I posted previously about sticking rear brakes on my AAR. Today I tried to bleed the Rt Rear brake cylinder. This is the one that has been sticking after driving a couple of miles ( car comes to complete stop without using the brake pedal). I opened the bleeder screw, attached hose to it and pumped the brake pedal several times. Nothing came out the bleeder but when I took the cap off the master cylinder the fluid in the front reservoir was a nasty milky yellow color. I then siphoned the rear brake "chamber", refilled it and tried again, Same issue-yellow/milky fluid in the chamber. took the bleeder screw out completely then pumped the brake and not a drop came out of the wheel cylinder. how do I proceed from this point?
AAR Rear brakes
- Thread starter Obash
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Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
Undo the line to the brake cylinder & see if fluid comes out , if yes replace the cylinder , if not undo the line into the flex hose to the diff & see if you get fluid ther , if not go to the proprtioning valve & see if you get fluid there
moparleo
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Also determine what contaminated the fluid. You nay end up replacing every component that uses a rubber seal. Eg wheel cylinders, calipers all 3 flex hoses, master cylinder, rebuild prop valve. Replace/flush out steel lines completely. Personally. the brake system is the most important system on the car, Safety wise.
Preventative maintenance. Star with a new, not rebuilt master cylinder and just replace the complete system including hard lines.
Replacement pre-bent lines are available for nominal money compared to what a brake system failure can cost.
The car is over 50 years old with an unknown history.
Replace and keep fresh/new brake fluid in the system. No wasted time diagnosing something that you can't see into.
Start new and with peace of mind/safety.
Preventative maintenance. Star with a new, not rebuilt master cylinder and just replace the complete system including hard lines.
Replacement pre-bent lines are available for nominal money compared to what a brake system failure can cost.
The car is over 50 years old with an unknown history.
Replace and keep fresh/new brake fluid in the system. No wasted time diagnosing something that you can't see into.
Start new and with peace of mind/safety.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The above information is good. To start. Drum drum, drum disc or other system.
Yes I would say you need to do a complete brake system rebuild. It will be a lot easer then trying to fix a multitude of issues. The use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
It could be a shoe or caliper hanging up or the paring brake hanging up( Not adjusted correctly). The rubber brake hose or hoses might be bad inside and act as a check valve.
Yes I would say you need to do a complete brake system rebuild. It will be a lot easer then trying to fix a multitude of issues. The use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
Last edited:
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Just a passing thought. If it is original see about getting it rebuilt. Or hang onto it if you do get a reman. Use something else for a core.
It is not the original. Doesn’t look anything like any of the AAR pics I’ve looked at.
Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations as to which brake line kit works best? Stainless steel or original type?
mrmopar340
Well-Known Member
Stainless is one and done. The ones I put under my car will outlast me.
A very useless thread without pics
please post pics - master cyl with the funny colored fluid
rear brakes with the drum off
pics of the brake lines
type of fluid you are using - i see no need for dot 5 but the experts will tell you to use it
btw do not use stainless steel line unless you like chasing leaks and working with tubing that does not want to bend
please post pics - master cyl with the funny colored fluid
rear brakes with the drum off
pics of the brake lines
type of fluid you are using - i see no need for dot 5 but the experts will tell you to use it
btw do not use stainless steel line unless you like chasing leaks and working with tubing that does not want to bend
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I use copper nickel line and make my own. Bends easer then steel. One is always enough for a car. I keep a roll around for family friends and my enemies.
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DOT3 fluid. It was a milky yellow color. I siphoned the master cylinder and refilled it.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
That's moisture. There are a few brake fluids that don't. Dot 5.1 and it won't damage paint.
Yeah, that's what I figured. There was some rusty chunks in the reservoir bowls. I bought new wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Will pull apart and see what else needs to be replaced. I've seen complete kits from Inline tube and Classic industries. Flipping a coin as to using SS or original type steel.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I flipped the coin a few times and it would land on the edge. It would always put me on edge when the brake line would go. Of course 2' of snow and a ridicules wind chill. The steel PVC coated only last a few years on my truck. 3-4 years I think. I don't think the steel is getting any better. I can't speak about SS. But having done brake lines for decades. I can understand that SS is harder and difficult to flair and to seal. That's why I use the copper nickel. I made up my lines from the line I took off. Trial and error then fit!
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