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74 Challenger. No sheetmetal to be harmed and adding twins

74chlngrTT5.9

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i would like to see a finished wheel. i love the deep rallys

Yes, I also like the deep rally look. However most of the widening was to the inside. I want to see the look also so I will be spray bombing one and installing it completed with the trim ring and center cap for a visual. I will post it up.

Also FYI 15x7 Chevy Blazer wheels also have correct inside diameter for 14" ralleys . That is how I made my 15" ralleys.

Sure, now you let me know. That would have been easier to source...
Will log info away.
mike.
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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Prior to leaving my job I 3D modeled up in Solidworks some updated replacement hood emblems. Converted to Mastercam and did some cutting. Machined them out of some T7075 both on the same plate for consistency with a "G" shift.
CIMG5619_zps82828744.jpg

The font, letter slant and spacing was designed to mimic a broken original I have. It's glued together for the pics. Also updated for the 5.9 (360) instead of the 340 (not original to my car).
CIMG5626_zpsd78dac45.jpg
CIMG5621_zpscf9b151b.jpg
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Figured out dimensions for the best mounting pin locations that leaves the best girth remaining for strength from visual on top. Pushed my datum hole through the plate. Flipped it over and went to town. Used a boring head with the bar reversed to the inside to machine away the bottom leaving the posts and exposing the letters.
CIMG5643_zps4314a2b9.jpg
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Here it is with the mounting posts completed to size and the backing plate removed around them.
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CIMG5647_zps56cfef35.jpg

Next was to machine out the remaining bulk of material in the rear to expose the rest of the lettering. Started to like the final parts and was constantly having to slow myself down and not *uc* them up. They are fragile compared to the bulk being removed. Machined them down to like how you get the model car parts. Left a frame attaching them only in a couple of spots. The remaining "frame" was much thinner than this picture but you should get the idea.
CIMG5648_zpsd0437147.jpg

Cut the remaining frame off with a band saw to separate them. There are short vertical walls designed into the lettering that allowed me to clamp them in a vice upside down to machine the final passes and clean up the back surface to be flat. Due to my job departure I was not able to "pencil" in for finer details with smaller cutters as I originally intended but I think they still look good. I do however have another unfinished plate machined to the same level as this one started as. If it's possible in the next "career", I will finish their details further.
CIMG5650_zpsbefdbbc1.jpg
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One issue yet to be figured out is the mounting to hold them in place. I machined the mounting pins down to clear the holes in the hood, but not to fit the original style push lock style bushings. The hood's inner structure blocks direct access to them. Thinking about mounting some thin cushion tape to the back of them. Drill a small diameter hole sideways through the posts and pin them from behind somehow.
Eventually it will come out in the wash.
Mike.
 

a68postcar

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i cant see you pics Mike. i'm at work so i may have to check at home.
 

ramenth

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Plan on painting the separation of the letters?

From your first shot the "9" looked like a "0." A passing glance might be the same.
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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Plan on painting the separation of the letters?

From your first shot the "9" looked like a "0." A passing glance might be the same.

Yes, I see that also. It is in part from what I noted previously that I was not able to complete them with more detailing with smaller diameter cutters.
I will try painting the whole set and then polish off only the top surfaces. Then clear the whole thing again.
Probably a med gray when done.

i see it now. you got skills mike, you got skills.
Thank you. Hope to be able to utilize them again soon.
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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More updates for the progress...
Awhile Back, The start of this project was the purchase of a low mileage JY motor. In tear down it looks to be good. The heads were removed and there is very little cylinder wear. I have only removed a single rod and main cap to inspect the lower end. Bearings looked reasonably good and visibly the journals looked like there is no were on them. It will eventually get the full tear down and replacements as required. Also back then I started on my headers. Due to the motor being shifted off to the passenger side of the car there is very little room on that side between the exhaust port and shock tower (this is a factory shift). Initial thought was to machine the flanges out of some SS that matched the exhaust port and then quickly transition into the round tube. Eventually gave up on this due to the difficulty I was having at work. Prior to the "issues" I was allowed to machine any personal projects.
Here is one of the files made for the central ports. No longer valid though.
02-25-13-Part66_zpseb5e5c91.jpg

After scrapping that I got some 1/2" SS plate and had it water jetted. They used an exhaust gasket to layout the
program for a template. It turned out better than expected. Along with the above custom plates, the initial tubing
started out from -10 pipe. I quickly decided I didn't like the weight. Another idea scrapped (and more $$$)
All is now mandrel bent tubing.

