1970CUDAAAR
Member
I bought the correct spring for the hood and wish to know the best way to correct my warped AAR hood?
AAR Fiberglass Hood
- Thread starter 1970CUDAAAR
- Start date
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Please post pictures of the warpness. Usually fiberglass can be reshaped with weight in the proper area (might have to flip the hood upside down) and additional bracing.
plymth70
Member
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I leave the car in the sun for a while. Place a blanket on it and then place a small blk head on it and push it into the garage to cool down. remove head and blanket after cooling. stays in shape for a while. Got it from a guy that worked at a dealer back in the day.
1970CUDAAAR
Member
Someone managed to remove the worping in the hood. This by introducing some metal bar in the hood to keep it straight.
Hi - I also have the following queations fo you guys!!
Where can i find the little botton that adjust the daily odometer in the speedometer cadran.
I bought the following part from Year One (part for the tach:
Part no. L3B463 - Tach harness-engine side
in the hope that it could reslove my tach not functionning. I honestly dont know what is the purpose of this part. anyone can tell me.
Thanks!
1970CUDAAAR
Member
je managed to delete the whorping by introduction à métal bar inside the rail on bath side.
heminut
Well-Known Member
Probably something that should have been done from the very start!
1970CUDAAAR
Member
MY ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED BY INTRODUCINH A METAL BAR IN BOTH SIDE OF THE HOOD.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
@1970CUDAAAR
Can you share some pictures of your process and finished product?
Can you share some pictures of your process and finished product?
skip69donzi
Well-Known Member
Please share, I’m about to begin the process of making a form mold of my fender edges on my AAR so to have a ledger to make the hood edges permanent to that shape. I’ve got in mind to install a truss Rod system on both sides to tune the hood to that shape permanently. Would like to share notes if you care to. Thanks!
marksmopars
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I also would like to see how you addressed this issue, as others said correct springs will still warp the hood. My solution on my T/A was to take the springs off and get a stick. It’s been 25 years since I redid it even if it is less than ideal.
1970CUDAAAR
Member
In my case - metal bars have been introduction on each side of the hood. Yhis has been done about 4 mths ago and Stiller holding straight.
skip69donzi
Well-Known Member
Are the bars hidden in the hood or external? I’m about to approach this repair myself. Thinking that I can open the two stringer boxes and put the steel stock inside and fiberglass in place and then close the stringers to the appearance of oem rough finish on the bottom as was from factory. I’m going to mold the fender edges so to have an accurate ledger as a jig so that I have a solid reference to form the hood edges to as I work the warpage out of the hood and then make that shape permanent. At that point is when the steel stock will be placed in the stringers and fiberglassed in place to hold the shape. I’ve studied this process over a long period of time. I believe this process will work.
Last edited:
Katfish
Well-Known Member
That's the way the aftermarket fixed it.
Red circles are rivets, to show the length of the metal inside the channel.
Mine in an AAR brand, I still don't use the springs.
https://postimages.org/]
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Red circles are rivets, to show the length of the metal inside the channel.
Mine in an AAR brand, I still don't use the springs.
https://postimages.org/]
[/url]
skip69donzi
Well-Known Member
Yup that’s a solid approach and leave the springs off until showtime. I’ll post my progress here on this thread as things developThat's the way the aftermarket fixed it.
Red circles are rivets, to show the length of the metal inside the channel.
Mine in an AAR brand, I still don't use the springs.
https://postimages.org/]
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