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1970 Cuda decklid differences??

hemi135

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I have seen some with cutouts underneath and some without. What was the cutoff point/date/timeframe when they starting to make them all with cutouts. My Cuda was built 12/69 and I'm trying to determine if I have the correct decklid for it's build date and is mine considered an early build or what..?? It does currently have all the cutouts for a wing or rack.

Update: photo as of 02/27/23
The photo is the deck I have and I believe it to be correct for a 12/69 SPD. The AAR cutouts per another response elsewhere didn't arrive until approx. Feb 1970 on all decks for the Barracuda line but correct me if I'm wrong.

IMG_3389.jpg
 
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cuda joe

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my 71 cuda came factory with the cutouts for the go wing i don't know when they stopped doing that. .when i replaced my trunk lid i cut them out just like the originals
 

Chryco Psycho

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I don't believe there was a date , there were 4 options - flat deck lid , luggage rack , Go Wing , & the AAR kick tail in March .
I have seen 3 different frames under the skin , nothing , go Wing & luggage rack , & the AAR type the first 2 would have always been available in 70
In 71 model year the AAR would no longer be used & 72 up nothing was available .
 

cuda joe

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my lid was a flat no options with the cut outs
 

MoparCarGuy

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Three main Barracuda/Cuda styles. Your Version 2 decklid is correct for a 12/69 SPD.
The Version 2 decklid introduction date should coincide with the GoWing spoiler introduction which is believed to be Mid-November 1969. Version 2 may have ended in February 1970 just prior to the Version 3 AAR Ducktail spoiler introduction in March 1970.

1970 BH, BP, & BS Decklid Styles.jpg
 
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hemi135

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Three main Barracuda/Cuda styles. Yours is correct for 12/69 SPD.
I am confirming the production dates with an E-Body expert on another forum and will update the graphic below if there is a confirmed change.
Being verified: The Version 2 decklid introduction date which should coincide with the GoWing spoiler introduction. It was suggested that Version 2 may have began in November 1969 and ended in February 1970 just prior to the Version 3 decklid introduction with AAR Ducktail spoiler introduction in March 1970.

View attachment 102837
Thank you, That is exactly what I thought. I in fact do have my factory deck which I knew but was told by a friend it wasn't. Blah Blah right....On a side note, my deck was drilled for a luggage rack but was removed in the late 80's and refinished without. That is going back on very soon and I have a complete setup ready to go.
 

MoparCowboy

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Ok, the trunk lid is one the questions I have yet to figure out on my car, and one of the reasons for joining this forum. My car came from the factory with a luggage rack, documented by the build sheet, and it was built Oct. 69 at the LA plant. It did not have a luggage rack when I bought it. At that time, I didn't care, I never planned on one. Well, fast forward to now, and I will go back with one. I actually got a decent, original luggage rack as of yesterday. I kind of like the looks of them now. Makes it "different."

After finding this thread and then going to look at mine, well, I don't know what I have?

IMG_7333.JPG
 

hemi135

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Ok, the trunk lid is one the questions I have yet to figure out on my car, and one of the reasons for joining this forum. My car came from the factory with a luggage rack, documented by the build sheet, and it was built Oct. 69 at the LA plant. It did not have a luggage rack when I bought it. At that time, I didn't care, I never planned on one. Well, fast forward to now, and I will go back with one. I actually got a decent, original luggage rack as of yesterday. I kind of like the looks of them now. Makes it "different."

After finding this thread and then going to look at mine, well, I don't know what I have?

View attachment 103440
The decklid in your photo is drilled for a luggage rack only. Mine in the first photo is drilled for a rack and the spoiler. Mine was built in Dec 69. I know it probably doesn't offer any more insight but the factory did a lot of things that didn't make sense at times. Since yours was built in Oct 69, that's fair to say you have the correct decklid there consistent with how Mopar stamped them prior to Nov 69 with the introduction of the go-wing spoiler
 

MoparCarGuy

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Here are pictures of two different Cuda's with a luggage rack and the factory diagram with obvious mounting location errors for the center two holddown posts.

Nice Rack.jpg
70 Cuda Luggage Rack.jpg


Luggage Rack Engineering Diagram.jpg
 
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MoparCowboy

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ok, thanks. And, yeah, interesting mounting diagram, for sure. Many seem to hate the looks, but, mine came with one, so it's going to have one again.
 

MoparCarGuy

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And these installation instructions may help as well. Just use your rack as the template to drill.
NOTE: These instructions have the same drawing errors for the "center" set of support posts as the engineering diagram.

Luggage Rack Diagram on Trunk Lid.jpg
 

MoparCarGuy

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I corrected the engineering diagram to put the "center" support posts at the correct locations.
Spacing for Support Posts.jpg


Luggage Rack Engineering Diagram - Corrected Support Post Locations.jpg
 

hemi135

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Here are pictures of two different Cuda's with a luggage rack and the factory diagram with obvious mounting location errors for the center two holddown posts.

View attachment 103515 View attachment 103517

View attachment 103535
That's my Cuda on the left there with the rack just sitting on the decklid for a mockup and photo-op. I'm just leery on how to install these riv-nuts in the hardware kit that came with it. I wish someone would post an instructional video of a Cuda/Challenger/Charger luggage rack from scratch. Man, that would help greatly and I would feel confident on doing it correctly because once you drill there's no going back.
 

