Mopar 426 Block for sale

[sdcbowler]

A 413 is a wedge... there is no question...

OK. Understood....Thanks

 

[Fordication]

OK. Understood....Thanks

Who would have thunk I would learn so much about an engine in so little time.

 

[Cuda416]

OK. Understood....Thanks

Sorry, not trying to come off as short.

Most engines if they aren't a hemi of some type, are some derivative of a wedge. Chevy, ford, honda, whatever. Basically, it describes the shape of the combustion chamber as viewed from the side of you were to slice it in half.

Wanna have some fun? Try telling someone who doesn't know, that the 5.9 magnum never existed in the 70's, when other engines and cars, were called "Magnums".... Some heated discussions ensue, let me tell you...

 

[Cuda416]

Wedge

HEMI

 

[heminut]

It's a wedge engine. Most of the industrial engines had a cam that was designed for a specific RPM range because those engines were quite often used in applications where they were ran at a set RPM for long periods of time. Back in the day, there were a lot of Chrysler 354 hemi industrial engines used in this area for irrigation pumps and the cam in them was designed to run at a specific RPM range. Anything outside that range and they were dogs.

 

[i_taz]

I am not sure what you are talking about. I stated that I could not find most parts and had to buy used parts for the mustang. I have not bought any parts for my Challenger as of yet, I am still doing research which is what started this conversation to start off with. I asked about the 426 block because I did not know if it was the same as the hemi. I found out that it was not and that a 383-440 were pretty much the same and no need to ask any more questions. I commented that I was happily surprised to find that the mopar revolution is producing parts at a reasonable price in comparison to many of my projects in the past. I am happy for that since I plan on this Challenger to be my last project. I am selling my others, starting with my 93 Ford F150 4x4 Flare side that is completed. Then the Mustang, maybe the Cougar, or it might go to my wife. I may finish the 54 Ford Truck since I already have a rebuilt 312 Y block for it but the body got destroyed when a tree fell over it in a hurricane. So if I do, it will be my last project. I turn 60 this year so I do not want to have to leave these cars for my wife to sell if I die and with my kind of work, that's always a possibility. Covid taught me that. Anyway, that's my opinion on things.

If your looking for more general Mopar info I suggest you also join the sister site for B bodies since there's a much larger pool of cars and resources for BB, especially..... This would be considered more of a Cougar type site... Same info, just less of it

 

[sdcbowler]

Sorry, not trying to come off as short.

Most engines if they aren't a hemi of some type, are some derivative of a wedge. Chevy, ford, honda, whatever. Basically, it describes the shape of the combustion chamber as viewed from the side of you were to slice it in half.

Wanna have some fun? Try telling someone who doesn't know, that the 5.9 magnum never existed in the 70's, when other engines and cars, were called "Magnums".... Some heated discussions ensue, let me tell you...

It's OK. No problem at all. You taught me something I never knew, and I am grateful.

 

[sdcbowler]

It's a wedge engine. Most of the industrial engines had a cam that was designed for a specific RPM range because those engines were quite often used in applications where they were ran at a set RPM for long periods of time. Back in the day, there were a lot of Chrysler 354 hemi industrial engines used in this area for irrigation pumps and the cam in them was designed to run at a specific RPM range. Anything outside that range and they were dogs.

Cool,

Given what you just told me, would the engine be worth rebuilding. It has a 440 crank (cast), 440 damper, both heads are 4006452 which were also used on 400-440 engines. I was glad to find this out cuz the guy I purchased it from told me it was a 440 (this was back when I didn't know much). As a result, all the parts I was purchasing was for a 440. I am assuming they will fit (Cam, Electronic Ignition, Oil Pump, Fuel Pump, Intake, Lifters, Push Rods, Timing Chain, Alternator). What is your take?

 

[Cuda416]

You might enjoy reading this...

440 Source.com Everything you've ever wanted to know about blocks and more....

Big differences in the big blocks is the deck height. 413/426/440 are RB (raised block) and the deck is an inch taller than that of a 383/400 (B block). I believe the dizzy and intake are the big parts diffs, but others might say otherwise. I'm not a huge big block fan. Awesome engines, but I "prefer" something lighter. That said, you can make a mean little (big) motor out of a 400 by stuffing a 440 crank into it (451 cid) that will spin up like a chainsaw. Also, the cranks in industrial engines can have 8 bolts I think which isn't standard for a car. So if that crank is an industrial one, you would be better off finding a one for a car. Not hard to find at all. heads all interchange. 452 I think are open chamber heads, so that's a thing. Closed chamber 915's would be better if you can find them.

Anyway, there's some ramblings, hopefully I'm not making a fool of myself. If I am, surely someone will put me in my place

 

[heminut]

Cool,

Given what you just told me, would the engine be worth rebuilding. It has a 440 crank (cast), 440 damper, both heads are 4006452 which were also used on 400-440 engines. I was glad to find this out cuz the guy I purchased it from told me it was a 440 (this was back when I didn't know much). As a result, all the parts I was purchasing was for a 440. I am assuming they will fit (Cam, Electronic Ignition, Oil Pump, Fuel Pump, Intake, Lifters, Push Rods, Timing Chain, Alternator). What is your take?

