Water pump housing problem question

[challengingjab]

I have a 74 challenger that I am restoring. It has a 70 440 engine in it. When I bought it it had a passenger side lower radiator hose with a driver side lower water pump hose and a freakish hose across the bottom . I have purchased a water pump housing from a 68 with a passenger side lower hose . The problem is the 68 housing didn't have any hose barbs in it and it has 4 threaded holes and I am not sure which 2 are heater and which one is a temp sending unit port and what the 4th port is even for. I know the one in front of the mounting bolt is heater but not sure which of the other 3 are heater and temp sending unit and what to do with the 4th. all 3 are side by side behind and to the passenger side of the thermostat housing. if anyone can advise me I would appreciate the hehp.

 

[moparleo]

Can you give us a picture of what it looks like ?

 

[challengingjab]

I am kind of new at trying to post a picture but i will try. Ihave put barbs and fittings in holes but not sure it is right

 

[Chryco Psycho]

the heater hose nipples are the far left & the lower one in front of the bolt the other 2 can be used for the temp guage or just plugged which ever fit best for you

 

[challengingjab]

thanks Chryco Psycho.I put them the way you sugested but since the heater core leaked I took them off and pluged the ends of the hoses. For some reason the engine over heats .so I thought maybe I had them wrong. I did not use a by pass hose instead pluged the hoses. I wander if the 2 nipples have to have a by pass hose to allow for circulation. I had this engine in the car before restoration with the other pump housing and it did not heat up also whle radiator was out I had it changed from a 2 core to a 3 core. But I made a few additions when restoring the engine like a comp complete cam kit with a double row timing gear and chain set and heavy duty valve springs , the water pump housing, a set of summit headers and a up grade to the ignition and a new edelbrock carb. Now when Idling for 20 mins. it don't heat up but drive it for 10 mins. and it does. any ideas ?

 

[moparleo]

Did you replace the fan clutch ? Do you have a fan shroud?

 

[challengingjab]

Yes I have a shroud. I had to modify the mounting brackets though because the holes did not line up even though I ordered the corect shroud from Year One . And no I did not replace the fan clutch. I was told that it would cool beter if I would just delete the fan clutch and buy a spacer and a regular fan blade . but I have not done that yet. I am not sure what fan blade to buy and how long the spacer should be, Or how close to the radiator the fan should come. any suggestions ? and again thanks to all of you guys who are trying to help with this. you guys proably won't belive this but at one time I was a fair mechanic . But that was about 40 years ago and I haven't worked on much of anything in the last 30 years that was this tempramental. I just retired a while back and decided I wanted to get involved in muscle cars again because both of my sons are Mopar adicts. Its been a long time !! and most of my life I was a chevy SB man. not to much experince with Mopar BB . And my sons live 2 states away. I have now even with the problems I have had fell in love with my Challenger and looking for a long relation with Her.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

you could have a number of things going on , First the clutch fan is a far better choice IF the clutch is good , the fan should be tight when hot . Second make sure the fan is on the right way with the blades cupped towards the engine , did you use the same water pump , a high volume may help ? . I suspect the ign upgrade is where the heat is coming from , , disconnect the vacuum advance & leave it that way , most dist use about a 20* mech timing curve so you want initial timing @16* with total timing at 36* make sure the carb is not lean , check the plugs or install a wideband O2

 

[moparleo]

Just remember that you are still dealing with 40 year old technology. Your experience may be with a GM product but all of the principals are the same. They may have different tune specs but what makes an engine tick is the same regardless of brand. Just pretend that you are still working on a Chevy and can't understand why everything seems to work better (Mopar)

 

[challengingjab]

I will try some of the ideas when I get back . at present I am going to have to be out of town for a couple of weeks so I wont be able to work on it but thanks for the ideas. I will post again when I get a chance to start on it again. thanks again.