My recently restored 74 'Cuda is having trouble starting up after it has been running. If I drive it to town and then shut it off for a bit, like to get gas or go in a store, I have a lot of trouble getting the car to start again. Thankfully by battery and starter are working well because I end up cranking the engine on and off for a few minutes. Some times I have to get under the hood run the throttle buy hand and have my girlfriend turn the key so I know I don't flood the engine. It seems to have this problem most when it is warm outside. I'm not too sure why this is happening and would really like to avoid getting stuck. Any suggestions on what this is or what I should do? The car has a 360 with a Holley 650cfm 4150 mechanical secondary on top.
Wont start arter running
- Thread starter JedIEG
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74 challenger
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did you check your timing?when you have a timing light on it does it jump around? distribuator bolt tight? spark plugs good,after so many times starting the car like that the plugs get fouled up.It seemed i had to change my plugs every year.
moparleo
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How does it run after it starts? Is the engine cranking rpm strong ? We are trying to narrow it down to a fuel or choke problem or an electrical problem.
Chryco Psycho
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pull the intake & block the heat crossover port , heat is soaking up boiling the fuel in the carb & possibly flooding it while it is sitting
Cuda360
Well-Known Member
I had the same issue with my 74 360. It flooded really easily.I got the carb rebuilt and tuned to perfection by someone who knows how to do it.(I tried several times to no avail)
They also said the spark plugs needed to be replaced. So check the condition of these and make sure the gap is right.
He also mentioned that these engines are prone to heat soak, which is most prominent when starting shortly after shutting off (as in gas stations).
Good luck.
They also said the spark plugs needed to be replaced. So check the condition of these and make sure the gap is right.
He also mentioned that these engines are prone to heat soak, which is most prominent when starting shortly after shutting off (as in gas stations).
Good luck.
I highly doubt it is the timing or plug wires. We have had just replaced the plugs for E3 plugs and has brand new wires, ignition (didn't change anything). The starter cranks strong and fast enough. The car starts up faster than my late model Jeep when its cold. The car has only put on about 200 miles since restoration. I tended not to have this problem as much in march when we first pulled the car out after winter.
Cuda360 that sounds most likely. The Holley has been around since the late 70's which I rebuilt and I'm pretty sure it could use a jet change different fuel cam lobe and gets a little lower gas mileage then I was expecting. Also the engine gets excessively hot after running it seems. Any tips on how to avoid heat soak?
moparleo
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Pull the plugs and get a reading. They will tell you if you are lean, rich or too far advanced. Also try to put the original Champion plugs back in gapped at 30-35. For drivability and fuel economy you want to run a vacuum advance distributor and vacuum secondary carb,. It will run smoother and more econmical. That is why they came from the factory that way.
Also make sure that your fuel is less than 6 months old and is dirt and water free. Run only major brands like Unocal, Standard, Mobil, Shell in premium grade. In a 16 gallon tank only a few dollars difference from Cheap gas and premium grade of fuel. Avoid ARCO and generics as they lack the additive packs that make them cleaner burning and reduce carbon build-up on the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops.
Also make sure that your fuel is less than 6 months old and is dirt and water free. Run only major brands like Unocal, Standard, Mobil, Shell in premium grade. In a 16 gallon tank only a few dollars difference from Cheap gas and premium grade of fuel. Avoid ARCO and generics as they lack the additive packs that make them cleaner burning and reduce carbon build-up on the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops.
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Chryco Psycho
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actually I have found that by eliminating the vacuum advance you can increase milage by having a shorter timing curve & more response off throttle without over advancing at higher RPM
70challengerdane
Well-Known Member
did this ever get solved? you may want to check your thermostat if your having excessive heat and right away. I drove for over a year in my 383 coronet with a stuck thermostat cause I live in Washington and its always around 45 degrees out here. usually only drove shorter distances too. then when I was headed for reno I overheated and broke down around southern Oregon when the outside temperature was much warmer then my hometown. anyway just thought id mention that cause it never overheated at home so I just thought it was ok that it seemed to run so hot.
I suffer from same issue, after engine is hot. I have a clear fuel filter between carb and pump, and I can watch the fuel evoporate and it becomes bone dry. Have to pump it all back to the carb every time.
Somoneone suggest the intake manifold needs blocking. How do you do that?
Somoneone suggest the intake manifold needs blocking. How do you do that?
There is an intake gasket made by MrGasket(maybe others) that doesn't have the heat crossover port punched out. This doesn't allow exhaust gas up under the intake. Some people have said that the gasket will just burn through after awhile. I just pulled the intake off of a 360 I have and the gasket still looks new. You should also be running a thick carb base gasket.
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