More cooling for my T/A

[moparlee]

I looked around. Can’t find any with correct factory markings in stock.

Tony's Parts has high quality reproduction 7 blade fans in stock.
Store - All Reproduction Parts | Tonys Parts

 

[Challenger RTA]

Mopar Car Guy covers other things to be checked. This came to mind as I was reading his post. I have seen the water pump impeller rust to nothing.also come off or loose. Check the simple things first. Stick a screw driver in the water pump. IF THE THERMOSTAT STICK OPEN.THE ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT! HAD IT HAPPEN to me. Sorry for the caps. Very important point water doesn't stay in radiator long enough to cool down.

 

[VillaTA]

Fan is definitely 7 blade. Coolant is clear and clean and is proper mix. I installed sender for water temp and ran wire. I cannot find a close hot wire for the power. Any thoughts? All of my wires are bundled up in the harness at the base of the column. I’d hate to cut into those. Are there any others that I could splice into? I installed the gauge just past the vent levers toward the passenger side. I noticed that My radio is not hooked up either. Not even a wire run near it.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Challenger RTA]

You can pick up a keyed hot at the fuse box acc terminal.

 

[MoparCarGuy]

You may want to double-check that fan. The picture you posted appears to be a 5-blade fan. Below is your picture resized and lightened to see better. Hard to tell for sure from the pic but that large gap area sure looks like the 5-blade fan. That gap allow easier access to install/remove the fan bolts.
I run the 5-blade as that is what was original to my A/C car but with a viscous fan clutch versus direct drive spacer.

Also, a picture of the fuse panel accessory (ACC) blade terminal plus two other accessory feeds that may work for you.
Double-check each of these to make sure you only have power when the key is in the RUN or ACC position. The RED feed connector may be HOT all of the time from the Battery. If so, do not use it. The YELLOW feed connector should be switched HOT only with the key switch.
It is recommended that you put an inline fuse holder in the feed to the temperature gauge. It may have come with one. Check the gauge directions about fuse size.

 

[VillaTA]

Another angle. Weird that the previous pic looked so much like. 5 blade

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Another angle. Weird that the previous pic looked so much like. 5 blade

Yep, you were right all along. 7-blade fan. You should really be moving a lot of air even at idle. Now we need to see that temperature!

 

[DaveBob]

In my every present quest to tinker with and improve the reliability of my car, I was considering adding a new aluminum radiator. I do feel like my car seems hot. I don’t know how hot cause I haven’t installed a water temp gauge. But after 30 mins or so I get a warm firewall. And after some mild driving the other day, I could hear some pressure coming out of my rad overflow hose stub (my overflow hose is not installed currently). This motor has less than 1,000 miles on it since being rebuilt. Unfortunately, I don’t know who did the work or what components were used. I guess I just have some anxiety about doing damage.
I read about the factory shroud not fitting Champion radiators. I’m just looking for an easy upgrade. Any thoughts on brand suggestions is appreciated.

Yes, get a temp gauge. You may not have a problem. That said, there's one thing I didn't see (or just missed) in the advice - ignition advance. I had some overheating problems. But, after checking all the boxes with respect to new radiator, correct thermostat, correct fan and shroud, etc., etc., the one thing that helped the most was advancing the timing just shy of engine knock. To over-simplify why this helps, I got a more complete burn in the cylinder, producing power, and less of a burn wasted as heat. As for the optimal amount of advance, in degrees, a lot of factors affect that, so you may have ten different answers for ten different cars. For me, I wanted to reach that almost-knocking point at the same time as total mechanical advance at WOT was around 34-36 degrees. For both my Dart and Cuda, I ended up with 10 degrees initial, 35 degrees at WOT, and 50 degrees at cruise. For my Dart, with a milder 340 and lower compression, I was able to run 89 octane fuel. For the 340 in my Cuda, with a little more compression I needed 93 octane fuel. Advancing either car another degree or two would cause knock. Lastly, running a little lower concentration of Glycol helps cooling, since water is about 1.5 times better in removing the heat. But the glycol serves other purposes, such as protection from corrosion and freezing. I like to run about 40% glycol with distilled water and mix the two well, before pouring them into the radiator.

 

[VillaTA]

Yep, you were right all along. 7-blade fan. You should really be moving a lot of air even at idle. Now we need to see that temperature!

View attachment 94900

I hope to have that number tomorrow!

 

[VillaTA]

After about a 10-15 minute drive and sitting and idling in 85 degree heat. This is as high as my temp got. Any thoughts, is this too high? Motor only has about 800 miles or so on a rebuild.

