I am really having a hard time trying to find a valve cover grommet that fits my valve covers for my PCV valve. Measurement in the valve cover is 1.22" and my PCV goes in a hole that is around 1/2". Any suggestions would be great.
'73 Challenger Rallye Restoration
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moparleo
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Bill, can you find a grommet that fits the valve covers ? If so, just buy a pcv that fits the grommet.
Thanks Leo. Yes I can. There is a 1.22" od x 1" ID or 1.22" od x 3/4" ID that would fit the valve cover. I thought about that but was not sure if I was allowed to use a different PCV valve. Excuse my ignorance but is the physical workings of all or most PCV valves created equal? That would be a pretty big hurdle off my mind if I can do that. I've tried everywhere to try to find a 1.22" od x 1/2" id grommet.
moparleo
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Well technically different pcv valves are supposed to open and close at specific vacuum numbers. I'll try to find the specs. But it will be better than none.
74chlngrTT5.9
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Food for thought. Is your pcv valve original? If so the internal spring is probably weak compared to new anyway.
If intended use is not daily over abuse then as Leo said will not be a problem. I have replaced several through the years on various projects using what fit v/s what came stock.
If intended use is not daily over abuse then as Leo said will not be a problem. I have replaced several through the years on various projects using what fit v/s what came stock.
moparleo
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Bill, Who do you want to share it with ?
Looks like a good deal posted on local craigslist in NH. 71 Challenger, 4 speed, Rallye dash for $2,500.
I took my spark plugs out, disconnected the coil wire going to the distributor and cranked on the starter to purge gas up to the fuel filter and into a jar to get to check for leaks and get ready for my motor guy to come over to start the motor for the first time. While cranking, the #8 wires going to and from the ameter got real hot. Is there anyone good with wiring that can see anything wrong with the way I wired my engine compartment area? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
moparleo
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Bill,
Instead of just disconnecting the coil wire, (which still runs current through the ignition system) get your self a cheap handheld remote starter switch which has alligator clips to just power up the starter only. The starter relay, which is on the fender apron right next to the battery , is labeled. Just attach the battery terminal to the starter terminal and push the button. This allows for you to do it yourself as well as being able to see what is happening under the hood while the engine cranks. No current will go through anything else. If you have wires that are getting hot when they are energized, it is usually a poor connection somewhere . Remember, safety first. Always have a fully charged fire extinguisher handy that is rated for electrical and oil.
Instead of just disconnecting the coil wire, (which still runs current through the ignition system) get your self a cheap handheld remote starter switch which has alligator clips to just power up the starter only. The starter relay, which is on the fender apron right next to the battery , is labeled. Just attach the battery terminal to the starter terminal and push the button. This allows for you to do it yourself as well as being able to see what is happening under the hood while the engine cranks. No current will go through anything else. If you have wires that are getting hot when they are energized, it is usually a poor connection somewhere . Remember, safety first. Always have a fully charged fire extinguisher handy that is rated for electrical and oil.
Thanks for the great advise (again) Leo. Great idea. I will bypass the ameter and that will tell me if I have an issue with the wires or connectors heading through the firewall and back from the ameter or the ameter itself. I'm still wondering if the wiring diagram I made up looks okay. Fire extinguisher is "cocked and loaded". Hope I won't need it.
Great idea Leo. Thanks for the advise (again). I can do that with a little switch heading to the start relay coil. I think I will bypass the ammeter with another wire to see if I have an issue with the wires or connectors heading through the fire wall and back. There may be an issue with the ammeter too??. It does show total discharge while cranking then back to center when not cranking so I "assume" it works okay. Fire extinguisher is "cocked and loaded". Hope it's not needed. I would still like to see if anyone has any input on the way I wired the engine compartment up. The ignition circuit backfeeds the start circuit causing the starter relay to energize when only the ignition ckt. switch is on. I was able to fix it so it works properly.
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Exciting day.
Things were going well until the ballast resistor fried. We are only getting about 2 volts at the coil with a .8 ohm resistor. The circuit was broke through the ballast resistor and the motor shut off after about 10 minutes of run time. There was a burnt mark behind the ballast resistor. I used the 1.5 ohm side of one of the dual resistors I had and we restarted the motor till it started to run out of gas. The motor was not running as well after we put the 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in. I was only reading about 1.9 volts at the coil with 12 volts going into the resistor. I researched that should be reading 4 to 8 volts at the coil?
Coil is a Accel 140001 Super Coil. Anyway, I hope to get it figured out. Here is a link to the short video I took. Temp was steady at 180, oil pressure at 40 and charging volts at 14. Rallye tachometer does not seem to work. Oh, and the power steering does work. The air just had to work its way out of the system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjFBv4I4Gb8
Things were going well until the ballast resistor fried. We are only getting about 2 volts at the coil with a .8 ohm resistor. The circuit was broke through the ballast resistor and the motor shut off after about 10 minutes of run time. There was a burnt mark behind the ballast resistor. I used the 1.5 ohm side of one of the dual resistors I had and we restarted the motor till it started to run out of gas. The motor was not running as well after we put the 1.5 ohm ballast resistor in. I was only reading about 1.9 volts at the coil with 12 volts going into the resistor. I researched that should be reading 4 to 8 volts at the coil?
Coil is a Accel 140001 Super Coil. Anyway, I hope to get it figured out. Here is a link to the short video I took. Temp was steady at 180, oil pressure at 40 and charging volts at 14. Rallye tachometer does not seem to work. Oh, and the power steering does work. The air just had to work its way out of the system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjFBv4I4Gb8
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Do you have the Install PDF for the coil see attachedhttp://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/110/110-140001.pdf
I'm stuck.... I am getting less than 2 volts between the + of the coil and ground and less than 2 volts between the coil side of the ballast resistor and ground with ignition on and car not running and the coil side of the wire connected to the ballast resistor. Can anyone tell me what this reading "should" be?
Thought it may be a bad ground through to the trunk where the battery is. The battery is grounded in the trunk. I disconnected the battery positive, connected a wire to battery ground and ran a wire to the front of the car. I have zero ohms between the engine side of that wire and the intake manifold. I have zero ohms between the engine side of that wire and coil positive. I have 0.5 ohms between the engine side of that wire and coil positive. Any articles on how to test would be great. I'll keep searching.
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moparleo
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A 0 ohm reading means something is wrong like an incomplete circuit.
You also need a ground strap from the engine block to the firewall.
You also need a ground strap from the engine block to the firewall.
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Sorry, I may of said that backwards. I had total continuity with no resistance from the engine, through the body of the car to negative on the battery proving that the car is grounded to the battery good. I have a 2 ought cable going form the frame rail to the engine. Should I run one to the firewall as wall as well?
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