Six Pack idling rich

[fasjac]

The factory cams used a 114 cl , so the vacuum was usually 15 or higher , you are doing well to get 12" & a lot of that has to do with the larger CI still I bet there is more in your set up by tuning it further

Agreed. I’m gonna continue on with the process. Get fuel pressure under control and recheck timing.etc. I will keep you posted. Again thanks to all for sharing the knowledge!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you are welcome , let me know what you find

 

[Cratos]

I’m pulling 15 in vac on my 383 six-pack with a stock six-pack cam with a 112 centerline and roads lifters.

also running carter electric in the rear with 5/16 line to carter mechanical pump then regulated to 6 psi.

runs about 12-1 (still rich,) with front and rear jet plate. With#82 jets and center running #62 jets.

 

[fasjac]

Good info. With one of our guages from the shop, fuel pressure is just shy of 8psi. Still a little too much imo. Also found the promax paperwork.
My set up is exactly like yours jet wise.
I adjust the front carb screws to 1 turn out. They were 1 3/4 before I started. Center is 1 1/2 turns out and the promax plate likes 1/2 turn out??? This made the vacuum go to 12.5 seems to be idling a lot less rich now. I took it out for a test run and it went very well.
No stumbling or hesitation, pulls extremely hard on wot. I’m still debating on putting the factory baseplate back on the rear carb. This really the first time I’ve messed with anything since initial install. I will be trying out autolite plugs hopefully this weekend. As I’ve been a champion fan forever.
Thanks for sharing that information!

 

[fasjac]

Sorry for the duplicate pic

 

[i_taz]

I've been chasing an pretty bad exhaust smell problem w/a Edelbrock 1411 that I'm just about given up on but backing the pressure off to 3 - 4PSI helped with half the problem and adjusting the floats not at the end of the float but half way back helped another 25%....Runs ok though....plugs were always pristine

 

[fasjac]

Ok, after I took for the test run (ran great) #1 & #2 plugs were clean. Inspection before was pretty much black but, not wet. I just changed (today) the champions to autolite gapped at.035.
I haven’t run it yet. As I’ve leaned it out on idle for sure, it may be too lean! I need to know what a/f ratio is. I’m going to put it on a dyno Asap. I know a couple guys in town that have em.
My gut is telling the outboard carbs are a little lean now. I was just using the increase in vacuum on this adjustment
This is the first time the carbs have been messed with since the original build many years ago.
It st still smells like a hotrod as it should though. Just not as rich ha!
I’ll share my results as quick as I can.
Thanks for all the feedback.

 

[Mopar okie]

Be sure outer throttle butterflies are closing all the way on outer carbs, also on big lift cam cars you can drill holes in center carb butterflies start with 1/16 this will let more air pass and less fuel.

 

[rklein71]

Ok, after I took for the test run (ran great) #1 & #2 plugs were clean. Inspection before was pretty much black but, not wet. I just changed (today) the champions to autolite gapped at.035.
I haven’t run it yet. As I’ve leaned it out on idle for sure, it may be too lean! I need to know what a/f ratio is. I’m going to put it on a dyno Asap. I know a couple guys in town that have em.
My gut is telling the outboard carbs are a little lean now. I was just using the increase in vacuum on this adjustment
This is the first time the carbs have been messed with since the original build many years ago.
It st still smells like a hotrod as it should though. Just not as rich ha!
I’ll share my results as quick as I can.
Thanks for all the feedback.

Although the idle circuit has some impact on part time throttle air fuel mixtures, and even less for WOT, your jetting controls WOT air fuel ratios and your power valve assists in part time throttle. The outboard idle circuitry allows some usage of the fuel in the outboard floats in the event you don't open up the outboards for a long time, like that happens. Anyhow, the factory designed it this way. You should be able to open up the center idle mixture screws and kill the engine, same when you close the middle idle screws. If both these things happen, you know that you are in the ballpark. If either way doesn't happen, you can adjust the outer carbs to compensate. Truthfully, once I set my outboards, I never messed with them again.

 

[fasjac]

Good info! Thank you. I have definitely leaned it down at idle and she’s running real hard. And idling good I’ll attach a video but, for some reason the volume is very low.
I just returned from a 20 mile cruise and when I shut down, got a slide runon ???
I changed champion plugs to lite last night. Gapped them at .035, the motor seems to like em though. I just have not had a runon (kinda dieseling) issue before. Trying to get scheduled for the dyno. Can’t upload a video.....

 

[fasjac]

Thanks rklein71, I will play with it this week and post the results. Thanks to all. BTW, as I’m pretty new here, can you upload a video?

