Stroker question: 440 vs 400 vs 383

[Andrew_r/t]

I've got a 70 Challenger RT that currently has a non original 383 and a 727. I've got it back on the road and overall it runs decent. At some point I'd like to put a stroker in it, with a goal of about 450-500 hp. So not looking to push the boundaries at all, just want a decent driver, not too much maintenance and easy to work on.

Are there any inherent advantages with any of these starting points? The car has power brakes and steering, which I'd like to keep. Are plugs easier to get to with the b based options?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

No real advantage to any combo over another
The 383/ 400 are basically a 440 is a lighter block , same crank ,rods & rod ratio but 7 lbs less mass if you do a 430/ 383 or a 451 /400 , I prefer not to go much over 470CI in a B block otherwise the oil ring covers the piston pin as the piston is so short , more of a race than street build .
Using the 440 block I generally use the 512 combo .
If you were to use a raised port head the 440 intake fits on a B block but that is more of a race set up than street .
You have far better intake options for the RB block

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Most cost effective big-block is a 440 block, stroked to 4.15" (3.75" plus 0.400") and 0.030 overbore to 4.35" which equates to 500 CID.
Forged pistons
850 CFM Holley carburetor or Holley Terminator EFI
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold
Trick Flow® PowerPort® 270 Cylinder Heads
Hughes Engines Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
TTI headers

Many would say a stroker 340 or 360 is a lighter and more cost effective package for the 450-500 hp power range but the cost of changing transmissions is a factor.

 

[Xcudame]

You already have a 383, so I think a 431 (3.75 stroke crank and 440 rods) is your best and cheapest option. I agree with Chryco Psycho, 3.915 stroke max for the 383/400 B engines and 4.25 stroke for the 440. Anything bigger and you start running into oil ring issues and oil pick up issues. 440 source has some really nice stroker kits. Make sure you upgrade the 727 with some good A&A or Raybestos clutches and a good shift kit!

 

[Andrew_r/t]

Great input, thank you so much!

Now I will say I haven't looked too deep into core costs, but my first thought was to pick up a spare block and trans to build while my current set up was still in the car. That way the car wouldn't be down too long while I was swapping. So in that scenario, I'd be able to just get what I wanted to start from. I've been chasing down a problem lately in my 383 so plug access is fresh on my mind - does the taller 440 put the plugs in an easier to reach spot?

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Great input, thank you so much!

Now I will say I haven't looked too deep into core costs, but my first thought was to pick up a spare block and trans to build while my current set up was still in the car. That way the car wouldn't be down too long while I was swapping. So in that scenario, I'd be able to just get what I wanted to start from. I've been chasing down a problem lately in my 383 so plug access is fresh on my mind - does the taller 440 put the plugs in an easier to reach spot?

I have a 72 Challenger with a 440 & Trick Flow 240 heads. Plugs in #6 & #8 have to be removed from underneath. These TF heads have the angled plugs, but there is good clearance all around with the TTI 1 7/8 headers. I certainly would not say the 440 is easier since it is a bit wider in the engine bay than the low block 383.

 

[Andrew_r/t]

I have a 72 Challenger with a 440 & Trick Flow 240 heads. Plugs in #6 & #8 have to be removed from underneath. These TF heads have the angled plugs, but there is good clearance all around with the TTI 1 7/8 headers. I certainly would not say the 440 is easier since it is a bit wider in the engine bay than the low block 383.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Appreciate it!

 

[Xcudame]

I personally love changing the spark plugs from underneath! Here in the desert, it's pretty warm when I do tune ups, and that cool concrete floor feels better than leaning over fenders and sweating!

If you're building a second motor, I vote for the 440. Lots of parts available for nice 500 cubic inch motor.

 

[6PKRTSE]

Most everyone prefers the 400 for the big bore shorter deck height. I don't mind building any of them. 383/400 & 440's all can be built to nice street engines.

 

[chilsam]

400....

 

[Challenger RTA]

400....

I'm not an expert. But they are in the back of my mind to be an overlooked motor. Not saying yeah or nay.

 

[chilsam]

I'm not an expert But they are in the back of my mind to be an overlooked motor. Not saying yeah or nay.

400's have the biggest bore of any Chrysler engine remind me of hawaiian punch cans

 

[Chryco Psycho]

& potentially thinner cylinder walls because of the larger bore
The Mains are supported better for sure , the 71 231 blocks are the best

 

[chilsam]

& potentially thinner cylinder walls because of the larger bore
The Mains are supported better for sure , the 71 231 blocks are the best

The sleeves are larger to begin with on the 400 and the wall thickness would be the same as on the rest ofthe B.B ?...If it aint broke don't fix it ...as for the cold weather blocks as their called the 3rd 1/4 71's are best "440 SOURCE" ...I happen to have one standard bore with about 40,000 on it....bare block been sitting greased n oil'd since 85,got a -10 ,-10 steel 383 crank for it