Challenger 440 Center Link Rubbing Oil Pan

[Hope]

Good afternoon all,

I’ve been trying to get this car back together for years now and finally putting the steering/suspension back together. Using all factory parts, minus Hotchkis tie rods, my original center link wants to rub the oil pan. Oil pan is a Mopar 7 qt. deep sump. Was originally a 318 car, but had a 383 in it when I bought the car and had no issues. I also swapped out the 727 for a Tremec TKO600 5-speed.

I am having the same issue!!!! Center link rubbing on oil pan! So last year motor mounts were changed, center link was rubbing then, So this year new rub, Idler arm replaced and in correct, still rubbing. My guy is planning on adding shims to the mounts and to trannie mount next week!

 

[chargerdon]

Another option is to lower the center link bar!!

How? Simple, loosen the three bolts holding the steering box to the frame, and put a small shim in at the top and tighten back down. An 1/8 inch shim at the top will give at least 1/4 or more at the bottom end. This will change the angle of the pitman arm and lower the the center link bar !! I had to do this on my 74 challenger, not for pan clearance, but for a little more clearance for the Patriot Headers as the center link bar grease fitting was hitting the lowest header tube.

A heck of a lot cheaper than changing the pan or messing with the motor mounts as shimming the mounts will raise the engine and you might already be tight on hood clearance.

 

[Flchallenger]

I have a Tremec 5 speed. It is pushed is far up as it can go to get drive line angles. If I raised the motor that would change that angle. If you raise the motor at the front that will push the tail of the trans down. Something to keep in mind. Also if you shim the steering box will this affect it moving and flexing when it turns. How safe is doing this? Any ideas? I have done it in the past but it concerns me. but this may be the route I go.

 

[Flchallenger]

I have one of the QA1 k frames and thought that might help. Original was damaged so I had to swap it out. More room though and lighter

 

[70chall440]

I have a Tremec 5 speed. It is pushed is far up as it can go to get drive line angles. If I raised the motor that would change that angle. If you raise the motor at the front that will push the tail of the trans down. Something to keep in mind. Also if you shim the steering box will this affect it moving and flexing when it turns. How safe is doing this? Any ideas? I have done it in the past but it concerns me. but this may be the route I go.

Guess the amount of flex might be dependent on how hard you drive the car. I am not a fan of shimming the box personally unless I were using a full shim where the box retains the same amount of surface contact. That said however is stock boxes flex to some degree.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You can also oval the lower hole in the K frame for the idler arm & tip the arm down away from the oil pan .

 

[k2steve]

Another option is to lower the center link bar!!

How? Simple, loosen the three bolts holding the steering box to the frame, and put a small shim in at the top and tighten back down. An 1/8 inch shim at the top will give at least 1/4 or more at the bottom end. This will change the angle of the pitman arm and lower the the center link bar !! I had to do this on my 74 challenger, not for pan clearance, but for a little more clearance for the Patriot Headers as the center link bar grease fitting was hitting the lowest header tube.

A heck of a lot cheaper than changing the pan or messing with the motor mounts as shimming the mounts will raise the engine and you might already be tight on hood clearance.

I did not see that option when I was fighting this problem, I put the shims in with new mounts.