The current (final) result is actually around the fourth/fifth iteration. Learning curve on these is to hang turbos first and then make the headers fit to them. Not the other way around...
Did plenty of measuring in car for where I wanted them and I completed them on the motor on the stand. When I went to mock up in car there were several issues to contend with that ended up forcing me to basically restart from scratch.
Through these months I have had them on and off the car many times now.
Currently they are off so I can drive the car again this summer.

Posting up because I am now starting on them again to complete all the final welding.
Early setup with original radiator relocated. I have since had to change to an aluminum radiator. It is the same basic dimensions as original but the lower hose location is slightly higher up the side. With the radiator relocated closer to the engine the lower outlet was too close to the "K" frame. I am also utilizing a dual electric fan setup from a mid 90s Chrysler. Turned out to be the exact correct width. Vertical is a bit short but not significant.
CIMG5511_zpsdbb7c7dc.jpg
CIMG5510_zpse7af91fa.jpg

Magnum water pump is just hanging in place for the mockup.
CIMG5507_zps2cd69b07.jpg
CIMG5504_zps6845d93d.jpg

Radiator will be relocated off of the core support. This spacing is what will allow the intercooler piping to pass through. As post title notes; there will be no cutting to make things fit...
I am also accommodating for an aftermarket air conditioning condenser.

CIMG5517x_zps241cf96c.jpg

On the stand some early stage shots and one side welded enough to support itself. Both sides are completed to this stage.
CIMG5499_zpse5f9de0a.jpg
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The twin blade throttle body shown is from a Lincoln. The plan (for now) is to make a custom mount for it. High enough to clear the alt and air pump but low enough to clear the hood.
I have a M1 intake manifold for the motor with the 4150 opening.
 
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Bill

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Us New Englandah's call things like that "Wicked nice"!
Very impressive!
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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pretty bad ass man.

careful of the punctuation's with that statement...
pretty bad ass, man is better than pretty bad, ass man...lol

Us New Englandah's call things like that "Wicked nice"!
Very impressive!
Knowing the statement came from New England. I cannot now say it without attempting the accent...

I have mechanical in the brain. Body work not so much.
Gonna get better when I get serious on the intercoolers after the headers are completed. Can you say jigsaw puzzle.
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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Well, recently I went to a veterans sponsored car show out here in Loma Linda. First time visiting the event and I was really impressed with the setup and layout.
Web site said they cap the registered limit at around 1000 cars. Not sure there were that many but it was quite substantial.
I plan on being more than a spectator for next year.
That is my lead in for hearing constantly from friends and family the "you should enter your car" statment. 1000 cars and there was only one other Challenger. Many of the others I attend local also never have a single Challenger in them.
So...
I did a lot of cleaning, replacing and touching up of my car this last week so I could enter another one close to home in Placentia. Much smaller, probably 200-300 cars.
From my earlier engine bay postings I realized it was also in need.
View from previous mock up for visual.
2011-11-24_13-19-34_792_zps578b448e.jpg

And the now.
CIMG5698_zpscb479f2a.jpg
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Will still eventually need to repair this damage from an unfortunate hit with a large dog (RIP).
CIMG5694_zps73091e4d.jpg

Have had a replacement for this for a long time but never put it in.
CIMG5702_zps8a2450e2.jpg
CIMG5704_zpse5928772.jpg

Here is the replacement grill cleaned and installed. Still will need to replace the surrounding strip trim. I just pounded it out a bit so it will at least be close to the correct shape.
CIMG5693_zps4e0c511f.jpg

