7DCUDA383A
Well-Known Member
The shop where my cuda is can't get the trans and trans pan to stop leaking , they called another shop and said that's just the 727 , it's an old problem . Is there known issues with this , even with a new pan .
Transmission leak on 727
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Ricks72Chlgr440
Well-Known Member
That shop does not know what they're talking about. The 727 does not leak any more than any other transmission. The OE style steel pan flange often gets warped by over tightening the bolts. I chose to get a deeper pan so got one from A&A transmission since it also comes with a drain plug. A nice addition. I also bought a silicone pan gasket from RealGaskets.com (RG-A727) (Transmission Oil Pan Gasket - Chrysler 727). That gasket is wonderful to install (does not slip around like the cork style does when trying to put it on). A good pan & good gasket will take care of things.... assuming the leak is coming from the pan!
7DCUDA383A
Well-Known Member
This is the pan I have Mr Gasket . They said they are going to double gasket it.
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don selleck
Well-Known Member
I had a new fancy chrome pan fought with it for 2 months put the stock old beat up one back on, fixed no leaks since.
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Once the pan gets bent, straightening it is required to get it leak free, again. Even a new pan may not be perfectly straight and require a tweak here and there. There are torque specs on the pan bolts (some shops don't follow) and it's pretty light like 10 ft-pounds, or 150 inch-pounds. Over-tightening bends the pan at the bolt hole. On my first 727 overhaul, I pried the pan loose at the flange and wasn't aware I bent it, until it leaked after. I removed it, got it straight again, followed directions with a cork gasket, and it's not leaked for years, and years. I installed a drill-through drain plug on the edge of my pan. But your Mr Gasket one is pretty.
Katfish
Well-Known Member
Mopar trannys suck for leaks!
Both my 727 and 518 leak, if it's it not the pan it's something else.
Only fix is kitty litter and a drip pan in the garage.
Very frustrating
Both my 727 and 518 leak, if it's it not the pan it's something else.
Only fix is kitty litter and a drip pan in the garage.
Very frustrating
7DCUDA383A
Well-Known Member
The old or original one leaked too , they tried the old one again to see and they both leak , very frustrating .
7DCUDA383A
Well-Known Member
Well pretty sucks , both the original and new leak .
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
I'm not confident double-gasket will hold, presuming they glue them together with RTV. Ever less so, if they don't. An god help you, if they choose to seal the pan to the gasket with RTV. You'll never get it off without bending it, if they do.
Straightening the pan takes time and patience using a straight edge and a small rubber mallet.
Straightening the pan takes time and patience using a straight edge and a small rubber mallet.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Just changed a filter in the transmission on one of my cars. About an hours work. You just don't zip them in and out. I do use a small impact that does hit at about 20lbs. If one doesn't know the car break loose by hand. One has to take care not to snap off a bolt or cross thread. Clean bottom area carefully with razor blade. Don't gouge it. I Always inspect pan holes for depression and work out. I always put about 80% of the bolts through the pan and gasket to start. Start by hand run in and go around again.
If it is tighten to much the gasket does no good.
I use a little RTV at times to tack the rubber gasket in place if it's a problem.
A few years back did the same to my son's car and it still leaked. It was do for a change. It was the return line seeping.
If it is tighten to much the gasket does no good.
I use a little RTV at times to tack the rubber gasket in place if it's a problem.
A few years back did the same to my son's car and it still leaked. It was do for a change. It was the return line seeping.
7DCUDA383A
Well-Known Member
The thing is , it's not me doing the work , the information you and everyone gives me is priceless , I wish I had the space and tools , but I rely on a shop that I know nothing about , It's frustrating for sure .
Mopar Nut
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Has your shop check the selector shaft seal for leaks?
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I would have to say,we have all been there and done that. There is a lot of insight here to help you through the issues.
It's sometimes the questions you ask the mechanic that turn on a light.
don selleck
Well-Known Member
when I saw the pic you posted it looked very familiar, I dug this out this morning. you may wanna try a different pan, I changed the gasket 4 times on this pan. I'm thinking three different types of gaskets and Permatex on the last try which is tabu for transmissions (what I've always heard). the gasket I used that worked had crushproof sleeves where the bolts went thru, on a stock pan. Snugged them in and drove for a few days then snugged them one more time, fixed the problem for me.(tried on this pan also to no avail) Good luck these leaks are a PIA. and are expensive. At least I have something for target practice.
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Xcudame
Well-Known Member
I agree with Rick. I've never had a tranny pan leak. There are several key tips that are really common (uncommon?) sense. The housing where the pan bolts on must be free of previous gasket material and sealant. Use a good pan gasket. I like the rubberized steel core ones that can be used over and over again. Use your tiny 1/4" drive ratchet and 7/16" socket to reinstall the pan. I use a screwdriver torque wrench to torque them, but that's probably overkill on my part. By the way, I also like using the deeper 518/46rh pan as they are deeper and have a drain plug.
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billbob1936
Member
I've had leaks at the speedometer cable threads, the band adjust bolt and around the pan bolts. ARP thread sealer stays wet and has solved all of those issues. But the shift shaft seal leaking is a yearly reoccurring problem for me.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Billbob1936, for installing the shift shaft seal, buy one of those universal seal installers and choose one that fits snugly inside the seal and the second one covers the entire seal face. Lube it up with a little Vaseline and tap it on.
Sometimes what some believe is a pan leak is really coming from somewhere else and the fluid is just migrating down to the pan. The dip stick tube "O" ring is one, and the shift shaft seal is another. Occasionally the neutral safety switch is the culprit, or the extension housing gasket. I've also run across housings with a porosity problem. They need to properly clean the whole transmission, run it for a while, and then check for fresh fluid at all those places.
Katfish
Well-Known Member
It's also common to leak from the pivot pin, I replaced the gasket 3x before finding out it was dripping down.
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Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Good info here guys about other leak sources. I would question the shop's capability if it was leaking from any place but the pan. Rebuild means changing out all the seals, O-rings and gaskets. Hopefully they didn't take short cuts and it's leaking in one of the other places folks here have mentioned. 
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