Please help! 1970 Barracuda Exhaust Stud issue

[RedFoxesTco]

I broke off an exhaust stud while removing the old ones. 383 engine, still in car. It’s the second to last one on passenger side. Followed other users threads on drilling and extracting but no use.
- Is there any way for me to salvage this?
-Or will I have to remove the head and take to machine shop?

-Also, is it possible to remove without removing engine? Just installed new valley pan, manifold and carb. Am I going to have to get a new valley pan if so?

Thanks in advance for the help and advice. It’s was trying to replace manifold gaskets as I’ve had exhaust leaks

Oh! And is this a water port? Or can I leave it as is, deal with exhaust leak and sort out later?

 

[budascuda]

Hi,
do yo have experience dealing with things like this?
it looks like you have enough room to remove the broken stud without removing the head.

 

[RedFoxesTco]

Hi,
do yo have experience dealing with things like this?
it looks like you have enough room to remove the broken stud without removing the head.

I don’t have experience removing broken studs. I did drill up to 1/4 then tried to use a left-handed bit and then a tap, turning counter clock wise.

I don’t know if you can tell from the photos, but I feel I drilled too deep. I do have enough room to drill/use a tap. If there is a solution that doesn’t involve a Heli coil to remove what’s left of the bolt, id be grateful for any advice!

 

[budascuda]

The broken piece has to get loosened up in its place first, hitting, heating and quenching will accomplish that, THEN, you can use a reverse tap..
That's one way, there are other methods as well.
Have a look at youtube!

 

[RedFoxesTco]

The broken piece has to get loosened up in its place first, hitting, heating and quenching will accomplish that, THEN, you can use a reverse tap..
That's one way, there are other methods as well.
Have a look at youtube!

Ive researched, read there forum, watched YouTube videos. Ive hit, heated and quenched. The Reverse tap I'm afraid might be too large and the hole too close to the threads. That is my concern

 

[Juan Veldez]

I don’t have experience removing broken studs. I did drill up to 1/4 then tried to use a left-handed bit and then a tap, turning counter clock wise.

I don’t know if you can tell from the photos, but I feel I drilled too deep. I do have enough room to drill/use a tap. If there is a solution that doesn’t involve a Heli coil to remove what’s left of the bolt, id be grateful for any advice!

This is what I use. Afer you drill the correct size hole (per back of this pack), you hammer it in, and turn it while still hitting it with a hammer. Normally removes it.

 

[RedFoxesTco]

View attachment 97505
This is what I use. Afer you drill the correct size hole (per back of this pack), you hammer it in, and turn it while still hitting it with a hammer. Normally removes it.

I have those- my concern is that my hole is both off center and too deep

 

[budascuda]

You know, if the cost is not an obstacle, you might want to consider having your car towed to a shop, and they can do the work without dismantling the motor. They have the tools and the experience.

unless you are determined to do the work yourself. Is that the case?

 

[RedFoxesTco]

You know, if the cost is not an obstacle, you might want to consider having your car towed to a shop, and they can do the work without dismantling the motor. They have the tools and the experience.

unless you are determined to do the work yourself. Is that the case?

Definitely am not in a place to have car taken in; also in California where automotive costs are pretty steep

 

[budascuda]

One could do the following, not saying you should, you can think about it first and if you think it makes sense to you, then you can carry on.

With this method, you actually want the hole to be off center.

Gradually enlarge the hole in the broken stud by indexing up your drill bits, make sure you don't drill too far in.
Since the hole is off center, by making the hole larger, You will eventually come closer to the threads on one side. It's ok if the hole includes a bit of the cylinder threads. In fact that will allow penetrating oil to go between the threads.
Soak overnight with wd40.
Start by hitting the thicker wall of the stud toward the thinner side,
This will make the stud to collapse in on itself.
You know the rest.

 

[budascuda]

This has worked for me every time, I know it's different than what people think, but this will get the stud out

Also, once the piece is out, you can see if you initially drilled too deep

 

[RedFoxesTco]

This has worked for me every time, I know it's different than what people think, but this will get the stud out

Also, once the piece is out, you can see if you initially drilled too deep

Thank you!! I will sleep on it but seems like the best choice and you make clear sense in your explanation

 

[Juan Veldez]

One could do the following, not saying you should, you can think about it first and if you think it makes sense to you, then you can carry on.

