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Thanks gents! It's a nice solid #2 car for sure and I feel it's fairly priced to reflect it's condition. I have a lot more into it but that's beside the point. I have blown up my budget during this but wanted to make sure the car was treated right. I have one daughter in college with another off...

1970 Challenger RT/SE FC7 Restored *REDUCED 10/17/14* Offering for sale my 1970 Challenger RT/SE. Feel free to check out the restoration over the last few years under the "Member Restorations" section. Just completed this summer after 2 years of work. Paint is drop dead fantastic. Super smooth...

Ultimately I've decided to insulate the fuel line that runs from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb. Also, I ordered a kit (heat shield, insulating gasket) from coolcarbs for the carb/intake where I seem to have the most trouble with the fuel boiling. I really don't want to mount an electric...

Changed out the ballast that didn't cure it. So I stepped back and started thinking about things some more. I've been reading up on vapor lock and fuel boiling in the carb (which it is doing). Running an Edelbrock performer that was on the car when I bought (new in '07). I'm going to try a...

O Ok......GREAT info gents. I'll have to get some help to run some of these ideas as I don't have any testing equioment and a few require helping hands. I didn't think the ceramic ballast would come in to play? I read somewhere it's not even needed for an electronic ignition conversion. Any...

After sitting for over well over 1.5 hours the coil was still very warm to the touch. For the heck of it shot down the street to NAPA and pick one up. Car fired up, ran smooth for the usual 10-15 minutes then stalled out. Cranks and cranks but won't fire until cooled down. Then I gotta pump the...

Tinkered some more with it recently. Swapped out the ignition module. Car starts and runs fine until temp gets up to operating range. Runs fine for 10-15 minutes then it stalled in the driveway. Went to crank it......just cranks and cranks and cranks so that wasn't it.....same problem as last...

Well I did briefly argh! Took it out Friday night for a little drive. Went about 15 miles/30 minutes and everything ran great. Took it out the next night and 10 minutes in to the trip it just died. Was traveling about 40 mph and the throttle had no response then I coasted in to a lot. The car...

Well let me say this...SSBC disc brake conversion kits for this car is absolute junk!! Their tech support.....crud. We swapped out the power booster (nothing to do with SSBC). The master cylinder they supplied absolutely is garbage. Went back to a stock set-up for power drum brakes (1" bore)...

That's what I ultimately decided to do. I found a rebuilt original style Bendix part #18268 (same as mine) located in NH (one state over for a change). We'll try that and see what happens.........

Still can't get this brake issue resolved. Have talked with SSBC tech but still issues remaining and nothing seems to correct the problem of a hard brake pedal and poor braking. We're not getting enough fluid pressure to close the caliper pistons to the rotors. Vacuum is a little weak but even...

The brakes operate and the car will stop but I sure wouldn't want to drive it in traffic........does not stop well or fast. Pedal is hard and will hold the car on a incline but not well. The factory valve is there then the flow goes to the proportioning valve. I did find an electrical connection...

Good, clean consistent flow to all 4 wheels. At first I wasn't getting any to the rear drums but that was due to me adjusting the proportioning valve more towards the front. After playing around we got good clean flow to all 4 wheels. Pedal still really hard, not much travel, does not stop the...

Sure lol! Here's a pic. We disconnected the vacuum line running from the booster (runs to back of intake manifold). Seemed like there was plenty of vacuum. Bleed the brakes many times over and there is definitely no air in the system. Brake pedal is really hard with not much travel....no power...

Worse....looks like it leaking at the seam. I didn't change the tank nor have it checked......guess that bit me. Also poewer brakes are terrible. Bleed them again got all the air out. Booster has vacuum.....just acts like I'm getting no power to the brakes. Another thing I probably should have...

Finally got it running and driving but still have quite a few kinks to work out of it.......topped off thr tank and got home...had gasoline running out from somewhere on the top of the tank.....possibly a seem?? Of course a few other headaches....mostly electrical issues to straighten out. Never...

Well......I feel like an idiot. Oh well....not the first time! I sent it to the shop that performed the body work. Was too frustrated with it. Turns out 2 plug wires were crossed up. Still don't know how...checked it 3-4 times and had another friend check them. That and apparantely I didn't...

I agree. Is that what basically "holds" the remote part the mirror to the door panel and keeps it from falling back into the door? I have the chrome bezel but nothing was ever attached to the other side causing the remote part to loosely fall back into the door?

Greetings. I've had an on-going thread here for a year and a half documenting the restoration on my 70 RT/SE.....here's the link http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?6037-70-Challenger-RT-SE-restoration-started Hoping to have it finished in 3-4 weeks. I have been debating on...

Honestly I don't recall...didn't touch during the process. I am struggling with grasping being on the exhaust side. I never removed the distributor from the engine except for just a moment when cleaning/painting around the block. I was careful to mark the base of the distributor and the block...