Hello;
The key point here is the aluminum radiator, etc. Combined with he iron engine this is a corrosion sensitive setup. Use a HOAT fluid, which has the anti corrosion chemistry to make this live.
Leave the old green stuff for the all iron motors with brass radiators.
Mark
This is an old thread, but others will read it so I will add my two cents. I agree the HOAT coolant will help the aluminum components. Also it’s ok to use straight green coolant with NO water in an iron engine. I have been doings this for decades will no ill effects or overheating. This is my reasoning: Water is corrosive. Ever have a pool? You must continually test the water and add chemicals to keep the water ph in balance. If the ph is low (acidic) the water will eventually eat the pipes, the plaster, and the grout b/t the tiles. If the ph is high it will leave the dissolved solids on the surface (hard water deposits), we have all seen this, most of us have hard water in our homes. The reason there are hard water deposits (dissolved minerals) is: water is NOT ph neutral, it will corrode iron and dissolve some rocks and carry the dissolved solids in solution. Anyone have to re-pipe their house because of galvanized pipes? I did….some parts of the pipe were rusting thru, while other sections were clogged with rusty crap.
Anything below 7 ph is considered acidic; distilled water can have a ph as low as 5! Don’t take my word for it, check some distilled water with a cheap pool test kit… Water and iron = rust. Aluminum is much softer than iron… how do the coolant passages look on an old aluminum intake manifold? Why put water in your engine? If you must use water, use neutral ph water…. Good luck finding that.
Oh, and the last part of my rant… back in the 80s/90s we heard much about acid rain destroying all the trees. Well, if you test the ph of rain water, guess what… acidic.