With this method, you actually want the hole to be off center.

Gradually enlarge the hole in the broken stud by indexing up your drill bits, make sure you don't drill too far in.
Since the hole is off center, by making the hole larger, You will eventually come closer to the threads on one side. It's ok if the hole includes a bit of the cylinder threads. In fact that will allow penetrating oil to go between the threads.
Soak overnight with wd40.
Start by hitting the thicker wall of the stud toward the thinner side,
This will make the stud to collapse in on itself.
You know the rest.View attachment 97525

Not even gonna comment on what it looks like you drew...........

 

[budascuda]

Not even gonna comment on what it looks like you drew...........

I was at Tim Horton's, the famous Canadian coffee / donut shop, the equivalent of Cream Puffs in the US. If I am not mistaken, anyway, I was having a coffee and didn't have any paper to write on, except the paper bag the donut came in, so, sorry.
But somehow I have this uneasy feeling that the comment was directed more at me, personally

 

[budascuda]

Thank you!! I will sleep on it but seems like the best choice and you make clear sense in your explanation

I wish you the best of luck.
if it's been done by someone else, it could be done by you too.

 

[Challenger RTA]

One could do the following, not saying you should, you can think about it first and if you think it makes sense to you, then you can carry on.

With this method, you actually want the hole to be off center.

Gradually enlarge the hole in the broken stud by indexing up your drill bits, make sure you don't drill too far in.
Since the hole is off center, by making the hole larger, You will eventually come closer to the threads on one side. It's ok if the hole includes a bit of the cylinder threads. In fact that will allow penetrating oil to go between the threads.
Soak overnight with wd40.
Start by hitting the thicker wall of the stud toward the thinner side,
This will make the stud to collapse in on itself.
You know the rest.View attachment 97525

Been there done this. What budscuda said is all true. Fist off I would have smack it very hard with fist maul and a punch. that a lot of times will brake it loose. and walked out with a chisel.spray with KROIL ,loosey-goosey,Pb blast,there are some others. then heating and cooling. sometimes keep doing it.things to condenser. when the walls of the bolt get thin .you put the easy out in it tightens up the threads. You are better off to keep drilling until you touch the threads.also go all the way through the stud.heat with torch can be propane let cool.acetylene gets a lot hotter. do a couple of times. expansion and contraction is what breaks it loose.if you feel conferrable quench it. Remember cast is very tough and it can break like glass. The second thing I would have done after smacking it would be to weld a nut on through the center. One job a pipe line. I was put with the heavy mechanic.He was good and big 6'6". He would eat 2 chickens for dinner. I had to go where he couldn't. He showed me how to do it. If there is enough to weld to it can be done. I seen him do it with the stud down in 1/4". I though I was the cat's meow when I worked a machine shop drilling studs out in 10- 15 minutes by hand. It takes a good eye.UNTIL I meet A good old boy miner from WV.

 

[EW1BH27]

I think the picture comment was towards 1 & 2 together looking like a female's anatomy, nothing personal towards you. Sorry for going off topic, good luck with the stud removal. Please let us know how you make out.

 

[RJHJR]

After you get your hole drilled...

Long before I had white hair I learned the bees wax trick from an older gentleman with white hair. Has to be real bees wax. Get it hot, get bees wax on it, they way it moves is remarkable. It'll wick its way up or down the threads. Let it cool. Repeat. Then try to turn it.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I broke off an exhaust stud while removing the old ones. 383 engine, still in car. It’s the second to last one on passenger side. Followed other users threads on drilling and extracting but no use.
- Is there any way for me to salvage this?
-Or will I have to remove the head and take to machine shop?

-Also, is it possible to remove without removing engine? Just installed new valley pan, manifold and carb. Am I going to have to get a new valley pan if so?

Thanks in advance for the help and advice. It’s was trying to replace manifold gaskets as I’ve had exhaust leaks

Oh! And is this a water port? Or can I leave it as is, deal with exhaust leak and sort out later?

View attachment 97501

View attachment 97502

View attachment 97503

If the stud is in the same condition as in the picture.a nut can be welded to it by someone.

 

[budascuda]

I think the picture comment was towards 1 & 2 together looking like a female's anatomy, nothing personal towards you. Sorry for going off topic, good luck with the stud removal. Please let us know how you make out.

I see it too now, that's what Juan Valdez was talking about, man..... You guys have a wild imagination!