70 Challenger RT/SE restoration started

[moparleo]

Good move at this point. Try to be there when they diagnose your problem. Good knowledge for the future. They should be able to narrow down the problem quickly if they are any good.

 

[quapman]

I wonder if your timing is off 180 degrees. It's easy to do with the tab in slot type distributor.

 

[tomps]

We pulled the #1 spark plug...stuck a straw in there and hand turned the engine over to make sure were TDC. Pulled the cap....rotor was pointing at #1. Triple checked firing order and the plug wires (new wires and plugs).

When the engine was pulled for painting of the car it was basically inspected and not completely dis-mantled. I never removed the distributor except for a brief period when I was painting. Marked it position and it went right back in.

Beyond my means at this point. I'm well beyond my means and just gotta know when to say when. Not happy that I blew both mufflers to pieces but oh well......have to order a couple more.

Thanks for the input folks.

 

[quapman]

It could be at TDC, but on the EXHAUST stroke, making it 180 degrees off (1 full crank turn). I know, because I've done it myself. You can remove the valve cover and see which valve is open.

 

[challenger6pak]

I agree on the 180 degress off. You got spark on the exhaust stroke and ignited the fumes in your exhaust system instead of in the cylinder.

 

[tomps]

Ahhh......ok that's makes sense. Ignite.....did I ever holy moly!

Still not sure I wanna tackle this again. I think that's twice now when I've tried to get it running when were on the exhaust stroke?

 

[challenger6pak]

Do you have stamped steel rockers or adjustable rockers?

 

[Adam]

Disconnect the coil, remove the #1 plug. Crank the engine over while holding your finger or thumb over the plug hole. When it comes up on compression you will feel the pressure come out of the hole. Look at the balancer, the timing mark should be very close to TDC. Use a socket and breaker bar to turn the engine to about 10 degrees BTC. Pull the dist cap and see where the rotor is pointing. Check the plug wires are correctly routed, big block distributors turn counterclockwise, if I recall correctly.
Now, put the dist cap back on, hook up the coil, and turn the ignition on to the run position but dont crank. Replace the plug & hook up a timing light. Slowly turn the dist until you get a spark signal. The engine should now start. Good luck.

 

[tomps]

Do you have stamped steel rockers or adjustable rockers?

Honestly I don't recall...didn't touch during the process.

I am struggling with grasping being on the exhaust side. I never removed the distributor from the engine except for just a moment when cleaning/painting around the block. I was careful to mark the base of the distributor and the block as well as the cap because I wanted it as close to where it was when it was running. If I crank the engine over another full turn...then my rotor theorically should be pointing 180 degrees from where it currently is....correct? If that's the case, I'm no longer on #1 cylinder. I routed the wiring identical as when I removed the plugs.

Yes...it is couterclockwise rotation.

Thanks guys....really appreciate everyone's input....more then you know.

 

[Adam]

Actually it dosent matter where the rotor is pointing... as long as it hits the terminal with the #1 plug wire at TDC on the compression stroke. Make sure it is on the compression stroke and wire it from there.

 

[tomps]

Well......I feel like an idiot. Oh well....not the first time!

I sent it to the shop that performed the body work. Was too frustrated with it. Turns out 2 plug wires were crossed up. Still don't know how...checked it 3-4 times and had another friend check them. That and apparantely I didn't have the carb mounted down completely. Guess that explains the vacuum issue? Purrs like a kitten now. Expensive lesson but oh well.......stuff happens right.

Now on to the power windows. I got the driver side working up and down as should, the pass. only goes down not up (acting like it's caught on something), the rear quarter sporadically and the other nothing......next :icon_study:
Had the darndest time locating a new 4 way master switvh for the drivers door. Mine was a mess...pins all bent, wires soldered on, corner broken....rough shape. But a nice clean used one........

 

[moparlee]

Glad you got it sorted out. That's the way it goes sometimes and at least it wasn't something more serious. Like you said, now on to the next thing, there is always something more to work on.

 

[tomps]

Finally got it running and driving but still have quite a few kinks to work out of it.......topped off thr tank and got home...had gasoline running out from somewhere on the top of the tank.....possibly a seem?? Of course a few other headaches....mostly electrical issues to straighten out. Never again lol

 

[340challconvert]

Stunning results on your work

Super nice job a really nice 70 RT SE
Time to enjoy!

 

[quapman]

Bad filler neck grommet? Vent?

 

[tomps]

Bad filler neck grommet? Vent?

Worse....looks like it leaking at the seam. I didn't change the tank nor have it checked......guess that bit me. Also poewer brakes are terrible. Bleed them again got all the air out. Booster has vacuum.....just acts like I'm getting no power to the brakes. Another thing I probably should have changed when I did the disk brake conversion.

IT doesn't end..........

 

[quapman]

No, it never ends with these old girls.

Where are you getting vacuum for the booster? Got any pics of your engine bay we can dissect? LOL

 

[tomps]

No, it never ends with these old girls.

Where are you getting vacuum for the booster? Got any pics of your engine bay we can dissect? LOL

Sure lol!

Here's a pic. We disconnected the vacuum line running from the booster (runs to back of intake manifold). Seemed like there was plenty of vacuum. Bleed the brakes many times over and there is definitely no air in the system. Brake pedal is really hard with not much travel....no power assist at all. Brakes engage but very lightly. Won't hold the car on an incline. I purchased a front disc brake 4 piston conversion kit designed to work with original power booster. A new master cylinder was included. Car had power drum brakes and worked well last I drove the car a few years ago.....

Original booster looks like?

 

[challenger6pak]

Did you have plenty of flow at the brakes when you bled them? You may have a plugged or partially plugged brake hose.

 

[tomps]

Did you have plenty of flow at the brakes when you bled them? You may have a plugged or partially plugged brake hose.

Good, clean consistent flow to all 4 wheels. At first I wasn't getting any to the rear drums but that was due to me adjusting the proportioning valve more towards the front. After playing around we got good clean flow to all 4 wheels. Pedal still really hard, not much travel, does not stop the car well enough even at idle rolling speed. The front disc conversion kit from SSBC came with master cylinder designed to work with my booster. Not sure if I should be looking at the booster itself at this point?