Inner and Outer Tie Rod Position

[Tirekickertoo]

Hello,
Would someone send me pictures of the position of the inner and outer tie rod ends as they are connected to the drag link. I found a drawing in the shop manual but want to see a better example of this. Also are the tie rod adjusting sleeve suppose to be parallel with the ground or have a downward angle from the drag link when the car is fully sitting on the ground?

Thank you,

Tirekickertoo

 

[moparleo]

That is going to depend on what the ride height is set to. If the car is raised, the tie rods will slant down from the draglink to the lower ball joint/tie rod ends.

 

[Tirekickertoo]

That is going to depend on what the ride height is set to. If the car is raised, the tie rods will slant down from the draglink to the lower ball joint/tie rod ends.

Hi Moparleo,
Thank you for the advice and attachment. We are working closely with the shop manual to determine the cause of a severe front end vibration issue at about 50 to 55 MPH. All steering components were replaced not too long ago. It appears and feels to be the drivers front, but not certain. The drive line was checked and it's not a drive shaft vibration. With other documentation I received, there may be a chance I installed incorrect spindles in the front when converting from drum to disc brakes? We'll be digging into this very soon. The car will be going to an alignment shop.

Thanks for the information,

Tirekickertoo

 

[moparleo]

What tires and wheels do you have on the front right now ? Was the vibration there before you replaced any parts ?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Tie rods follow lower control arms

 

[Tirekickertoo]

What tires and wheels do you have on the front right now ? Was the vibration there before you replaced any parts ?

Hi moparleo,
Sorry for the delay returning your message. The problem started when we were running 14" rims. The rims came with the car when purchased and a tire shop informed us that one of the rims was slightly bent. The front end of the car was completely rebuilt. New MOOG problem solver eccentric bushings for the upper control arms, new QA1 lower control arms, new Qa1 adjustable strut rods, new Moog ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm and idler arm. A new power steering gearbox was also installed. This year we are running 18" rims. The severe vibration is still there (between 50 and 60 MPH). We had the transmission driveline checked, the bushing/sleeve needed to be changed where the drive shaft yoke slides into the end of the transmission. The driveline angle is correct. We just installed new E-body disc brake spindles from Doctor Diff. There were questions about the used disc brake spindles I installed when converting this car from drum to disc brake. There is a slight difference in the position of the caster comparing the used disc brake spindles to the new Doctor Diff disc brake spindles. I'm not sure if this will make a difference or not? Now the big question! We found a new alignment shop in our area that is familiar with old Mopar's. With all the new components mentioned and running 18' radial tires, the shop cannot use the original factory alignment specs (bias tires). In other fourms, the following alignment recommendations were given running 18" rims/tires: positive castor +3 degrees or higher as long as you are even on both sides. 1/2 degree negative camber (both sides). Between 1/16 and 1/8 toe in for 18" low profile tires. This is where we are at this point. We finished putting the car back together last night. It will be going to the alignment shop this week.

Regards,

Tirekickertoo

 

[moparleo]

Those alignment specs will be fine. The specs are not based on tire/wheel size. Ride height and the wheels/tires being all the same size/type is. A lot of people like to stagger their sizes and that does present some problems when aligning the vehicle.
Going straight is not the problem with alignments it is the angles that are changing when turning.
Was all of this work done at once? Was the vibration there before ? Diagnosing any kind of problem being it a vibration, engine performance, electrical etc... is always a one step at a time process. When you make many changes at once, it is very difficult to try to zero in on a problem. It could be one or many different problems all at once.
If you think the vibration is coming from one side, one thing that can be done is to swap components ( rotors/drums/wheels etc..) and see if the problem follows the parts. This will quickly narrow down your search. If it doesn't, you have eliminated those parts and can now look elsewhere.
A vibration is caused by loose, bent, out of balance parts. Alignment does not cause vibrations. Alignment is only a set of angles.

 

[heminut]

A vibration is caused by loose, bent, out of balance parts. Alignment does not cause vibrations. Alignment is only a set of angles.

But alignment angles can lessen or aggravate the problem!

 

[moparleo]

Sure if it is toe-d in or out in inches. Extremes in caster. Again does not cause the problem, but will allow it to worsen in the extreme. Not really the situation here...

 

[Challenger RTA]

I think something is wallered out and you have to find it.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Why MOOG problem solver eccentric bushings ? I would check the last thing you touched first and check all the following. up arm bushing hole worn? ball joint socket worn? where the strut rods mounts, cracked K frame or LCA? Lower control arm shaft or hole worn? inner and outer tie rod ends socket wore? pitman arm and idler arm sockets and bolt hole worn? power steering gearbox bolts tight and mount not cracked? steering cup and shoes worn? Steering shaft and splines on steering wheel worn? This E-body disc brake spindles from Doctor Diff E-body, if you gave him the right info good chance they are right. jack car up check by hand for bearing play,there should really be none. with out looking it up I think it's 6 lbs pull on the wheel bearing. to check use a fish scale on a wheel stud. just because a torque wrench gives you a reading doesn't mean it's tight. striped,galled threads or dirt. Spring rate,the right torsion bars. torsion bar sockets and adj bolts worn? I have take the lower ball joint anti sway bar off back of ride height bolt. and was able to remove torsion bar. I would check all of this. If you can't find the problem. start pulling measurements. IT'S like a new old girl friend. You can see the miles but do you really know what it's been through!