MoparCarGuy

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That's my Cuda on the left there with the rack just sitting on the decklid for a mockup and photo-op. I'm just leery on how to install these riv-nuts in the hardware kit that came with it. I wish someone would post an instructional video of a Cuda/Challenger/Charger luggage rack from scratch. Man, that would help greatly and I would feel confident on doing it correctly because once you drill there's no going back.
I would comsider lining up the rearmost supports that go directly over the factory decklid punched holes to verify they line up. To confirm, measure the distance between those posts as well. Then measure the center-to-center of the holes under the decklid. They should match. If so, you can safely drill those holes from the topside.
Before drilling you want to transfer your measurements to the area after putting down several rows of wide masking tape. Start drilling with a series of smaller bits working up to the correct size for the RivNut. Harbor Freight sells a kit with the RivNut tool and several sizes of RivNuts. I am not sure if the kit has your required size. The tool is much like a normal rivet gun tool.

Lay down more masking tape in the areas for the other posts. Test the rack for alignment at the two holes you just drilled. The tape will protect your paint at each post location while lining it up. Secure the two nuts on the post studs. Double-check everything is square and spaced evenly.
Now you can use the post machine screw holes in the rack to mark all of the remaining locations to drill.
A small scribe may work or a very small centerpunch. I would be super cautious about using a center punch as you only need a small mark to know where to drill.
You would be wise to use a long drill bit and drill through the rack holes for each post and secure them as you move from one to the next. This will ensure everything stays aligned.
I have not attached a luggage rack before but it looks to be a similar process I used to add and align a set of twin hood scoops on a 71 Dodge Demon to turn it into a Demon 340.
Anyone else have ideas or tips on how to install the luggage rack properly?
 
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hemi135

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I would comsider lining up the rearmost supports that go directly over the factory decklid punched holes to verify they line up. To confirm, measure the distance between those posts as well. Then measure the center-to-center of the holes under the decklid. They should match. If so, you can safely drill those holes from the topside.
Before drilling you want to transfer your measurements to the area after putting down several rows of wide masking tape. Start drilling with a series of smaller bits working up to the correct size for the RivNut. Harbor Freight sells a kit with the RivNut tool and several sizes of RivNuts. I am not sure if the kit has your required size. The tool is much like a normal rivet gun tool.

Lay down more masking tape in the areas for the other posts. Test the rack for alignment at the two holes you just drilled. The tape will protect your paint at each post location while lining it up. Secure the two nuts on the post studs. Double-check everything is square and spaced evenly.
Now you can use the post machine screw holes in the rack to mark all of the remaining locations to drill.
A small scribe may work or a very small centerpunch. I would be super cautious about using a center punch as you only need a small mark to know where to drill.
You would be wise to use a long drill bit and drill through the rack holes for each post and secure them as you move from one to the next. This will ensure everything stays aligned.
I have not attached a luggage rack before but it looks to be a similar process I used to add and align a set of twin hood scoops on a 71 Dodge Demon to turn it into a Demon 340.
Anyone else have ideas or tips on how to install the luggage rack properly?
Awesome!!! I'm going to look into that Rivnut tool. The repop rack I bought has the entire hardware kit needed for install including the gaskets, screws and rivnuts but looking at them with zero it's tricky to see how it's done, correctly and on point. I will take your suggestion as the starting point and go from there. It would be awesome if someone had a short video of this install process though but that may be a needle in a hay stack because these racks can be rare and most don't want to add it even if it's original. My body guy looked at me funny when I mentioned it but he's not a Mopar nut. Hahaha
 

BluRaySRT

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I would comsider lining up the rearmost supports that go directly over the factory decklid punched holes to verify they line up. To confirm, measure the distance between those posts as well. Then measure the center-to-center of the holes under the decklid. They should match. If so, you can safely drill those holes from the topside.
Before drilling you want to transfer your measurements to the area after putting down several rows of wide masking tape. Start drilling with a series of smaller bits working up to the correct size for the RivNut. Harbor Freight sells a kit with the RivNut tool and several sizes of RivNuts. I am not sure if the kit has your required size. The tool is much like a normal rivet gun tool.

Lay down more masking tape in the areas for the other posts. Test the rack for alignment at the two holes you just drilled. The tape will protect your paint at each post location while lining it up. Secure the two nuts on the post studs. Double-check everything is square and spaced evenly.
Now you can use the post machine screw holes in the rack to mark all of the remaining locations to drill.
A small scribe may work or a very small centerpunch. I would be super cautious about using a center punch as you only need a small mark to know where to drill.
You would be wise to use a long drill bit and drill through the rack holes for each post and secure them as you move from one to the next. This will ensure everything stays aligned.
I have not attached a luggage rack before but it looks to be a similar process I used to add and align a set of twin hood scoops on a 71 Dodge Demon to turn it into a Demon 340.
Anyone else have ideas or tips on how to install the luggage rack properly?
Can you show where the factory pre-drilled holes are on the back of a decklid. I have to mount one on a car that did not come with one. Thanks!
 
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