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Sounds like you are pulling the transmission, no matter which way you go. I will offer my very good condition 340 cast crank convertor, for your concideration. It is a true factory high stall. Rated at 2400 give or take engine output. Your convertor is a mid stall, approx 1800rpm.

This doesn't really clear up anything for me, to be able to help you. No weight added. Does that mean stock cast crank balance? Does that mean zero balance? Adding high compression pistons (10.5) does not make the need for counter balance go away with the cast crank. All we know for sure is...

Did you rebuild the pump? I once did and put the vanes in backwards. No pressure. Took it apart and flipped them, and I wasn't the dumb guy anymore.

Ok. So balanced with no flywheel or converter attached, we have to assume what? Stock 4.22 counter balance, or zeroed? Until you know, we are all guessing.

There's a dirty, bent vent tube one on ebay for cheap, but to quote joe biden, and I usually wouldn't "Don't" I find that the 71 air bleed carbs work better than the later ones, but maybe I got lucky, or later ones are just too lean.

Can you put a number on it?

I thought I had several, but all I found were ones like this. Correct, except the wire on an E body is 18-24" long. ( I didn't pull from the dash assembly to measure)

Converter weights are not a straight weight measurment. There is no way that the correct 340 ones weigh 4.22oz or that a 360 one weighs almost 20. There is some kind of math using circumference. Beyond my need of knowledge. I do know it was exspensive to have mallory metal to zero balance...

If you are pulling the trans, do you also want to upgrade to the correct high stall converter? When the engine was rebuilt, did they tell you anything about the balance, or compression? That converter shown is available. Shipping is what it is. Cast crank 340 convertor weights are not common.

Flex plate is clocked, so converter only goes on one way. 77 360 converter got me thinking, its only a mid stall. Not a high stall. Last year of true high stall i think is 75. The mounting lugs are different, so easy to tell. Here is my cast 340 converter with 2 small metal square by the...

The direct connection tech sheet was for modifing a flywheel for a counter weight engine. So the reference for drilling holes in the flywheel, means you have to add that weight on the opposite side for a converter. Our old torque flite expert (Mr Pat Blais) had a pattern to position for welding...

That weight is way to big. Looks like the one piece 360 weight. (Early 360 are dual weights) The cast 340 uses the smallest of counter weights for any mopar. For starters, twist that off and run none until you can weld the right one on. I will get the spec from the direct connection manual...

Thinking isn't knowing, so I went and looked. 3/8 head. Integral washer. Tapered self tapping lag with fine thread. I went looking for a clean one amongst the clean bolts. Anchor head marking, scallop under washer.

Those are going to look nice in your 68 malibu, LOL.

I hope you will add a sway bar. The process of redoing the original control arm pivot is so easy, that I would think it could all be performed while cleaning the rest of your suspension. But yes, you can add a tab to either.

With sway bar tabs or without? If without, yes they will fit your car. They have a profile bump on the arm face which would require notching the aftermarket sway bar tabs , before welding on. With no sway bar, they will work fine. The seller discription ,while accurrate, is also inaccurate...

The shaft through the floor looks to be upside down also. Maybe a picture of that area?

Sample of cover.

Here is the companion part you need for these bumperettes. https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/threads/1970-1971-barracuda-cuda-front-bumperettes.35684/ I'm offering this support for only $50. I had to straighten it. So maybe a mark from the press or vise. It is straight as you can see from...

I would still reccommend 3.73 gears, with 3.55 at a minimum.