Worked on the back also to clean it up.
Before:
CIMG5682_zps5280774c.jpg

And after. The idea was not to restore it. Just to remove several years of wear.
Painted the light recesses. Paint did not come out as flat as I would have liked. It is more of a low sheen semi gloss.
Also did some small fogging sprays of silver to lessen the reddish primer showing through.
I really like the tone of the argent that this car has. So all improvements will be as minor as possible so when the real restoration happens I will still have visual enough remaining for them to replicate.
CIMG5683_zps2ea629bb.jpg
With lenses cleaned up:
CIMG5685_zpsd5978f9a.jpg

A month or so ago I made a new package tray cover out of press board. This was also installed this past week.
102 holes drilled from both sides to prevent blowout later:
CIMG5653_zpse3b4a640.jpg
CIMG5654_zps33fa68fb.jpg

Covered in black cloth to hide the tunes holes.
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Held together with contact cement:
CIMG5656_zpsf359ead3.jpg

Placentia show was good. Didn't win anything (seemed like an early Imap@!@ bias) but finally there was a Challenger represented...
After all that work I even forgot to take pictures of it at the show. dumb@$$.
Still good though.
 
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74chlngrTT5.9

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In addition to the clean up I have also been getting a fair amount of seat time with my welder.
Been working on tying up the many started project items. Lots of time and low$$$.
Low budget update:
No additional pics but the headers are probably around 80% completed now.
Intercoolers: Purchased 2 and promptly cut the tanks off.
CIMG5710_zps2487204a.jpg

Cut up, rolled and bent some 1/8 sheet for the new tanks.
120417_17-28-56_927_zpsbc1504b8.jpg

Wonderful work bench again.
CIMG5519_zps6168413c.jpg

Started tacking them together.
CIMG5520_zpsedd7f374.jpg
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CIMG5522_zps9f943ae0.jpg

This is the lower end of them. They are still too long. It will be cut shorter and left and right elbows added that transition into the pipe diameter.
CIMG5689_zpsd943d2c8.jpg

Upper portions are to the right in this pic.
CIMG5688_zps6713903a.jpg

The mounting of these will be in front of the existing radiator core support but the piping will pass through the radiator opening. They must be loaded in from the engine side. I do know that all of these re-directions of the flow path will limit their overall efficiency. All the towards the flow bends are bent with two 45 degrees instead of a blunt 90deg to help the flow path. Overall HP goal is modest so I don't believe it will be really become an issue. The shape and profile of the piping also allows for a standard Classic Air condenser to fit.

Reminder: The radiator will be moved towards the engine off of the core support around 2-1/2 inches. When the plumbing is complete I will then make the necessary perimeter surrounding plates to channel the air properly through the radiator.

The upper piping will end up flowing over the top of the radiator so the upper opening is a 1/2 inch thick flange with an oring to seal it up. Biggest issues in the designs have been to ensure that it all can be assembled and removed. One current obstacle right now is the clamping of the upper flange and the upper piping flange to ensure the tight seal.
CIMG5687_zps3cbca2ef.jpg

Upper piping flanges.
CIMG5706_zpsbc66c045.jpg


Most of the welding will be left as is but I am grinding, sanding and smoothing off the upper parts of the tanks where they will be visible after mounting.
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Made the mounting brackets. Center piece mounts to the cars center support bar and the other 2 bolt to the core support panels. True to the build statement these all bolt on using existing holes on the car..
CIMG5691_zps96285882.jpg

Mike.
 
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74chlngrTT5.9

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I have decided to switch up some of my direction for this thread build. I wish to keep this project moving forward and also want the car's down time as minimal as possible.
Funds are currently low preventing me from building and installing the later year 5.9 sitting on the stand. That said, I already have most of the purchase items required and thus will be installing them onto my current motor. A tired 360 LA. Overall not a bad way to go because it will allow me to complete the transition in segments.
First off I am going to add a Walbro inline electric pump to eliminate the mechanical. Pressure controlled by an Aeromotive regulator that came with 2 different springs. This will allow me to initially start the turbo setup with a lower pressure setting for the carburetor and then switch springs to to run the higher pressure when converted to EFI. Adding a new 3/8 dia. SS hard line to the car and will use the car's original 5/16 one for the return line. Bought a roll of tubing and tried my first bend. The cheepo benders I have would not cut it. I made my own because stronger ones were out of my price range. That and the fact that I could just by some new hose for the same cost.
CIMG5728_zps75f3b7b6.jpg
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It worked reasonably well. Not real smooth bends like DOM but there are no kinks. On the 90 deg. bends I had to "walk" the bender around creating a radius slightly bigger than the buck I made.
Started with this
CIMG5734_zps2b5271ac.jpg

