Power Steering Power Booster Replacement

[BluRaySRT]

I have a leaking power brake booster in my Cuda that needs replacement. On the one hand it looks pretty straightforward, but accessing the four bolts way under the dash looks very challenging.

I'm hoping that someone else has done this repair and can share that experience with me in order to avoid making mistakes dur to inexperience with this repair.

Thanks

 

[pschlosser]

If you need to remove the power brake booster (or direct manual drum master cylinder) the 4 interior bolts are hard to avoid.

What works best, IMO, is dropping the steering column, then using a 3/8 right angle air ratchet to loosen and remove those 4 bolts.

The job can be done without removing the dash pad, but unless you have a lift, expect to spend time on your back, looking under the dash, and in painful body positions.

 

[Challenger RTA]

This is where you are going. Unless your 18 and 125LB. Pull the seat it makes it a lot easier.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Question where is it leaking? Did you loose all the power assets? You should here air at times under the dash. That's the booster breathing.

 

[BluRaySRT]

If you need to remove the power brake booster (or direct manual drum master cylinder) the 4 interior bolts are hard to avoid.

What works best, IMO, is dropping the steering column, then using a 3/8 right angle air ratchet to loosen and remove those 4 bolts.

The job can be done without removing the dash pad, but unless you have a lift, expect to spend time on your back, looking under the dash, and in painful body positions.
View attachment 127495

Excellent advice! Just what I was looking for. Thanks so much!!!

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Yes, as @Challenger RTA said, remove the driver's seat to save your back. You should be able to easily access the four nuts with a ratchet, swivel joint adapter, and deep well socket. Remove the through-bolt for the pedal linkage, too.

 

[BluRaySRT]

Question where is it leaking? Did you loose all the power assets? You should here air at times under the dash. That's the booster breathing.

I can't locate where the booster is leaking. The only thing connected to it is the hose from the intake manifold and all connections. I tested the hose. I also removed the check valve from the booster and tested it. It seems fine. In addition to the poor braking, I was told to hold the brake down and then turn off the car. The booster should hold vacuum for at least 30 seconds. In my case, the brake pedal pushes up on my foot. I was told that this is an indication that the booster is bad. I have no logical explanation as to why my excellent brakes turned to crap.

Oh and I did a vacuum test on the booster. It held the vacuum that I had created. It released normally when the brake was depressed.

I have not bled the brakes yet. Could air in the line create this problem? Thanks for whatever advice you can provide.

 

[BluRaySRT]

Yes, as @Challenger RTA said, remove the driver's seat to save your back. You should be able to easily access the four nuts with a ratchet, swivel joint adapter, and deep well socket. Remove the through-bolt for the pedal linkage, too.

View attachment 127522 View attachment 127523

View attachment 127525

Thanks for the pics. Do you agree with

pschlosser comments to remove brake pedal assembly to gain better access. Someone told me to drop the steering column, but that does not seem necessary if I follow your and pschlosser's steps. I agree about the seat... it's a six way so heavy!​

pschlosser​

 

[MoparCarGuy]

You need to remove the brake pedal "through-bolt" (automatic transmission car) and the bracket (pivot) through-bolt to allow the brake booster to be removed.
You will figure it out once you get started. Most of the hardware is pretty easy to get to, just awkward if you do not remove the driver's seat.
You do not have to remove the steering column. Some do to get more working room.

 

[Challenger RTA]

As you said. the brake pedal pushes up on my foot. That is because the vacuum for boost is being used up. If a motor shuts off there is only a limited amount of boost left. 3 or 4 braking attempts with boost. Then your back to manual brakes. That being said there is a breather on the inside of the car. That's why I ask if you could hear air inside when pushing on the brake. The should be air going in and out of the breather part. Below is what is inside. if the diaphragm or case leaks you have nothing. It might be just sticking from sitting. Though I had a picture of the breather apart. The booster will rust on the bottom were moister collects.

 

[BluRaySRT]

You need to remove the brake pedal "through-bolt" (automatic transmission car) and the bracket (pivot) through-bolt to allow the brake booster to be removed.
You will figure it out once you get started. Most of the hardware is pretty easy to get to, just awkward if you do not remove the driver's seat.
You do not have to remove the steering column. Some do to get more working room.
View attachment 127537 View attachment 127541

Thank you for the additional info. I'm starting today on the repair. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[BluRaySRT]

You need to remove the brake pedal "through-bolt" (automatic transmission car) and the bracket (pivot) through-bolt to allow the brake booster to be removed.
You will figure it out once you get started. Most of the hardware is pretty easy to get to, just awkward if you do not remove the driver's seat.
You do not have to remove the steering column. Some do to get more working room.
View attachment 127537 View attachment 127541

Thanks so much for the pictures. That's helps my confidence in being successful. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

When you reassemble the brake pedal through bolt, be sure to put a little bit of grease on the shaft. They go dry and will squeak when you apply the brakes.