 

[Challenger RTA]

That's not bad .depends what thermostat is in it. Should not go any higher unless you are beating it. it should cool back down. There was or is a 5/8" shaft water pump For the L/A motor.Police package.I think I got mine on Amazon? www.amazon.com/Milodon-16350-Performance-Aluminum-Standard/dp/B002XKPDD4/ref=rvi_sccl_2/145-0260724-8687606?pd_rd_w=IlFY8&content-id=amzn1.sym.f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_p=f5690a4d-f2bb-45d9-9d1b-736fee412437&pf_rd_r=BC6YF7JSWJJGSXKR5DCV&pd_rd_wg=WrKpT&pd_rd_r=c16d70e1-1f21-4331-b2ed-c1af3d7d8954&pd_rd_i=B002XKPDD4&psc=1

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Now that your gauge is installed, you can add Redline Water Wetter and see if it drops the temperature a few more degrees.

 

[VillaTA]

Now that your gauge is installed, you can add Redline Water Wetter and see if it drops the temperature a few more degrees.

Do I need to drain any coolant or just add to it?

 

[MoparCarGuy]

Do I need to drain any coolant or just add to it?

Add

 

[Wyldbee]

After about a 10-15 minute drive and sitting and idling in 85 degree heat. This is as high as my temp got. Any thoughts, is this too high? Motor only has about 800 miles or so on a rebuild.

If it stays there you're golden, you're right around peak thermal efficiency.

Have you ever poured SALT into a pot of boiling water?

I wouldn't put "water wetter" in my cooling system.

 

[chargerdon]

First, according to Motor Trend magazine, glycol based antifreeze has a thermal efficiency about 20 percent less than plain water. So a 50/50 mixture of water and glycol based antifreeze is about 10% less efficient than plain water.

However, plain water is not a good idea as, yes, it is true that most antifreeze solutions also contain anti-corrosion inhibitors that IS NECESSARY in our engines to prevent corrosion, however, that can be added separately.

Third, absolutely a 50/50 mix of glycol and water raises the boiling point to 223 F, however, in my case that is a big SO WHAT as my engine will begin to run poorly at much above 215 degrees and will stall out at anything above 225-230, AND, the boiling point of water is already raised by having it under pressure...i.e. like a pressure cooker. A 15 lb cap will raise the boiling point to 245 F by itself. So, again this is a big...so what !!!

With the above in mind, and not wanting to go to a high flow pump, or smaller pulley to increase pump rpms, or a larger radiator, or add on electric fans, and still wanting to be able to drive the car in parades and living in a NC warmer climate, i switched my Challenger with a stroker 408 to a 90% water/10% glycol antifreeze solution. Before doing so i tested the car with the 50/50 mixture by driving it to normal temperature (190 degree thermostat) and then letting it idle in drive on an 80 degree day. It took it about 15 mins for the temp to rise to 215 the point where it starts to "run funny". (did this by checking the engine temp with my infrared temperature gun aimed at the goose neck of the intake manifold. Then after letting it cool draining out all of the mixture at the radiator and adding water, then running it for 10 mins and again draining the radiator. Did this in lieu of cracking open the engine block plug to drain it. I presume i got about 90 % out. Then i filled it again with plain water and using a bulb test it read about 28 degrees for the freeze point, so i guess i got most of the glycol antifreeze out. i then ran the car. drained some of the radiator and added back in some antifreeze until my bulb test showed about 24 degree freezing point. Good enough for NC except in the dead of february.

Then i ran the car to the normal temp, and put it in drive and let it idle till it hit 215 on the goose neck.. This time it took about 20-22 mins so about a 10-15% improvement. Still that's not long enough to run a 30 min parade. So, wanting more anti-corrosion protection and better cooling i googled the products for improved cooling...(there is at least 10 of them on the market) and including pricing i selected Royal Purple Purple Ice additive and put it 1 container of it supposedly good for up to 20qt radiator. Did my drive to normal temp and them into Drive and let it idle. This time it took about 25-30 mins until it reached 215 at the goose neck. So again an improvement... Still a long parade in the summer lie the 4th of July parade in Raleigh would be worrisome if not an outright problem.

I dont know if Red Line is better or worse than Royal Purple Purple Ice, but, ill be they all help some, tho short of their advertisements.

 

[jft70]

Hello, I'm going to add a coolant recovery system for my 1970 challenger. The 1973 74 system to my correct 1970 2998960 radiator 22". My question when I use this system what Is the correct 2 way radiator cap to allow this system to work? Anyone have exact part numbers

Thank you

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Hello, I'm going to add a coolant recovery system for my 1970 challenger. The 1973 74 system to my correct 1970 2998960 radiator 22". My question when I use this system what Is the correct 2 way radiator cap to allow this system to work? Anyone have exact part numbers

Thank you

I use the O'Reilly Auto Parts 16# coolant recovery cap, part number "Murray 7616" with my coolant recovery setup. Works fine.