Clutch throwout fork question

[Blackcatstrat]

Hopefully an easy question...
On a A833 clutch fork are the throwout bearing contacts somewhat offset or should they be parallel?
Meaning does the fork contact the bearing at somewhat of an angle at the contact points?
Tried finding some picts on line but none show the fork at the angle I need.
This is for a 73 E-body.
The fork does not look bent and at least on the bench it seems to function ok.
Many Thanks!
Jer

 

[Adrian Worman]

Yep that's how they are, they look like they are hanging down a little on the actuating rod end but it all works fine. Unless your using existing components just make sure you use the correct length fork.
Brewers website has good clear pics &application info

 

[Blackcatstrat]

Thank you Adrian, good to hear. I started pulling everything out of the box of "stuff" and dry fitting things together and saw that I was like WTF..(#_+!@)#(+!


Have a great Christmas..
Jer

 

[Blackcatstrat]

I decided to just get a new one, the ends on this were pretty chewed. I tried re-welding the ends to dress them up but its not making good contact with the bearing. (Not sitting in the center of the bearing) and coming off the bearing when pressing the clutch in a few times.
The fork seems to be on the pivot all the way and the torque rod all seems set up correctly.
Not sure what happened to this fork but it was bad lol..

Also finding that even though I can get proper clutch adjustment its right near the end of the adjustment so I'm not liking that.
I have heard you can run an A body rod which is longer but those don't look like they have the angled end?
I contacted Brewers to get their take on it, we'll see what they say.

I just put in a new McLoud diaphragm type clutch with the over center spring removed.

Jer

Yep that's how they are, they look like they are hanging down a little on the actuating rod end but it all works fine. Unless your using existing components just make sure you use the correct length fork.
Brewers website has good clear pics &application info

 

[Adrian Worman]

Hi Jer
The fork lengths are matched to the Z bar levers for each different body style, A, B, E bodies etc.
The different linkage lengths are desgned by the factory to give optimum leverage at the throw out bearing whilst still giving a reasonably comfortable amount of pedal effort.
Thats assuming your using the factory style clutch assembly, but if you've installed any type of diaphragm clutch you have a chance to play around with different length forks and even modifying the existing Z bar if you want.
Obviously the overcenter spring needs to be removed or sometimes the pedal can stay on the floor once depressed, the least it will do is to screw your new bearing.

McCleod stuff is very good for street strip use, I've run Centerforce and Zoom diaphragm cluthes before and they would'nt last more than a couple of years behind my 440.
I'm using one of the carbon/ceramic dual friction uniots now and its been brilliant so far.

 

[Adrian Worman]

I forgot to add that at only 70 or &0 $ for new forks you may as well get one and be done with it.
I've never seen that tab that the fork pivots on fail either.

 

[Blackcatstrat]

Thanks once again Adrian!
New parts should be here tomorrow, things go good I might get to take the old girl for a spin down the driveway tomorrow. (Long drive way
Will be the first time the car has moved on its own in 10 years.
All the Exhaust parts won't be in so I will just have to do it with open headers....sigh..the humanity....

Jer

I forgot to add that at only 70 or &0 $ for new forks you may as well get one and be done with it.
I've never seen that tab that the fork pivots on fail either.

 

[Adrian Worman]

I love that moment when you sit in that seat, motor on open headers, shaking with excitement like a silly kid!
I envy you mate........... post up a few pix of the event