 

[Kurt La Quinta]

I have 500 stroker six pack that idles a bit too rich. In the past I’ve read some post from very knowledgeable folks. Car idles at 950-1000 rpm’s just fine. She runs at WOT very strong, no stumbling or pinging. I’m using 93 non ethanol fuel. I’ll include the cam specs too. Yesterday I pulled the manifold vacuum from the big port on the back of the manifold. View attachment 66296View attachment 66297
I also installed a promax baseplate on the rear outboard carb on initial build 7 years ago. I can’t get in touch with promax but, I think the air screws are 1/8 -1/4 out. If anyone has any advice I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks,
fasjac

I have 500 stroker six pack that idles a bit too rich. In the past I’ve read some post from very knowledgeable folks. Car idles at 950-1000 rpm’s just fine. She runs at WOT very strong, no stumbling or pinging. I’m using 93 non ethanol fuel. I’ll include the cam specs too. Yesterday I pulled the manifold vacuum from the big port on the back of the manifold. View attachment 66296View attachment 66297
I also installed a promax baseplate on the rear outboard carb on initial build 7 years ago. I can’t get in touch with promax but, I think the air screws are 1/8 -1/4 out. If anyone has any advice I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks,
fasjac

Okay. Where do I start.
I've been running a 6 Pack Daily since about '91 on my '74 Power Wagon. https://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-trucks/my-'74-power-wagon-i-ordered-from-dodge-on-873/
I have put arguably (whatever that means ) the most miles on a 6 Pack setup than anybody out there... maybe. I even drove my truck up the Alaska Highway.
It's also a 500 stroker motor with 3 different builds since the original build in '91. Read the story above if you have a few days.
Since I think (again, whatever that means) I've probably encountered pretty much everything that one can encounter with a 6 Pack... let me give some advice.
Mine too ran rich at idle. Stock jetting barely works correctly on Stock engines. Especially with today's fuels.
I found this amazing article in a Mopar Muscle magazine a few years back that taught me how to really tune a Holley carburetor correctly.
This article was for a dual 4 barrel set up on a Hemi. That doesn't make any difference. The 6 Pack center carb is the Primary side of a Holley carb, The outboards are the secondary sides. Most tuning work is done on the primary side/ center carb.
Read it. Don't be scared. Dig into your carb. It really isn't that difficult. And you will be blown away with the drive-ability/ results!
Here's that article that I adapted to the forum pages I hang out the most... The Best Way to Tune A Holley Carburetor! - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram
Oh, another thing. The diaphragms on the outboard carbs don't last forever. If you engine feels flat almost like you've lost 100 HP... those rubber dudes aren't flexing like they used to do. They need to be replaced. Been there...
Read my story above.

 

[fasjac]

Hey Kurt! Man I can’t get those links to upload for whatever reason. Would like to read though. I have a couple center carbs. So, I rebuilt one and went up one size jets (64’s I believe) and 6.5 pv. haven’t changed the diaphragms or springs on the secondary’s. I’m at about 1 3/4 turns out on mixture screw on the center carb and about 1/2 on the secondary’s. Sitting just under 7psi on the mechanical fuel pressure. Runs very well, no stumble or delay at wot.
plugs are a light tan color now. And I love the Power Wagons for sure!
Thanks,
fasjac

 

[Kurt La Quinta]

Try copying this link. Then pasting it in your address bar... My '74 Power Wagon I Ordered from Dodge on 8/73 - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram
Here's the one on the Six Pack article...The Best Way to Tune A Holley Carburetor! - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

Sounds like your close with your tune.
I've found it takes more than turning screws to get them working their best. You know it's never THAT easy.
Also.. an air/ fuel gauge really helps finding where the problem really is.

EDIT... Those links look like they work good now. Hopefully they do for you too!

 

[Kurt La Quinta]

Try copying this link. Then pasteing it in your address bar... My '74 Power Wagon I Ordered from Dodge on 8/73 - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram
Here's the one on the Six Pack article...The Best Way to Tune A Holley Carburetor! - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

Sounds like your close with your tune.
I've found it takes more than turning screws to get them working their best. You know it's never THAT easy.
That run on your getting is discussed in that article I posted. It can be fixed.
Also.. an air/ fuel gauge really helps finding where the problem really is.

EDIT... Those links look like they work good now. Hopefully they do for you too!

 

[Kurt La Quinta]

Try copying this link. Then pasteing it in your address bar... My '74 Power Wagon I Ordered from Dodge on 8/73 - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram
Here's the one on the Six Pack article...The Best Way to Tune A Holley Carburetor! - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

Sounds like your close with your tune.
I've found it takes more than turning screws to get them working their best. You know it's never THAT easy.
That run on your getting is discussed in that article I posted. It can be fixed.
Also.. an air/ fuel gauge really helps finding where the problem really is.

EDIT... Those links look like they work good now. Hopefully they do for you too!

 

[fasjac]

Try copying this link. Then pasteing it in your address bar... My '74 Power Wagon I Ordered from Dodge on 8/73 - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram
Here's the one on the Six Pack article...The Best Way to Tune A Holley Carburetor! - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

Sounds like your close with your tune.
I've found it takes more than turning screws to get them working their best. You know it's never THAT easy.
That run on your getting is discussed in that article I posted. It can be fixed.
Also.. an air/ fuel gauge really helps finding where the problem really is.

EDIT... Those links look like they work good now. Hopefully they do for you too!

Thanks! I can read that attachment. Much appreciated Kurt

 

[Kurt La Quinta]

It is one of the best articles I've ever read on tuning a Holley carb.
It really gets down to the "brass jets" of fine tuning. And I'm not just talking main jets.
One of the biggest issues with almost any Holley is the off idle stumble. Everybody wants to up the accelerator pump squirter size to correct that. Nope!
One must richen up the "Tip In". Which involves the Idle Air Bleeds. It blows me away what a thousand in diameter of a jet can do to the tune and drivability.
It explains it really well in that article.

 

[fasjac]

Oh yea! Makes a big difference. Haven’t had an opportunity to read the whole article yet. 30 years ago we played with different size jets left and right sides.