Moparbandit
Member
I just swiched out the drums on ths front of my challenger for a set of factory ebody disc set up... it was an easy swap but now the front drag so bad that the car is hard to drive... help!!!
Brakes Draging
- Thread starter Moparbandit
- Start date
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
So you didn't swap the master cylinder when you added the disc brakes !! The master has a residual pressure valve retaining 10 psi in the front brakes , the return springs in the drums overcome the 10 PSI but with disc it will not . 2 choices here , you can remove the brake line at the master , insert a drywall screw & pull out the brass insert & remove the rubber residual pressure valve behind the brass insert then re-install the brass insert or you can replace the master with a true disc brake unit intended for disc .
74 challenger
Well-Known Member
is the pressure valve were all the brack lines bolt onto under the master cylinder?is that the brack portion valve?those are different for disc and drum yes?
3404speed
Well-Known Member
I'm sure he meant the residual valve is in the master cylinder and that is where to modify.
Personally, I would buy a new master cylinder designated for disc brakes as it has a larger reservoir for the necessary fluid needed for operating the disc brake pistons.
You may be fine with the proportioning vale(combo valve that splits the lines, front and back) that is on the car.
Personally, I would buy a new master cylinder designated for disc brakes as it has a larger reservoir for the necessary fluid needed for operating the disc brake pistons.
You may be fine with the proportioning vale(combo valve that splits the lines, front and back) that is on the car.
Moparbandit
Member
Wow... I had no clue!... ok and I can keep the manual aspect I don't also have to buy a booster and proportioning valve?
3404speed
Well-Known Member
If it is manual now, yes you can keep it that way, and not put on a power booster. Just replace the Master cylinder with manual disc/drum unit.
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
The residual pressure valve is inside the master , remove the brake line to the front brakes , usually rear line on the master & remove the brass insert inside where the line bolts up , you will find the rubber residual valve in there .
Yes you can have manual disc brakes , I often do them this way .
The proprtioning valve may be ok but often the rear brakes will lock up too early so you may need to replace the prop valve with an adjustable one from wilwood to balance the braking system front to rear .
Yes you can have manual disc brakes , I often do them this way .
The proprtioning valve may be ok but often the rear brakes will lock up too early so you may need to replace the prop valve with an adjustable one from wilwood to balance the braking system front to rear .
Moparbandit
Member
is it hard to adjust the new valve... ive heard horror stories but i havent done one yet
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
you can buy an adjuastable 5 port Wilwood valve , it is adjusted simply by turning a knob