All the parts you have listed will still work in your engine build.

 

[sdcbowler]

All the parts you have listed will still work in your engine build.

Wow.....even more good news. Thanks

 

[sdcbowler]

You might enjoy reading this...

440 Source.com Everything you've ever wanted to know about blocks and more....

Big differences in the big blocks is the deck height. 413/426/440 are RB (raised block) and the deck is an inch taller than that of a 383/400 (B block). I believe the dizzy and intake are the big parts diffs, but others might say otherwise. I'm not a huge big block fan. Awesome engines, but I "prefer" something lighter. That said, you can make a mean little (big) motor out of a 400 by stuffing a 440 crank into it (451 cid) that will spin up like a chainsaw. Also, the cranks in industrial engines can have 8 bolts I think which isn't standard for a car. So if that crank is an industrial one, you would be better off finding a one for a car. Not hard to find at all. heads all interchange. 452 I think are open chamber heads, so that's a thing. Closed chamber 915's would be better if you can find them.

Anyway, there's some ramblings, hopefully I'm not making a fool of myself. If I am, surely someone will put me in my place

I haven't had the chance to read the article you recommended but I will this weekend. Also, after you told me the difference in the number of holes in the crank (8 for industrial, and 6 for non-industrial) you prompted me to check mine. It appears that mine has 6 holes, which I would assume is non-industrial......but I am still a novice at these things.....still so much to learn...

 

[heminut]

Just in case you're looking at running a manual trans behind that engine, that crank isn't bored for a pilot bushing for the manual tranny input shaft. If that's the case you have one of two options, you can have the crank bored for the pilot bushing when you have the machine work done or you can get a roller bearing that presses into the register for the torque converter and shorten the the nose of the input shaft. If you're going to run an automatic then disregard all of this!

 

[sdcbowler]

Just in case you're looking at running a manual trans behind that engine, that crank isn't bored for a pilot bushing for the manual tranny input shaft. If that's the case you have one of two options, you can have the crank bored for the pilot bushing when you have the machine work done or you can get a roller bearing that presses into the register for the torque converter and shorten the the nose of the input shaft. If you're going to run an automatic then disregard all of this!

Heminut,
Thanks for the additional information. I will definitely be running an automatic transmission.

 

[sdcbowler]

Ran into an issue this weekend while assembling my engine. Wanted to tap into the vast knowledge here in the forum. I installed the cam and the crank with no problems. Was able to rotate them both. I then began to add the pistons. After each piston, I rotated the crank to ensure all was ok. The more pistons I added, the more resistance I felt. I figured this was due to the increased friction of the piston rings against the cylinder walls, so I continued.
By the time all eight pistons were installed, I could not rotate the crank to save my life. The crank bolt is supposed to be torqued to 135 ft-lbs. Even after reaching that value, the crank still did not rotate. Now, I knew something was terribly wrong. I removed all the pistons and started over again......same results. Next, I loosened the nuts one rod at a time and tried again to rotate the crank. Eventually, I was successful in rotating the crank.......but the rod nuts were not torqued. The bearings given to me were .010 undersize. After my investigation, I concluded the bearings are not the correct size. Unless I am mistaken, .010 undersize means the outside diameter of the bearing is the same, but the inside is a smaller diameter to compensate for grinding the crank journals. I don't believe this was done to my crank.
So now, I am unsure as to whether I should go to stock bearings, or .010 oversized bearings, which have the same inside diameter, but more material on the outside. What is the consensus of the forum.
Also, Engine is a 426 wedge which came with a 440 cast crank. The machine shop that did all the preliminary work, here in San Diego, California has long been out of business, so I can't seek their advice. I do miss the establishment as they did good work and was always willing to offer good advice and support.

Thanks...

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You are correct .010 brgs are the same out side diameter but are .010 thicker to work with the crank being cut .010 smaller , if the crank is not cut down you need std brgs . I always use plastigage when assembling to check for correct clearance , the other possible issue is if the caps are reversed the oil slot should point up to oil the cam & cylinder walls

 

[sdcbowler]

You are correct .010 brgs are the same out side diameter but are .010 thicker to work with the crank being cut .010 smaller , if the crank is not cut down you need std brgs . I always use plastigage when assembling to check for correct clearance , the other possible issue is if the caps are reversed the oil slot should point up to oil the cam & cylinder walls

Yes. I did verify the caps were in the correct orientation along with the oil slot. Thanks for the support.

 

[70chall440]

You should be able to measure a main with the bearings installed and then measure the crank journals.

 

[sdcbowler]

You should be able to measure a main with the bearings installed and then measure the crank journals.

Thank you, Sir...

 

[70chall440]

My last comment probably came off as a bit cynical, I apologize I was just thinking out load.