inner fenders

[1968340S]

I need to install new inner fenders in my 74 Challenger. The car is a roller right now.....no engine.

The car is secured and level on blocks on the rear frame and on the front of the frame.

I also had to blocked underneath the K-frame. The existing inner fenders have started to create a tear and pull away from the front cowl and with out blocking underneath the K-frame they would even pull away a little more.

My question is....this the proper way seceure the car to remove and install new inner fenders.

Chris

 

[DetMatt1]

Sounds right, can you post a couple of pics, it would help. I like to create some referance points/measurements to make sure the after matches the before.

 

[Belgium Chally]

I'm in the same phase of welding my new front panels. What should I think about? How do I make sure they are alligned correctly?

Per

 

[1968340S]

Looks like you doing a complete resto....nice job.
I have my car secured close to the way you have yours. I'm just concered that once I start to cut out the spotwelds with a remover that my car might shift? I don't know if the inner fenders also support the frame from pulling down...or just help with the radaitor support? I was going to match the holes cut from the old inner finder and use as a templet for the new inner fenders...drill small holes and weld. How did you remove your inner fenders?

I'm not doing a complete resto. on this car....sending some pictures of the condition and what the previous owner did...don't laugh.

 

[Belgium Chally]

I drilled out the spotwelds with a drillbit, went very good. I don't think you have to worry about any structureproblems because you are removing the innerfenders.

Per

 

[batman7349]

I can't wait to show you what the previous owner did on my 73 Challenger. I'll post them shortly.

 

[burdar]

I'm not a bodyman by any means so take that for what it's worth. Here are a few pics of what the bodyshop did on my car to make sure nothing shifted.

 

[ramenth]

I'm not a bodyman by any means so take that for what it's worth. Here are a few pics of what the bodyshop did on my car to make sure nothing shifted.

That's not a bad idea to keep everything square before you start cutting.

Measurements are the key, though! Measure, measure and keep measuring. If everything is aligned properly it will be square (The same distance measured between two exact points on opposite corners.) I've put up some reference photos in this link to help another member

http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11448#post11448

and Batman7349 did a nice job of jumping in with the underside frame measurements taken from the manual. You're allowed 3mm from spec. Sheetmetal adjustment will make up for it.

Any way you can keep the frame rails supported during this is going to be a boon to getting the aprons in. The only thing I might suggest, though, is take a nice long look at the rails themselves. If the sag is too great make sure the rails haven't buckled. It's unlikely, from your pics, but it can happen.

 

[1968340S]

I really need to have proper support...the braces/supports are an excellent idea. I'm not going to remove the K-frame or suspension....as shown on the other restro. pictures...which looks very nice by the way.

If I don't support below the K-frame...there is a noticeable sag of the front rails....which causes the inner fenders to pull away from the cowl. The inner fenders are not attached to the shock towers...the spot welds have broke...and the weight is a concern.

I'll measure refrence points and note.

 

[ramenth]

I really need to have proper support...the braces/supports are an excellent idea. I'm not going to remove the K-frame or suspension....as shown on the other restro. pictures...which looks very nice by the way.

If I don't support below the K-frame...there is a noticeable sag of the front rails....which causes the inner fenders to pull away from the cowl. The inner fenders are not attached to the shock towers...the spot welds have broke...and the weight is a concern.

I'll measure refrence points and note.

Personally, I'd drop the K-frame. Too much weight on the rails, pulling down on 'em.

 

[Cranky]

The rails have more stiffness than most give credit for....and so many have cut out the inner fenders in race cars and didn't reinforce anything. Not saying it's right, but with the engine and suspension out, the K frame isn't going to have much effect on the rails if any.....

 

[ramenth]

The rails have more stiffness than most give credit for....and so many have cut out the inner fenders in race cars and didn't reinforce anything. Not saying it's right, but with the engine and suspension out, the K frame isn't going to have much effect on the rails if any.....

Actually, I'll disagree with that statement to a certain extent. The K-frame and the core support in their current locations are keeping the rails square. Strip the car down to just the rails; no aprons, no core support, no k-frame and you'll be able to move the rails in and out, without a lot of force. You'll also be able to move 'em up and down, as witnessed by this discussion: without the aprons attached the rails are dropping.

Yes, the rails are stiff, thanks to the box design. But when they start moving it's a matter of keeping things square. It'd be a real b**** to get the aprons welded in and find that you've kicked the rails over by a enough to keep the K-frame from bolting in properly, or if it does, the car never takes an alignment 'cause now SAI is off.

I've seen the above happen in the collision shops I've worked in. Guys get so busy welding, they forget to check squares. Everything looks good, but once they start bolting things back together, nothing lines up.

 

[Cranky]

Actually, I'll disagree with that statement to a certain extent. The K-frame and the core support in their current locations are keeping the rails square. Strip the car down to just the rails; no aprons, no core support, no k-frame and you'll be able to move the rails in and out, without a lot of force. You'll also be able to move 'em up and down, as witnessed by this discussion: without the aprons attached the rails are dropping.

Yes, the rails are stiff, thanks to the box design. But when they start moving it's a matter of keeping things square. It'd be a real b**** to get the aprons welded in and find that you've kicked the rails over by a enough to keep the K-frame from bolting in properly, or if it does, the car never takes an alignment 'cause now SAI is off.

I've seen the above happen in the collision shops I've worked in. Guys get so busy welding, they forget to check squares. Everything looks good, but once they start bolting things back together, nothing lines up.

I think you misunderstood what I was saying. One of the posters was worried about the weight of the K having an effect on the rails and I was trying to convey that the K hanging on them without the inner fenders being in place would not. Besides that, the rails are supposed to be squared without the K in place. I've found so many K frames that have been abused in one form or another that I wouldn't use it as a device to square them. Also, I've pulled K frames from one car to install into another and it didn't fit....both cars were never wrecked and both were E body....just a mention....