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I experimented with Vitour Galaxy R1 Radial GT tires. They’re V rated and I use 235/60-15 front and rear. On for three years now and no problems. So far so good. Lettering stays white.

I have an original Sublime ‘70 RT with the rear black panel. Built 1/23/1970 from the LA plant.

I used info from Daniel Stern lighting and use Kioto reflector housings with H4 hi/lo and H1 high beam Tungsram +120 bulbs along with Crackedback’s headlight rely wiring harness. His wiring harness is assembled with top quality parts and his workmanship is excellent. Lighting is excellent and I...

I might suggest you contact Cass at doctordiff.com for your braking needs. He’s a great source for information and parts.

Might check the chip inside on the tach’s board. Found out the electronic box was not compatible with factory tach’s board. Had my tach rebuilt with the new chip and it works fine. Auto Instruments in Virginia did the rebuild and told me the tach will now work with any electronic system.

Probably not the best in audio quality, but I use a iHome small Bluetooth speaker that I rest between the console and the passenger seat and stream Sirius XM through my iPhone. This is similar to mine because I don’t think they make my model anymore.

Same here too. LA built 1/23/70. No build sheet.

If you can soak it with rust penetrant they make extractor sockets that grab onto bolt heads. I’ve had success using those in the past. Harbor Freight might have them.

I did the same thing. Bought a non AC double groove crank pulley and a non AC water pump pulley from 440 Source for my 383 RT. It worked perfectly for me as I was also able to achieve an acceptable alternator pulley ratio with the 440 Source non AC double groove pulley. You can always put the AC...

I’m not sure. I thought there were stops in place to limit maximum turn to lock even though the steering box could still turn more. Just not sure.

Not sure, but isn’t there built-in stops somewhere at full lock to prevent excess turn into the frame? I thought there was, but not really sure. Never looked, but remember reading something about that many years ago.

Once the ash tray is removed there are some screws on the top and bottom of the opening. You can sit in the passenger seat. Remove the screws and pull the frame out and the flasher is on the right side. Be careful how far out you remove it because the harness is connected to the flasher. When...

Non-polarity for turn signal flasher grounded on ash tray frame. Used the factory hazard flasher. Still worked albeit a slightly slower flash rate. I left it alone.

440source.com has Saginaw pulleys. https://store.440source.com/Power-Steering-Pulleys/products/83/

I have Crackedback’s relay harness and H4/H1 Tungsram +120 bulbs with Koito headlight housings. The lighting is very impressive.

I had a hot rear drum after a rebuild and it was the Chinese made drum was out of round. Turned them both which solved the problem.

I use one. My came with an adapter from 4 bolts to 2. I got mine from Dr Diff and it has a recessed grove to accept the rubber retainer on the brake pushrod. I used my factory drum brake pushrod with a new rubber retainer. There is a recessed area on the brake pushrod that accepts the rubber...

There’s a lock nut and screw on top of the box. Check the FSM for the adjustment procedure. I also needed to tighten the steering, but I found my problem to be the aftermarket steering coupler not fitting tight on the worm gear. I cleaned up my OEM coupler, installed new shoes and my problem...

The National 5121 seal is $2.39 and Timken is $2.44 at RockAuto.

I used this combination valve. The MC was from Dr. Diff. It was the aluminum 1.031 MC. It had the Mopar 1/2-20 and 9/16-20 ports. The pic was from Dr Diff’s website. He has both the combination valves and the MC. He is a great guy to deal with. He also has the 15/16” MC in the aluminum style...