Ended with this. It follows closely the factory path.
CIMG5735_zps29aea53a.jpg
CIMG5736_zpsfb8a0918.jpg


Next up on the bucket list will be adapting the newer motor accessories onto the old motor. Purchased both versions of the TC gaskets to confirm the mounting locations are the same. All looks to be good. Harmonic balancer fore/aft position looks to be the same. The 6 Pulley bolts appear to be the same.

I also will need to drill additional mounting holes in the M1 intake manifold so it will work on the old heads.

Mike
 

a68postcar

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you got skills man. it really looks good. i wanna go for a ride.
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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Thanks but it is really second nature to me as I have been "manufacturing" forever.
What I cannot fathom is the abilities of you out there that can make them perfectly smooth and shiney...
 

74chlngrTT5.9

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Finished up my crank trigger wheel.
Welded on some tabs.
CIMG5713_zps7c8c2cb0.jpg

Set up on the rotary table, drilled and tapped for mounting bolts.
CIMG5717_zps17256f6d.jpg
CIMG5716_zps16d0f90f.jpg

Setup pulley to run true in lathe and machined a diameter on the 3 tabs and also created a flat mounting surface.
CIMG5715_zpsca8a016a.jpg

Now with a set diameter on the pulley I cut the trigger wheel ID to match.
CIMG5718_zps8dff39fb.jpg

Mounted. It has ability to adjust a full 360 deg.
CIMG5719_zps1683c9de.jpg
CIMG5721_zps17ef4383.jpg

And mounted...
CIMG5722_zpsba5f6870.jpg

Close but it clears the WP. I like when a plan comes together.
CIMG5723_zpsb760c0af.jpg

Also now fabricated a new mounting setup for the P/S pump. Original Magnum location is up high by the valve cover.
I moved it lower, similar to the Challengers original location.
First iteration was using the factory mount partially cut off and mounted to a backing plate. Looked like sh** but was functional.
CIMG5726_zps5ccab198.jpg

Picture above mounted onto the lower plate in this pic.
CIMG5740_zps2305a9b7.jpg
I had it all mounted and would have worked okay with the Magnum motor. It had to be revamped now that I am going to continue build on existing LA motor. Good excuse to throw away the ugly crap.

Original back plate I made is still being used. Modified but used.
Cardboard mock up for the front.
CIMG5724_zps4427d4b2.jpg

This is also a Mock up pulley. I bored the ID out so it will just slip on and off during all the trial tests.
CIMG5725_zps37aac530.jpg

Child like sketching. lol
CIMG5730_zpscb87edb2.jpg

Hacking and drilling
CIMG5733_zpsb6ed1eda.jpg

Multiple spacers and bolts later. Magnum version had to be bolted to the block for stability. It now mounts only to the TC cover and WP mounting bolts and will work with either motor setup.
CIMG5752_zps4d652207.jpg
CIMG5753_zps08143aaf.jpg


A little more clearances added to the upper and lower areas of the plate to clear for other mounting screws. Also had to counter bore the bolts to clear the belt and the ones (not visible) behind the pulley.
CIMG5751_zps6efba41f.jpg

Latest money shot.
Also modified the tension pulley slightly so it is also rotated closer to the engine for more clearance.
I will next make a dummy pulley to temporarily replace the AC pump.
Crank trigger wheel is on also.
CIMG5750_zps435d0535.jpg

I have a new job now and my hope is that it doesn't severely impact my progress.
But it will however improve my buying power.
Woo Hoo
Mike.
 
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