled the brakes yet. I will post something on this thread if the new valve solved the spongy pedal issue. I am also going to double-check the power brake booster rod to master cylinder piston clearance to make sure the piston is not "pre-loaded" by the booster rod. I have bled the brakes several times and the pedal stayed spongy and went to the floor.