Freshly Rebuilt Engine Leaking
- Thread starter Gumby
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
If there is a warranty I wouldn't touch it. Show the shop and machine shop the video. That's on them.
Where the heads and block machined etc. Was it assembled correctly.
Where the heads and block machined etc. Was it assembled correctly.
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Mopar Mitch
Well-Known Member
From the oil pan pics, it appears that the front (and perhaps the rear) rubber oil pan end seals are white in color? They should be black...unless the gasket set is some off-brand overseas company. I'd try re-tightening the oil pan bolts... smoothly, evenly, not over-tightening.
Gumby
Active Member
Okay, so Jeff (the mechanic) just gave me a call back after seeing the video. He suspects I'm onto something with the fuel pump block-off plate leaking out of the gasket. He doesn't believe the cylinder head gaskets or intake manifold gaskets are leaking, rather his hunch is that the fan is blowing on the leak from the fuel pump block-off plate which is blowing UV dye all over the front of the engine case. He did acknowledge the leak in the rear and suggested I check the torque on the oil pan bolts.
His suggestion for the front of the engine is to remove the fuel pump block-off plate, scrape off any of the existing gasket and use an oil-resistant sealer around the rim/mating surface before putting it back on and waiting for it to cure overnight. He said to start there and see if I have anymore leaks showing up.
Yes, normally the front and rear end seals are black rubber pieces that join with separate cork gaskets running along each side of the oil pan. He likes to use a 1-piece rubber gasket from Felpro that ties all four pieces (the two end seals and the oil pan side gaskets) together. He said it's a great gasket product that they prefer to use, but that it's not to say that it will never leak. So he suggested I try tightening up the oil pan bolts.
His suggestion for the front of the engine is to remove the fuel pump block-off plate, scrape off any of the existing gasket and use an oil-resistant sealer around the rim/mating surface before putting it back on and waiting for it to cure overnight. He said to start there and see if I have anymore leaks showing up.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The fuel pump block-off plate leaking out of the gasket.In my opinion if it leaked would only be on that side. I would document the ok to repair yourself,via text or other.
Gumby
Active Member
Yeah, I firmly believe that as well, but I have to run his suggestions first to show that it's more than just the fuel pump block-off cover gasket.
That would have been smart. I already did the work, though. I put a new gasket on there, coating the outside of it with prime seal and the inside with high temp gasket maker. Then I cleaned, checked, and torqued each and every oil pan bolt, one at a time.
I also found that the dipstick tube was loose in the hole so when I took it out to inspect, I noticed there were holes above the snout.
My friend welded that up and ground down the excess. Then I flared the end, slathered it with high temp gasket maker and put it back in.
I cleaned up the engine cases real nicely and then took a video of before and after driving the car 100 miles. I found a lot of the same leaks and I believe the video shows that they're not coming from the fuel pump block-off plate or the dipstick tube. You can view the video by clicking here.
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
I understand you have to play his suggestions out. Don't let the individual keep playing it out. The problem has to be found to be corrected. It being others error it is on them. I myself don't mind trying to resolve a problem in the long run it helps every one out. But there is a point where the shop has to address it in some form. Myself I would communicate via text or email,phone conversations are hear say. It's best to have documentation If it goes that far.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The timing case cover can be an issue sometimes.I use Permatex black RTV. Let it set a little bit so it has structure, then tighten up. same for oil pan but I like the grey sealer. Might have to drop oil pan and inspect front of crank for wear and rear. the oil slinger is probably on or you would have a lot more oil. The heads I would re torque If that doesn't work take the bolts out and check for stretch and good threads. Change gaskets TOO? CHASE ALL THREADS! Oil pan gasket flange not sealing tight,bent?
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Gumby
Active Member
I find it interesting that you prefer black RTV for the timing chain cover gasket and the grey stuff for the oil pan gasket. Care to explain this methodology?
I'll wait to hear from Jeff before I go this deep. I hope at this point, he'll just take it back and inspect this stuff himself rather than tell me to do it.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The black RTV I can get in a tube for a calking gun.can be quickly and liberally applied.later after it dries trim up with a razor blade.I had an issue with the oil filter adapter leaking. If it was the mating surface or that I was using a drill with high speed of 3600 rpms on a high volume pump when priming. [redid it 3-4 times] Happens to the best of us,give them a chance. I wanted be sure it wasn't going to leak. For some reason I like the grey better in areas that might have more flex,like the oil pan valve covers.Intake area lager gap. A little more pricey but it works. never seen it locally in a caulking tube.
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boydsdodge
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The one piece oil pan gasket is for Magnum 5.2 and 5.9 engine, if you do not have a Magnum oil pan, or your oil pan has not been modified to accept the one piece gaset then you will have leaks at the front and rear corners of oil pan at the main seal to pan rail area. Here is a photo of the modification to an LA oil pan.
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