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just picked up a tore down 440 this past weekend

volcanocar

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just got a 78 440 block, cast crank, 452 heads that already have upgraded valve springs.
any advice on some simple things to get done while doing the rebuild?
i know that the late 70s engines are a low compression 8:1 set up. the engine will need to be bored a little so a new set of pistons will be a necessity, will a standard flat top get me close to 10:1?
im also thinking about getting the mopar template to open it a bit, i know the templates are very conservative in the amout they remove and thats fine because its going to be a street motor first and foremost.

any other short block or head work that would be worth while? im not looking for crazy power just want to get it together and start having fun.
 

Adam

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Summit Racing has a good selection of pistons, and they have a compression calculator at the bottom of each piston description, but you need to figure Deck Clearance for that piston.

You will need to do a little math here, but it is easy. To find out how far down in the bore a particular piston will be. Use this formula (stock 440 numbers used here):
1/2 the stroke = 1.875
+ rod length = 6.76
+ the compression height of the piston (usually listed in the piston's description)
- deck height = 10.725
= (this number is how far down in the bore the piston will be).

A 452 head typically has an 81 cc chamber, give or take.
A head gasket will be .039 or .040 compressed.
The stock bore is 4.320, so .030 over is 4.350

Now you can plug those numbers into the Compression calculator, and find a piston you want.

The 452 heads are good heads, but mine were very crude castings. They will benefit from a mild port match to both the intake and exhaust gaskets (my exhaust ports were badly aligned).

Summit also has a Charts & Guides tab on the piston page. For example the Speed Pro L2355F30 is a .030 over forged piston that will get you 10.17 CR with a 78 cc head, 9.75 with an 81 cc head, and 9.37 CR with an 88 cc head. You will have to check your heads to know for sure.

Lastly, whatever new pistons you get will surely not weigh the same as the factory slugs, make sure to get the rotating assembly balanced.
 
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volcanocar

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thanks for the heads up on the compression calculator, thats exactly what i needed.
and as far as the porting goes im in agreement with port matching will probably be the most important thing to check.
what ever i decide to do for rods and pistons i will have shop balance it... unfortunately its only a cast crank but im not going crazy with so i should be more than fine. thanks for the info guys
i already have a 509 cam tucked away in storage with the car, and im looking for an intake now. im probably going to look for something like a torker intake although i was playing with the idea of a tunnel ram... ive not decided yet.
 

volcanocar

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where can i get the porting templates from? all the internet searches i attempt just seem to be bringing up forums where they were mentioned.
 

volcanocar

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apparently its a trial of the gods to get those porting templates lol. that first website cancelled my order because they were out of stock, a second company I tried refunded my money and said they no longer carry them... I checked 440 source and mancini and neither sell them either.
is ebay my last option?
 

Chryco Psycho

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I still have a set of them , I doubt they have been produced for 20 years now , most of the performance parts are for newer engines now , look at the Purple shaft cams that wer updated back in the mid 70s . This is all ancient technology now !!
Really these templates are very basic & just cover the area behind the seat , do not cut into the short side floor you want this as high as possible , use a wing shape around the guides round where the flow hits the guide & knife edge on the back side of the guide , I also create a long & short side of the wing around the intake guide to increase speed on the long side just like a wing this will create swirl into the cylinder aiding atomization & flow around the valve into the cylinder . You need to make a smooth blend from the roof into the seat so the lip is gone behind the seat . Widening the port beside the pushrod I try to even the wall so it is at least as wide at the top as the middle of the port , this creates a venturi so making extra wide reduces the venturi effect so do not get carried away .
On the exhaust side I seriously widen the port exit again making a wing shape around the guide making a groove around the guide area I widen the port approx 1/4 " ^ smooth a raise the roof 1/8 & matcht the headers or manifolds so there is no restriction there .
I hops this helps , CP
 

Chryco Psycho

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PS I Would port the heads for you but the cost to get either me or the heads in the same place would not be worthwhile !
 

volcanocar

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hey chryco you're in panama? I'm actually from Orlando and living temporarily in new Orleans for work.
thanks for the porting tips though, I have read a ton about porting and know a lot in theory but have never had the opportunity to practice.
I figure the porting templates are probably very conservative in the amount they remove but I just hope they will give me a rough idea.
 

volcanocar

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I just looked up some pictures and I saw what you mean about the wing shape with a tapered point towards the valve opening... so then logic would dictate that the wing shape would be reversed on the exaust side with the pointed edge going towards the headers?
 

Chryco Psycho

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true the wing shape is always the same pointing into the flow so the knife edge will point towards the valve on the intake & into the header on the exhaust side
 

upnover

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either deck the block or cut the sh@t out of the head mounting surface to get some compression
 

Chryco Psycho

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You can cut the deck down to 10.75 no problem , you cannot take a lot of the head surface without compromising the head .
 

volcanocar

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reviving an old thread here...
I have a decent grasp of porting these heads now, after I don't know how many hours of grinding on them.
I am still not done as I only get to work on them here and there on the weekend when I'm not out of town on work.
that being said who here knows how thin is safe on the intake port walls?
on the 440 heads, more specifically these 452 heads the intake runner has a slight curve to it and I was wanting to know how much can be taken out of the walls to help straighten the air shot?
now I'm making every effort to be careful here (I'm not grinding just to make big ports) and if there are objections or concerns as to the benefit of even bothering with this aspect of the head then I would appreciate to hear that as well.
thanks folks
 
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