1970 Barracuda Dash / Gauge Thoughts

[Cazbah362]

OK, I am getting ready to upgrade my dash and gauges for my project car, a 1970 Barracuda non-AC, single speaker non rally. Here are my thoughts:

Dash pad: Dash Pad Pro's, they published there prices of $695 plus core and shipping. Just dashes seems to have a floating price, so that concerns me. I did a 68 GTO a few years back and it was a bit more than pricey. Also this is not a restoration project.

Another thought was to buy a plastic framed dash pad from Ebay and sell my core to just dashes. Could cut out a lot of price? Thoughts on this? Has anyone ever used one of the plastic framed pads? What quality? any issues?

VIN plate: My concern is putting the VIN plate on the new system. I believe I will buy the rivet from ECS: ECS Automotive Concepts - FACTORY EXACT VIN PLATE TRANSFER Does anyone have any tips here? Just a little nervous about pulling a VIN plate

Gauges and Gauge Panel: I think I am going to use Autometer's Gauge panel and have it wrapped in the the same 3M carbon fiber wrap I did my AAR graphics. Will provide a nice match and contrast. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2139

Gauges: SpeedHut - Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod

1. Speedometer (GPS?)
2. Tach with Rev/limiter
3. Oil pressure
4. Water Temp
5. Voltage
6. Wideband (1 and 2 banks or 1 bank to gauge an other to the computer?,)

Thanks for any inputs, also a great checklist to keep me on track.

 

[challenger6pak]

Don't pull your VIN tag. Use a small tool to grind the back side of the rivet off. Don't drill the rivet out from the front. It will spin before you get it out and will leave a groove in your VIN tag.

 

[moparleo]

Just Dashes is still the gold standard. More $$ but you don't buy twice because the cheaper plastic framed dash pad didn't fit correctly. Go with a steel framed pad. If you use your dash core, the chances are that it will fit better then an unknown core.Your call. Since it is not a restoration in your words, you can just go with price and take your chances. Follow challenger6pak's advice on the vin rivets. You will only have one shot to get it done right.

 

[Cazbah362]

Challenger6apk - Thanks for that information on grinding from the rear not to leave marks. Quick question though, when you mean "don't pull your VIN tag" - explain. If I grind them off, it will come off?

Also - Moparleo - Is Dash Pro not as equitable as Just Dashes, their product is a factory steel frame? Is there issues with them?

- and I agree with the plastic frames, just a thought.

 

[challenger6pak]

Some people think the tag snaps in and out. You have to use a small tool on the rivet. You don't want to cut into the dash frame. When you look at the rivet from the front you can see a center post in it. When you grind from the backside you basically are cutting the end off of the post so the rivet will release. Just grind a little and pull a little on the tag. Cut until it releases. When I take a customers tag off at the shop, it goes into a sandwich size Tupperware container and then gets locked away until needed. I use the container because it is large enough to be hard to lose. You would be surprised how easily that little thin tag can slip into or behind something and become impossible to find.

 

[Cazbah362]

6pak - THANK YOU - Great advice all around. I like the tupperware idea, I agree and concur, I am a little bit paranoid on tag coming up missing due to its size

 

[challenger6pak]

Your welcome. Post some pics of your project. Sounds like it will be nice.

 

[AUSTA]

I had Dash Pad pros do a steel TA dash quoted around 4 weeks wasn't ready for 10 when i received you could see right through the burnt orange to the black underneath had to respray .
Also had some bad dimples that i had to drill a small hole behind & pump out with silicone bit like an implant.
The stitch line was all wavy & vinyl was pulled too tight see pic of dash end.
Also had to dig out a heap of foam to fit the rallye light bezel.
I would use Just dashes next time

OK, I am getting ready to upgrade my dash and gauges for my project car, a 1970 Barracuda non-AC, single speaker non rally. Here are my thoughts:

Dash pad: Dash Pad Pro's, they published there prices of $695 plus core and shipping. Just dashes seems to have a floating price, so that concerns me. I did a 68 GTO a few years back and it was a bit more than pricey. Also this is not a restoration project.

Another thought was to buy a plastic framed dash pad from Ebay and sell my core to just dashes. Could cut out a lot of price? Thoughts on this? Has anyone ever used one of the plastic framed pads? What quality? any issues?

VIN plate: My concern is putting the VIN plate on the new system. I believe I will buy the rivet from ECS: ECS Automotive Concepts - FACTORY EXACT VIN PLATE TRANSFER Does anyone have any tips here? Just a little nervous about pulling a VIN plate

Gauges and Gauge Panel: I think I am going to use Autometer's Gauge panel and have it wrapped in the the same 3M carbon fiber wrap I did my AAR graphics. Will provide a nice match and contrast. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2139

Gauges: SpeedHut - Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod

1. Speedometer (GPS?)
2. Tach with Rev/limiter
3. Oil pressure
4. Water Temp
5. Voltage
6. Wideband (1 and 2 banks or 1 bank to gauge an other to the computer?,)

Thanks for any inputs, also a great checklist to keep me on track.

 

[Cazbah362]

6pak - Thanks, I do have a build thread: 1970 Cuda - New Go Mango

AUSTA - Thank you, kind of what I was looking for.

Well, sounds like I will be attending MATS in Las Vegas this year. I might hold out to ship this until the to see who attends. I will be calling both DPP and JD tomorrow for quotes. Will keep you posted.