Header studs?

[heminut]

You bought carburetor studs to use as header studs You’ll need three packs of those. I got 12 polished stainless steel header studs cheaper than those.

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I doubt that, carb studs are longer than header studs.

 

[Bret Schneider]

The exhaust bolt holes on the Edelbrock Performer heads are blind holes. They don't extend into the water jackets like on the factory heads.

 

[Mopar Nut]

I give up, you win, you saved 5 bucks

I’m a tightwad.

 

[JKCuda]

I ended up going with these. Should be here tomorrow.

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Summit has them as fitting a 340/360, but they do not. They are 3/8 studs and are too big for my J heads. Back they go and I will order carb studs.

 

[Mopar Nut]

I used the hex ones, and what isn't expensive on these cars, i actually thought they were pretty reasonable. they are about $4 each with the flared nut and washer. I got the black oxide ones at summit racing. part # 200-2401

I didn’t know small block heads used a smaller stud until @JKCuda posted the studs he purchased. Your idea of using carburetor studs is a great idea.

You learn something new every day.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Just my 2¢. I do believe stainless steel is a grade 2 depending what the alloys are. Myself I wouldn't use them unless they were specifically made for that application. I remove way to many exhaust studs to think a lower grade would be more apt to brake. Back in the 70's Pb Blast and heat were the go to items. And yes welded nuts on studs too to remove them in the field.

 

[JKCuda]

I didn’t know small block heads used a smaller stud until @JKCuda posted the studs he purchased. Your idea of using carburetor studs is a great idea.

You learn something new every day.

Yeah, it's a real PITA too because no one seems to make a true aftermarket polished set of any kind. I may just end up having to go with the bolts and deal with having to drain the coolant. I really don't want to use the black oxide stock studs.

Just my 2¢. I do believe stainless steel is a grade 2 depending what the alloys are. Myself I wouldn't use them unless they were specifically made for that application. I remove way to many exhaust studs to think a lower grade would be more apt to brake. Back in the 70's Pb Blast and heat were the go to items. And yes welded nuts on studs too to remove them in the field.

This was my worry about the carb studs as well... I only bought one set, and since ARP doesn't list the type of steel used besides "stainless", I may just use the bolts TTI provided and deal with having to drain the coolant if the headers need removed and use these carb studs on my carb to replace the cheapies I have on there now.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Classicindustries.com 70-74 318-360 71-73 340 Exhaust manifold hardware kit . Bight the bullet at $55. Or 4 or how many you want. Year one at $4.99 + sh. https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/fd1728​

Exhaust manifold stud-Each stud comes with a nut (originals were brass and used a washer). Includes both 5/16"-18 and 5/16"-24 stud ends. 5/16 X 1.69 GR5 STUD .50 UNC. or go to an auto parts store.

 

[JKCuda]

Classicindustries.com 70-74 318-360 71-73 340 Exhaust manifold hardware kit . Bight the bullet at $55. Or 4 or how many you want. Year one at $4.99 + sh. https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/fd1728​

Exhaust manifold stud-Each stud comes with a nut (originals were brass and used a washer). Includes both 5/16"-18 and 5/16"-24 stud ends. 5/16 X 1.69 GR5 STUD .50 UNC. or go to an auto parts store.

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Yeah I saw those, they'll eventually rust though the same as the black oxide ones. I'm a bit of a clean/neat freak with dress up. I already have some cheapo header bolts installed with my old headers, firing the new engine tomorrow, then I will swap in the TTI's after I heat cycle it 2-3 times. Don't foresee having to swap headers again any time soon so will probably just use the bolts I have for now, but thanks.

 

[Xcudame]

I'm with Challenger RTA, use grade 8 exhaust studs. There is nothing worse than removing a broken off exhaust studs/bolt/screw while the engine is still in the car!!! Especially when it breaks off even with the cylinder head!

 

[JKCuda]

I'm with Challenger RTA, use grade 8 exhaust studs. There is nothing worse than removing a broken off exhaust studs/bolt/screw while the engine is still in the car!!! Especially when it breaks off even with the cylinder head!

Oh I know. My daily is a Ram 1500. I know all about broken exhaust bolts....

 

[don selleck]

Summit has them as fitting a 340/360, but they do not. They are 3/8 studs and are too big for my J heads. Back they go and I will order carb studs.

you may be able to type in the summit search for a standard carb stud, instead of the black oxide, not sure. I used anti sieze also mainly because of the aluminum heads, as long as you don't tighten the hell out of them should be good, used them on other small block applications. you may be able to order some grade 10 from elon just to make sure.

 

[JKCuda]

you may be able to type in the summit search for a standard carb stud, instead of the black oxide, not sure. I used anti sieze also mainly because of the aluminum heads, as long as you don't tighten the hell out of them should be good, used them on other small block applications. you may be able to order some grade 10 from elon just to make sure.

I'm on J heads...just gonna run the bolts for now because that's what I have. Need to get the car running don't want to keep waiting on dumb little parts.

 

[heminut]

I'm on J heads...just gonna run the bolts for now because that's what I have. Need to get the car running don't want to keep waiting on dumb little parts.

I would definitely use anti-seize on bolts or studs, even on cast iron heads.

 

[moparroy]

I found some SS on ebay. Worked great but front and back only. Bolts for the middle 6

 

[6PKRTSE]

As mentioned ARP. They have whatever size s.s. stud you need and sell in bulk if you can't find them in the blister packs. I used s.s. studs on my entire engine externally where ever possible.

 

[CHUCK MILLER]

Ok, am I blind or does no one make a polished header stud kit for the small block? I’m getting ready to install my TTI headers finally and they only came with bolts, no studs for the water jacket holes. I searched hi and low but can’t find anything stainless or polished. Do I just need to buy an repro set from Roseville or somewhere and deal with the black hardware?

don't use ss they will bind up and lock up

 

[6PKRTSE]

don't use ss they will bind up and lock up

A dab of anti-seize. Never had an issue.

 

[Mopar Nut]

A dab of anti-seize. Never had an issue.

X2

Never had a problem.

 

[JKCuda]

As mentioned ARP. They have whatever size s.s. stud you need and sell in bulk if you can't find them in the blister packs. I used s.s. studs on my entire engine externally where ever possible.

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I dunno man I tried ARP and I could not find any 5/16 header studs. I could only find 3/8 studs, or 5/16 bolts. Not saying they don't exist, but I couldn't find them anywhere.

Edit: that motor is nasty looking!