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Just make one… grind thru the skin along the edge and use a cut off wheel for the rest… use the old piece as a template for the patch. I use a wet rag to cool the metal when it gets hot to avoid warpage when cutting, and when stitch welding in the new piece. The skin is just folded over the...

I think that is a support strap for the back of the radio.

The dash gauge vr only puts out five or so volts to the gauges… and is not even part of the ammeter circuit iirc. This is not your problem. I believe the ammeter gets full charging circuit power. To get 30-40 volts in the car you may have a short to ground with one of the alternator field...

Beautiful! What engine & trans did it have originally? I also have a 71 R/T; originally a 340, 4spd car, but unfortunately the original drivetrain was missing. Now it’s a 440 with a Tremec.

Did you ask the machine shop to machine the lifter bores, when you dropped it off?

There must be a way to check the motor with a multimeter. Don’t risk an under dash wiring harness fire.

You can break it down a bit further by engine size. For example: I read only 313 RTs came with the 340/4 spd, in 1971.

Thanks for the correct info.

I do pretty much everything except machining the engine, and the thing I hate the most…UPHOLSTERY. If I never do front buckets or a headliner again it’s ok by me.

I believe the drivers side motor mount on a 340 is the same as a 318. The drivers side mounting ears on a 360 block are closer together by 1/2, or 5/8, of an inch. The 318/340 bracket will leave a big gap at the rear mounting holes. You can get a 360 bracket, or make a spacer for the rear...

That does look nice.

The Sniper has full adjustment on the air fuel ratio. You need to adjust the afr to the optimum for the rpm/load. Go to the initial set up menu and make sure the engine parameters are properly set up 8 cyl, 440 ci, mild cam, etc. This should be good enough to start, but it will probably be...

Update for me. Thanks Challenger RTA! I used a small probe to expand the connectors and this seems to have solved my problem.

Anyway, the column connector is another place to check. Bad connections here will mimic a faulty ignition switch.

Sorry, just trying to help. I must of misunderstood your first post: " You put the key in ignition and turn to go start and it sometime is dead as a door nail. Not even ability to turn over. No accessory of any kind and cabin light wont turn on when door open.".

I am currently having this problem. I believe it is faulty connections in the column harness connector. Because when everything is dead if I even just touch the connector everything works. I tried to wiggle the wires individually but have been unable to determine the specific problem wire...

I agree, I recently helped install an ACC carpet. It was super thin; I could see daylight through it while holding it up to the sun. It is nowhere near the thickness and quality of factory carpet. I’m wondering if they outsourced them to China. Also, it wasn’t molded accurately at all; big...

For others that may read this when starting an engine for the first time: I like to “static time” the engine so that it starts instantly. This works great and usually the engine doesn’t even make a full revolution before it runs. Bring the engine to 8-10 degrees btdc on the compression...

Also, the sender may be out of spec. for your gauge. I recently did a magnum swap (rebuilt engine) in my old Ramcharger. I used the Magnum oil sender but my gauge barely registered. I put my old used sender back on and then my gauge could read it. Same for the temp sender too. Btw, they...

You can feed a length of fuel hose in thru the spark plug hole and rotate it by hand until it stops. Mark the balancer where it happens to line up with zero. Then turn it the opposite direction until it stops and mark it. TDC is exactly between these two marks. You could also use a wood...