Fedup with Fitech
- Thread starter tonysrt
- Start date
Just an update. as my testing made
Update. my testing was correct, i just got word back from Fitech that there was a bad connection inside the ecu and they replaced it under warranty and are sending it back today
When I had initial problems and sent it back, I sent both bodies, it cost me $55. They said it was the oxygen sensor. I have the dual throttle bodies, and I would assume it would be the main body that is the problem. It's just strange it happened after 2 years. Good call with the diagnosis. Did you call them or email them? After this dilemma, I've been thinking about the Edelbrock 4 that just came out. Will put that on hold till this Fitech problem might be solved.
I called them, and they emailed me a form to fill out and a copy of the receipt. then they sent me a RMA. i sent it off on monday and just got it back today so 1 week turn around including shipping.
i have the edelbrock pro flo 3 on the 440 in my van, of course they discontinued it 3 months after i bought it and came out with the 4 at 2/3rd the price. it works well, i think the fitech is more tunable. From what ive read, the new pro flo 4 tuning is more like the fitech
i have the edelbrock pro flo 3 on the 440 in my van, of course they discontinued it 3 months after i bought it and came out with the 4 at 2/3rd the price. it works well, i think the fitech is more tunable. From what ive read, the new pro flo 4 tuning is more like the fitech
Well to finish up what has transpired with my FiTech after I sent it to them, they reported the ECU was bad and they replaced it under warranty. I'll wait till warmer weather to put it back on. Sure makes me leery about it now, because how can I trouble shoot this or even get the engine running again. Maybe keep the carbs in the trunk just in case.
I had a couple of Fitech problems recently 1 was a friend installed a multipoint into his 440 Challenger when he tried to start it would throw up all sorts of errors so armed with my trusty multimeter we started to fault find after 1/2 hour we found the problem all the sensors have an analog ground so they connect 3 of the sensor wires into 1 then run back to the ECU they had soldered the connection then put heatshrink over the top & when they heated the heatshrink they overheated the connection causing the solder to melt and the wires seperated resoldered problem solved runs like a dream.
The second was my 340 has the new 6 pack injection & was running fine until the blaster 2 coil flashed a HV through the MSD insulator into the injector connection damaging the ECU fitech said they would replace the ECU under warranty but due to being in Australia & having a 6 to 8 week turn around i requested the price on a new ECU $225 USD a worker here has a go EFI 600 power adder & the ECU for that was $225 as well so he got a spare .
If a EFI whatever make goes faulty in Australia it is a 4 week turn around so a spare is good insurance.
The second was my 340 has the new 6 pack injection & was running fine until the blaster 2 coil flashed a HV through the MSD insulator into the injector connection damaging the ECU fitech said they would replace the ECU under warranty but due to being in Australia & having a 6 to 8 week turn around i requested the price on a new ECU $225 USD a worker here has a go EFI 600 power adder & the ECU for that was $225 as well so he got a spare .
If a EFI whatever make goes faulty in Australia it is a 4 week turn around so a spare is good insurance.
But my question is how do you know the ECU is bad? Is there a specific readout on the handheld? I'm over 70 so a little out of step with all this new Technology. My 05 Ram with 5.7 and F.I. has never missed a beat in the 14 years I've had it. That's what we are looking for in this new F.I. invasion, dependability and instant start in all kinds of weather.
Normally you would plug in the handheld controller & check the error log which would show a sensor fault in case of a ECU failure probably not basically if the screen does not show a fault & you believe the unit is acting up after checking input power & fuel supply is sufficient then it is likely to assume it is an ECU fault
On mine i have a fuel pressure digital readout that way i can tell if the fuel pump has a problem or the filters are clogged.
The Fitech should provide the same reliability as your ram EFI it comes down to the construction technique & quality control plus if they have used lower spec electronic components in the construction or military grade that would not cost much more making the ECU more tolerant to extreme heat in the engine compartment most standard components are rated at 125 C .
It will be like carburetor development over the last 50 years there will be advances in fault reporting & fault monitoring
What i would like to see added is a fuel flow sensor that way they can analyze & indicate fuel consumption plus usage .
Adam
Well-Known Member
Good tech AUSTA!
gzig5
Well-Known Member
They shouldn't need a fuel flow sensor, they have one built in. The injector flows at a given rate. They control the duty cycle of the injectors. Multiply injector open time times the flow rate and you get gallons per hour (GPH) of fuel flow. You can then come up with the algorithms to compute MPG and miles to empty if you know how much is in the tank. That's how all that works on a modern car. Might need a fudge factor to dial it in but it is very doable. Surprised you can't get that data off the controller screen.
Of course that does work as long as the fuel pressure remains constant , i have separate controller that can measure injector pulses + pulse width i will have to program it to see how accurate it is
Injector control signal (PWM) or dedicated fuel consumption signal (PWM/FREQ)
This is the gauge i made up to measure the pulses from the fitech the electronics is available aftermarket but had to make a new circuit board to fit into the speedhut housing every gauge can be programmed for imp or metric also does 0 to 60 feet & 1/4 mile times the boot screen is also programmable to your own bmp
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